hopefully ive uploaded a picture of my front disc, it looks initially like watermarks but its not , im not sure what it is hence why im posting to gain your thoughts , best theory so far is its age related marks on one disc only but both sides of that disc and only the central holes and marks are clearly centrifugal in nature , braking is as powerful as always no drop of in performance and there is nothing to feel ,cant detect any deformation , i actually mostly removed the marks with 400 wet n dry took it for an hours spin, in the dry, the marks are back again following that. bike has only done 32k miles and im not a heavy breaker by nature but i didnt have the bike from new but it only had 16 k when i got it so ive done half of those miles , theres no splits or cracking around any of the holes so there not stress marks , but what the cause is i cant figure?
Hi after nearly 5 years idle in the garage the bike is running great apart from the revs dipping periodically when idling. The question is What to try first?
Am thinking
1. Air filter
2. Plugs
3. Leads
4. Carb balance (not by me)
To be honest I think I changed the plugs and leads before the storage period so I fear it may be a carb thing which is a bit beyond my skill set.
Hi there rejoined the forum, was a member back in the mid 2000s when I had a 98 model and enjoyed a few rideouts with some of the lads in Kent.The old Fazer got traded in for a Tenere single when they came out in ‘08 but missed a 4 cylinder bike so got an ancient FJ1200 for a few years followed by the current more ancient BMW K100.
Just bought a 2000 model for my son whose due to take his DAS and I’m refreshing my knowledge of the fazer with all the useful info on here and of course riding it until the day he passes.
I have been spoilt by other bikes with hand guards keeping the worst off your hands in winter
There is a confusing number of ‘universal’ handguards which say they are ok for the FZ6 SA but most seem to replace the bar ends which are balanced by Yamaha I guess
Any experience on adding handguards and any difference with different bar ends?
Free to a Foccer (apart from covering the postage - £12?)
Had this a long time up in the garage roof as a backup, but now taking up valuable space.
It's from a Boxeye 600 in that rare blue colour.
Make no mistake, this is currently a Frankenstein fairing - there are huge splits down both sides of the fairing. Amazingly, there are however no chunks missing out of it and all the inner plastic mounting points are both present and undamaged - not sure how that's possible(?!). The right person could no doubt repair it.
My fairing lugs are pretty damaged - several broken in half and it was suggested I try plastic welding
Brought the tool ready for a winter project and it seems mainly for repairing cracks rather than creating new plastic
I want to repair the lugs by creating new plastic which I can drill fixing holes through which sort of requires me to sit the fairing on something while I add plastic to the broken lug- was thinking glass sheet but will the new plastic stick to that?
I haven't started this job yet, but looking at pics the original bearings were old style cup and cone. Suppliers like Marksman only sell a replacement tapered roller bearing. Converting to tapered on my old Fireblade didn't work out too well, as needed regular adjustment. What's best, source the original style or go with tapered.
