Hi Fokkers, I got the old girl out of the garage yesterday and when I turned the ignition on it was dead, I tried a couple of times and then gave up and ordered a new battery. New battery fitted, same problem, I checked the main fuse and it seemed fine but I replaced it with the spare anyway. When I went to turn the key the next time it's like something shifted in the lock and everything came alive and the bike started fine. I put the old battery back in and again it was fine. So I suspect there's something worn in the ignition lock, I've put a load of ACF50 down it and it's nice and smooth now. Does anyone have any advice, is it a case of flushing the lock through with loads of WD40 or can you take the lock off and clean up the internals?
Update: I've flushed it through with some dry lube and switch cleaner which will hopefully do the trick, it doesn't look like removing the lock is an easy proposition.
Im selling my upgraded Fzs 1000 s 54 plate. This bike must be one of the best in hte country. 2008 R1 front end with 6 piston calipers, American made steering stem and british made staeering head bearings, Full Monty, Ais removed, R6 rear shock. Carbon mudguard, Carbon rear hugger, Carbon Chain guard, Carbon rad covers, Stainless radiator guard, Renthal bars, Stainless bar ends, Two seasts, one is cut down, Led tailights with in built Indicators, Mivv titanium Exhaust with Carbon Can. Open to serious offers... Going online soon so i thought i would put it on here first, for te foccers
This winter I bought a non running Thundercat with the intention to fix it and flip it. But once I got it running I realised what a great bike it is! I'm definitely keeping it. Two months later my son bought a Fz8n and last month my wife bought a Fzs600. They are all great bikes and very similar to each other. Many tips to be found on this forum and so much knowledge. Thanks!
Should I be that fussy about what I use, It will be OAT but do I need the stuff just for bikes like Motul motocool OAT - the red one. The last time I did it I used halfords own OAT.
Hi guys new to this site just fitted a gear indicator to my 2003 fazer600 but can't find the crank position wire, I've google it looked at my haynes manual but to no avail any advice would be appreciated
Hi folks,i have a question for you, what are you getting on rear shock when setting rear rider sag?I have had a total refurb of my oem shock and was expecting it to be well within parameters.I got 525 mm with rear wheel off the floor for the static sag the sat on bike whilst holding wall for support whilst my friend pressed down on rear and measured the lifted rear and measured .both measurements added and the halved gave 472.5mm,take this from 525mm static which equals 52.5 mm!This was on max preload as well.Im told range should be between 35-45mm so im a bit out.I weigh 14st 3lb with out gear and say 15st with gear so well under what shock is capable of.Am I missing something?Thanks.
just bought a 05 Fazer had a few runs out on it, I am impressed with the bike only gripe is the front suspension, not that this will stop me enjoying the new toy, may be of to Ireland for a week later this year, any ideas to make the front suspension more comfortable
The time has come, I don't ride enough to justify keeping my bike, and I'm heading back to New Zealand. And it would probably cost more than the bike is worth to ship it over
and get it set up in NZ.
Full service history, MOT until May 2026.
Brembo master brake cylinder - which makes a big difference to the feel of the brakes.
Fully adjustable Ohlins rear shock, heated grips, front led indicators, Scottoiler (currently needs a refill).
New gears about 1000 miles ago, although there is a slip in second gear in the higher
rev range, this can be avoided by careful riding or fixed if you really wanted to.
Datatag immobiliser fitted, Ivans jet kit fitted by Mike.
Micron exhaust, I have the original exhaust if you also want it. Michelin PR2 tyres with plenty of tread,
I think they are better than the newer tyres out there, they certainly last longer.
Small crash bungs on the frame - untested
New brake pads last year, although I haven't ridden the bike much.
£1500
My father in laws
Yamaha FJR1300. 2020 Ultimate edition.
Just under 20k miles, and looks like it's done 1/4 of that, it's 1 owner, showroom condition, and owned by a passionate enthusiast. (this is 3rd FJR in 15 years)
Recent tyres with less than 200 miles on em, Just MOT and serviced by Wigan Yamaha, ready to go touring.
Comes with massive top box, yamaha rack and panniers which use the ignition key for all 3 cases.
If you know these bikes they come loaded with all mod cons, and are built to last well over 200,000 miles!!
This being the ultimate edition comes with the following.
2 rider modes, sport or touring,
Electric adjustable suspension,
Electronic Cruise control,
Switch adjustable screen,
Adjustable fairing wind deflectors.
Reach adjustable handlebars,
LED Cornering lights,
10 stage Heated grips,
Height adjustable seat,
Switchable traction control,
12v socket,
Storage compartment in front fairing,
Yamaha immobiliser, and Thatcham alarm fitted.
All keys present including the red one.
Only letting it go as it just doesn't get used for the big journeys any more, and I'm after a Tracer 900 GT next.
Viewing available in the Wigan area, test rides only with full asking price, your licence and your vehicle keys held to ransom. ?
At my last MoT test the tester advised that the lower bearing on the arm in the suspension by the shock absorber was needing replaced. I have the bearing now but I'm not sure how to remove the arm from its attachment at the frame end in order to press the bearing out of the arm with the arm off the bike. Just removing the bolt at the top does not free it. I've tried pressing the new bearing in with just one end of the arm free but its really awkward.
The drawings I've seen are different. The pdf manual I have shows one sleeve inside the bearing at each end of the arm.
The drawing on the part suppliers web site shows two sleeves, 23 & 26 in the drawing below, at the end of the arm where it meets the frame and one at the lower end.
The sleeve at the lower end of the arm just slides out. The one at the top does not. I'm wary of using too much force unless its appropriate.
