Question:
I’m trying to install a 2006 Yamaha FZ1N digital speedometer on my 2001 Yamaha FZS1000 Fazer. Both models use the same 16-pin (2x8) connector, but the pin configurations and the wire colors seem to differ.

I have scoured the web trying to find something to help me and have spent many hours trying to figure out the wiring diagrams in the service manuals . However, as I’m new to this stuff, it turned out to be a bit more difficult than I thought. The only diagram I’ve found for the pin layout is for the FZS1000, which I’ve attached below. As much as I understand from the wiring diagrams in the service manual, I believe this pin layout seems to be correct.

 Let me know if this link works?? I have never posted a post on a forum before.
  FZS1000 maping.png (Size: 104.62 KB / Downloads: 130)

I can’t seem to figure out the FZ1 2006 pin layout, though. I was really hoping it would be plug-and-play, but here we are!
Could someone provide a detailed pinout for the FZ1N speedometer, including wire colors and functions? If anyone has experience with this swap, how do I rewire the FZS1000 harness to work with the FZ1N speedometer? Are there any signal compatibility issues I should look out for (e.g., tachometer or speed sensor)?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Talking screens here. 

I've got the power bronze tall screen and it's not too bad. Got one with the adjustable flippy thing on, but it's really bassy for me.
Anyone tried one of these?     

Test pic.     

Hi All,

My bike isn't firing on all cylinders.
At first cyl 1 didnt fire from cold sometimes. I swapped the spark plug cap with cyl 4 to try isolate the problem. Left it for a couple of days. Then when I started the bike cyl 3 was not firing.

I've now checked ignition coil resistance, spark plug cap & lead resistance and they were all normal. When I plugged everything back together, cyl 2 & 3 were not firing. I then swapped the plug caps around some more but still cyl 2 & 3 not firing.

However, if I pull the plug caps off the spark plugs a bit so that they are loose, the cylinders fire!

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
CountFazer

morning Gents 
Albert from Spain with my new toy Yamaha fzs1000 2003 (full restoration is done)
hope i can help you and you can help me.
thanks 

Was in September actually but I have no idea what this is - was. Never seen a splat like it or that colour

     

Tyre change time, and tried to take the front wheel out.
Spindle requires a 14mm hex, didn't have one in my extensive tool kit (former mechanic).
No problem, I'll just use what Yamaha provide.
Now, I bought this bike secondhand, but unless someone has taken out the tool for the front wheel spindle, then I presume that Yamaha don't supply a toolkit that you can take the front wheel off.
My flabber has never been so ghasted.

Popped down to a local dealer first thing Monday morning last to look at a part I'm almost click and collected purchased the previous evening. Pleased I didn't as when I got there, a sign was on the door " No longer trading". So, off I went to another of that companies showrooms less than a mile away to find the staff all hanging around the back door, coffee and cigarettes on the go. One of them blocked my entry and told access was denied. I asked how long for to be told Id be informed. So I returned back to base and kept my money. Good thing too, as I later read they'd gone into administration. This is not the only one I've read of in the last few weeks. I suspect sales have stagnated further. Are the manufacturers making bikes that people want, or are they getting too over sophisticated, like the modern day motor cars?

Greetings to everyone!
After just a day of not riding my '2000 FZS 600 developed misfire on 2 and 3 : idle revs are lower, power loss and does not pick up revs like before. It has spark but when removing the cap from cylinder 2 or 3 at idle nothing changes but  when from 1 or 4 it dies immediately . I cleaned the carbs (didn't split them, only the jets and diaphragms so the mixture and synchronization settings remained the same) but it did not help. Need to mention that pilot screws are turned more than 2 turns out like the book says, on 3 particularly it looks turned out about all the way and both 2 and 3 were running a bit rich with black ish  spark plugs. I never messed them before and rode the bike for 17 thousand km. But when you inject some quick start to carbs 2,3 revs go up a bit but if to 1,4 it just dies.
I am sure I could smell petrol on the spark plug 3 and there's definitely enough gas in float chamber. 
Now the electrics: I tried old and new spark plugs, the coil resistance is correct, the plugs boots too, swapping 'new' used coil does nothing.

Maybe someone had a similar problem?

Earlier in the summer a few times after starting it did not run evenly as if on 3 cylinders, but after warming up or at some point it just fixed itself and I thought it was the faulty old plugs.

Hello, the ABS on my 2012 FZ1-SA has been playing up. When I start the bike it seems fine, the light goes off, but after a bit of riding it will start engaging at the latest touch of the lever, or sometimes releasing the brakes before activating again - scary. After a couple of hard squeezes the ABS light comes on and it stops working completly, leaving me with normal brakes.
Restarting the bike reset the whole thing, it starts working again and then stopes. I can't tell if it is an issue with the wheel senser or the pump, but until I have it fixed I want to disable the ABS as I'd rather have non-ABS brakes then a moody ABS where I never know what to expect. I can't tell which is the main ABS fuse from the manual, so i'd be very grateful if someone points me in the right direction.

Thanks,
Bikebud.