Hi,

Did an oil change about a month or two ago (at most) and all has been well since then. Last couple of commutes home (at night) I've noticed the oil warning light come on.

First time I pulled over right away, off and on with the ignition and started it and it went out and stayed out.

Second time, the day after, it came on and so I pulled over. Off and on with ignition and it lasted a moment but went out again and stayed out.

Drained some oil today as the window was clear brown (mistook the inside of the engine for oil, couldn't actually see any) and the light came and stayed on so I turned the engine off and added 1.3L approx (over 1L but not sure by how much). Ran the bike and the light is now not on at all. I tilted the bike due to the angle of my path not being level and there's plenty inside with the oil at the top, I just hope I haven't overfilled.

When I did the oil change I added what I thoguht was 2.5L (or a little over 2L) using the marks on the oil bottle but there's no signs of leaks, and there's no oil stains on where I park (at home, or work) after a ride; or any signs of leaks. I didn't measure the level at the time based on an uneven path, but also because 2L (or just over) should be enough regardless since capacity is 2.5-2.7L overall.

My question is:

a) will the light come on if the engine is overfilled (its hard to tell as my path is a slight downwards slope, and not level) or does it only come on when the engine oil is low?

b) how do i tell if the oil level switch/sensor is faulty, is there a way to test it?

c) is there any common places for it to leak I wont notice as it would fall onto the road/burn on ehxhaust during ride? Engine case seals, front feed pipe

I don't actually know if it was low, or if it was a faulty switch; by the same token I know don't know if i've overfilled. The only sign it was actually low is that the warning light came on after I drained some out, but lets just say the sensor is NOT faulty and it the oil was low then where the hell did my oil go?

Hi all, 
New to the forum and not long had my 2004 Fazer 1000 but in need of some advice!

To give some perspective the bike runs fine high revs and the way through with smooth throttle, however it has a bit of a lumpy idle and a misfire at 2.5k to around 3.5k, this is very apparent in the 30’s which is making them hard work with the jerkiness. 
I have temp checked the headers and cyclinder 1 seems to not be getting as hot but only be around 40 degrees compared to the rest so suspect this is the one missing. 

I have changed the coils to brand new ones, changed the spark plugs round to test if one is faulty (same result every time) changed the plug caps round from the full running cylinders to no avail. 
Cleaned up all earth connections for the coils and the battery strap. 

I have had the carbs done at my local bit shop with all pilots and o rings sorted, diaphragms also done and cleaned out and then balanced so it runs lovely higher up. 

Air filter all good and fuel pump is priming as it should. Set the TPS many times and the clock test says it’s ok. 
However this is where I need some help - I have checked the ohms rating on the TPS and when I test the black and blue wires it reads 5.5k ohms. 
Then when I check the yellow and blue wire whilst slowly opening the throttle it runs from 0.6 ohm up to a max of 6.9k ohms, but this is momentary, whilst opening the throttle slowly it doesn’t seem to go up progressively, instead it jumps up and down from the lowest reading in between all of them, spiking it. 
The spiking seems to happen when I have the throttle a tiny amount open (ie how it would be when in a 30 holding constant speed at those rpms)

I’m not sure if this is the reason it’s jumping when at constant throttle or not but wondered if anyone could lend some advice? 

It might also be worth mentioning my bike doesn’t have the exup fitted, this lowers low down grunt but I can’t imagine it’s causing the misfire as described! 

Many thanks in advance chaps!

This forum was founded in 2001 (internet archive), and has been an invaluable source of information and help for over 24years and during this time the forum has always been free for anyone to join and participate. 

Following on from Mel's post, as it stands one person is paying out of pocket for the hosting and domain renewal, but that person is retiring from the role. I/we would like to try and keep the forum online and avoid all of the incredibly invaluable information contained within this forum being lost. So off the top of my head we have following options - 

- Someone else takes over the hosting and domain costs in its entirety.
- I/we setup some kind of crowd donation page and ask for donations, over-donations would simply be saved for the following years costs etc.
- Or I try and figure out how to migrate the entire forum to a Raspberry pi or Mini Pc, and cover the cost of the domain name myself. 

The annual hosting and domain name cost, is about the same a pair of tyres. Most of that is the hosting cost, which can probably be reduced, if I can figure out how to safely reduce the amount of space the forum is using.

I'm a computer engineer in my day job, but I know very little Linux. MyBB, hosting and domain forwarding would all be an almost vertical learning curve for me. And that's before I even look at the feasibility of doing a migration from online to local hosting.

Hi,

FZS 600 '99 at 49k miles with multiple symptoms and i'm looking for ideas on causes.

- when cold starting on full choke the bike will cut out sometimes, however starting is not overly difficult for now (mostly two attempts).

- when cold starting ive noticed a slight metalic sound from engine when throttle is opened, seems fine and not noisy upon idle however the bike doesn't sound 100% roaring to go when its cold.

- increased fuel consumption (but this has been over a long period), i'm getting 104-115 miles before the bikes indicator is showing in the bottom section (i apprechiate its hard to gauge as it depends how much i fill up, never tracked mpg)

- slight loss of power, stronger power surges in a certain rev range; however still reaches 60-70mph.

Bike runs on all four cylinders (tested by spraying water at hot exhuast downpipes). Oil, plugs and filter (k&n re-use) serviced within the last 6 months.

I visited local bike shop and he suggested buy an offical yamaha air filter, as i thought it could be valves but he said it wouldnt be. To me it sounds internal at top end.

Not sure there's anything fatal, but perhaps early signs of something or something that's causing me to notice slight issues.

    Hi everyone, I’m looking for some preferred black grab handles to replace my givi rack and top box ( available to buy ! ) 
Would anyone have anything for sale? 
Thanks

Selling a Fzs 1000 2000- 2005 Givi rack and plate on fleabay Very good condition.  Item no  146809212828 

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Following my introduction to the forum I was advised that an R6 shock maybe a better option than having the original shock refurbished. So, after doing some reading I found a 2017 R6 shock that had been serviced ready to go on a track bike but was never used. I opted for sleeving the holes M12-M10 rather than drilling out the top bolt hole on the R6 shock. I'm only 13 stone and never have a pillion so I'm sure the M10 bolt will be up to the job. 130mm dog bones and some washers. The hardest bit of the job was getting the washers on the top bolt. Took a fair few attempts but got there in the end.

I'm probably not a good enough rider to notice a huge difference but it definitely felt better damped and bit firmer sprung (the old one had a Maxton spring, to go with the Maxton fork internals). I think I need to add a bit of rebound on front and back but ir rides pretty good as is. I tried to find some factory settings for the shock and landed on 5mm thread showing as a starter for sag, 10 clicks out low speed comp, 3 turns out high speed comp and 9 clicks out for rebound damping. I'd welcome any comments or opinions.

The only other thing to do is tyres. Current ones are 9 years old. What's the accepted wisdom for best tyres on the Gen 1?

Cheers.

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Since I got a motorcycle with the EXUP system removed, I’m looking either for the valve itself with cables for the exhaust manifold, or the complete manifold with the valve and cables. Shipping to Estonia.

My old one gave up after over a decade.

New one stopped working after about one year.
My friend's boss had his die also.

Grey ones both.

Anyone else experienced this?

(I bought mine from German Amazon, so no use in trying to get a warranty - in Serbia, at that time, no one was importing them)

Hi all - one of our members who was badly injured a couple of years ago is going to do an abseil for charity at the Spinnaker Tower in Portsmouth on the 14th September at 10am - lets see if we can get a bunch of us Foccers down there to support him in this challenge. Give generously too if you can to the justgiving page below.

Trevor Macguire is fundraising for Open Sight