As new RST Tractech Evo3 Leather 2 Piece Suit:
Same spec as later Evo 4/5.
Full Suit (£220)
Jacket only (£110)
Pants only (£120
Jacket's labelled UK48/ EU58 (Measured @ 48inch min chest/ 50inch max chest)
Pants labelled UK38/EU48 2XL (Measured @ 38inch min waist / 40inch max waist)
I'm a 50inch chest & jacket is snug on me.
I'm a 40inch waist & pants are snug on me, I expect the leather will give a bit when its broken in etc.
Jacket:
Concertina stretch panel in shoulder blade/kidney/waist hem area.
Kevlar stretch panels in armpit/bicep area.
Pants:
Perforated airflow panels on thigh frontal area, Kevlar stretch panels in groin & rear of knee/calf area.
Concertina stretch panel across lower back/waist area.
Elasticated waist band.
Waist=38inch min / 40inch max.
Hip=44inch.
Inside Leg=25inch.
Imho sizing charts are mostly way off, but RST are pretty close to sizes shown on labels.
Exact measurements shown in pics.
Only worn em a couple of times, so leather still needs breaking in & will give with use
I'd rather not post due to weight of 12LB (Jacket & Pants)
So prefer to wait for a buyer that can collect, try on before purchase etc.
Leather & both knee sliders are unmarked, all zips/velcro are in as new condition.
Jacket has OEM removable armour in shoulder/elbows (back protector not included).
Pants have OEM removable armour in hips, knee sliders (included)
I'm realistic & don't expect a potential buyer to want or need both jacket & pants, so willing to split if required.
Priced to sell, no offers please, these are cheap & as new, only selling as I can't get on with heavy leather bike gear.
Plenty more pics available via email as forum has a 4 pic max limit.
I didn't ride at all last year, just had too much on, other life and work stuff got in the way of getting the Fazer up and running,
So I've been busy getting her ready for MOT on the 1st of April, new tyres, brakes refurbed, service ect
This is my second fzs600 and first time with this one changing chain and sprockets , I got the new 12mm front sprocket nut the other day as this still had the old 9mm fitted (1998 bike with 16000miles on her and no sign of output shaft thread damage) and the book says 70nm torque setting, would you recommend sticking to that or anything different?
Also rear sprocket bolts they say 60nm, sounds about right huh?
Decent pair of 21 litre panniers, have a more robust plastic construction than the e22 cases that replaced them. Very useful if you're not bringing the kitchen sink along on tour and not much wider than the handlebars. Fits the Fazer's side rack setup and older Fazer 600 wingracks. Panniers come with two keys and have the usual marks from light usage.
Looking for a bit of advice or maybe a part if it ends up that way (will make a separate post in the proper category if it does.)
Had a major service done on my bike and following that the clutch started slipping under hard acceleration, lower threshold when colder (i.e. took less to make slip when less heat in the engine/box). Adjusted the cable to have proper play in it, have drained and replaced the oil with motul 10w40 and still no dice. Bit the bullet and ordered plates and springs to do the jobs lot while it was apart and found this.
Had my eureka moment until I took the pressure plate off and found this
So now I'm torn, in an ideal world I'd like to get a replacement inner basket but I can't find one for love nor money but on the other hand i'm wondering if 5 springs/bolts is still sufficient and just chuck the new plates and springs in and be done with it.
Cheers for the add I’ve owned my fzs1000 for just over a year and love it, I usually do not keep bikes so long get bored quick so I’m doing well with this one . Stuart from West Yorkshire
Afternoon guys and girls, hope everyone's well.
So, my bikes been off the road for quite some time, had a couple of runs out on it but only done about 500-600 miles from memory in 18 months.
Yesterday I decided to dust it off and went for a 100 or so mile ride and maybe 3 or 4 times, when under moderately hard acceleration, the clutch slipped, I've noticed a smell every now and again as well and it definitely feels a tiny bit down on power, which after looking are all symptoms of clutch slip so I'm guessing it's time to change the plates.
Bikes on 54k miles, clutch has never been done that I am aware of.
Now, I might sound stupid here, but is it best to change both sets of plates at the same time, or just the friction plates?
I'm looking at the EBC plates, but are cheaper ones going to be much of a muchness or is it worth paying out for EBC?
I'm going to do the cable at the same time as well, just for peace of mind and similarly is their a particular brand other than OEM worth looking at?
Don't want to scrimp, but also trying to save what I can where I can.
And if I'm not mistaken it's best practice to leave all the plates soaking in engine oil overnight before fitting?
And lastly, do the bolts/springs/basket need doing as well or are they generally fine to re-use?
Be my first time tackling a job like this, so want to gather as much information as possible first... I appreciate any help/advice/tips!
It felt absolutely bloody great being back out on the old girl!
Is there actually a place to install bobbins on the rear of the fz6 as am struggling to find a slot for them? or are people using those paddock stands with L grips on the swingarms?