Seen this bike up forsale wondered if anyone on here knows the bike looks immaculate and some tasteful mods, thought i would ask about aint been on here for years but fancy a well sorted thou. Bike silver black engined black rear cowl with nitron sticker,.maxton sticker on the front forks blue braided hoses few more bits and pieces owners name is tony kent area? Cheers.

As thread title. Only had my 2001 for about 800 miles but it seemed uncomfortably buzzy from the outset so I was keen to try a larger front sprocket to see what it was like. Definitely better all round for me, don't notice any loss of acceleration (but only weigh 65kgs starkers). A slightly higer gear to pull away from is no bother after riding a Norton with a belt drive conversion which puts the equivalent of two teeth on the front sprocket - clutch out and you are doing 30mph! Also makes 1st more useful as slightly longer. And a 2nd gear that runs to an indicated 80mph for those 'pass 6 in one go out of the roundabout moments'.

Hi everyone, I'm new here but have had my 1998 FZS600 for around 5 years now. It's a lovely bike and I want to keep it running for as long as possible! 

So I've got a misfire and noticed arcing from the spark plug caps/ boots. I swapped the spark plugs out a couple of years ago for NGK CR8E ones. I want to get new spark plug caps but I'm having a hard time deciding what ones I need and there's very little information on the Internet regarding them. I've seen very few sources mention getting NGK SD05F-R 8238. However looking at these, they don't look anything like the original ones on the Fazer. A different shape! Surely these will put unnecessary tension on the leads due to not having the correct angle at the top? One video I watched showed the guy putting these on and it looked like they were too short for the leads! Also I don't like the red look, so I looked up some more and found NGK SD05F 8022. I'm assuming these are the same caps as the red ones but in black? 

Which leads me to my next issue .. the spark plugs I have (NGK CR8E) have a resistor in them and these NGK spark plug caps also have a resistor in them... Will this not be overkill and dampen the spark? From my understanding sometimes doubling the resistors can actually be more harmful than good. Is this the case with the fazer?

Just hoping for some advice and opinions.  Thanks!

Read up carb synchronisation and camchain adjustment using the many informative links in the forum and then settled to the task. Here is my tuppence worth of commentary.

I don't know if my camchain is noisy or not, don't think it is really but read the bit about turning the engine backwards half turn or so to make a sticky adjuster move to the next position. Bike on centre standard, select 6th gear with plugs in, tried to rotate rear wheel, ha ha, not it isn't going to budge (I am a weed). Parked it, we will come back to this after I have balanced the carbs and warmed the engine up a bit.

Off with the tank. Leave the rear bolt in loose so the tank doesn't skid off somewhere like the floor and prop the front up with a bit of wood at 45 degrees. (Helps if you have run it down to reserve first). You need to prop it unless you are have super dexterity in one hand to release the electrical connector to the fuel gauge. '98 manual downloaded from here shows 3 hoses, my 2001 only had the single fuel hose, turn of the tap and pull it off. Pull the bolt and put the tank on the floor and inspect what is to come. New to me bike a few months ago, now is a smart time to check the air filter. It's a good one, clearly been replaced very recently.

Oh goodness, those screws are tiny and I don't think I have a screwdriver that will get down there. Actually at this stage I can't see all 3 even with a torch because of the ignition coils and other assorted junk hanging of the cross-bar. Pick up phone, Ebay me a No. 1 Phillips x 250mm long, still think I am going to need it. Fortunately it is a hobby bike, not a commuter so a few days delay won't matter.

Remove the two bolts holding the cross bar and carefully pull the whole assembly up a few inches whilst trying not to stretch any of the wiring attached too much. Slackening off the harness cable ties helps no end. Slide thin bit of wood under crossbar and across top of frame tubes to support it out of the way. Back to the torch, twiddle throttle, ah now we can see all three adjustment screws. Rummage through tool box testing various screwdrivers, yeah might just get away with this. Wrap fuel tank loosely in blanket, put an old cushion on the seat and place fuel tank backwards on seat. Yes, fuel hose reaches back to the tap easily, no bother here. Run rope round fuel tank and chassis, pull tight and knot, I am quite clumsy and don't want a still in good condition tank bouncing off on to the floor. Start engine briefly to make sure I haven't pulled any hoses or wires off, all ok. Watch the loosely fitted black plastic elbow that allows the carb tops to breathe doesn't go walkabout.

The throttle cable had developed quite a lot of slack recently, now I can see why - one of the adjuster nuts is loose at the carb end. 10mm wrench to tighten, nigh on impossible to access with the coils in place, a doddle with them lifted up and out of the way per previous.

Assemble my new Morgan Carbtune. Last one of these I had, long since lost, used mercury. I am about to find out that the current version is much easier to read (and from memory responds more quickly) and yet the shim packs still have an uncanny resemblance to mercury columns shimmering (sorry) up and down.

Pinkies in between the carbs to remove the bungs and back in to fit the Carbtune. Start engine and let engine warm up until radiator too hot to touch. Its October, seems to take ages. Carbtune not fussed about a few blips to 6000 rpm to help the process, don't think you could get away with that in the mercury days.

Engine is warm, the columns aren't even so tweak the balance screws until they are. I haven't read deeply on this, the manual is on the computer which is inacessible right now, so I don't know if there is supposed to be a master reference carb or not. Doesn't seem to matter, we have 4 carbs and 3 adjustment screws and an idle adjuster to get it back to the right tickover speed, I will look it up later (now I have remembered, still to do!). All columns within Morgan's 2cm Hg recommendation, probably nearer to 1cm without any great difficulty. Few throttle blips, no meaningful variation, we are done.

With hindsight, yes I could have checked the balance without fuel tank removal, no I don't see any way on this earth you could make adjustments with the tank in situ although someone will probably tell me I am wrong. Engine seems a little smoother and more responsive, out for 60 miles today and yes it is nicer to ride, particularly when applying small throttle opening albeit fxing the throttle slack would have helped that no end.

Reassembled everything taking the opportunity to do a bit of HT cable and hose routing tidying along the way.

Back to the camchain adjuster. Engine is now nice and warm, put it in 6th gear, drop it off the centrestand and push the bike backwwards a couple of times. Yep, that's a scientific half turn backwards of the engine. Is it any quieter, not sure since I didn't record the noise before I started messing. Today's test ride appers to confirm that I haven't done anything too stupid since everything is beautiful. Aa are the trees along one particular part of my test route. All the same species, close to the road in two avenues for about a mile with leaves turning gold, magnificent, Not many more decent riding days left this year I fear, I am an old wuss now and 14C seems quite chilly.

Hopefully the above waffle is useful to someone, throw rocks at it as you will. Cheers all.

(Haven't touched the TPS, should I have?)

Hi, I browse using Firefox and leave myself permanently logged-in to this forum. I am unable to follow links in messages as clicking on them takes me to a landing page which says " foc-u is undergoing some maintenance and should be back about 2:30am." and says "welcome guest" at the top RHS. If I try to log-in on that page (the fields are pre-populated with my username and ...... for password) it says 'username not recognised'.

What am I missing or doing wrong please?

THanks

Schomosport

Has anyone ever seen this bike before? Has anyone got any build details of it?

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/177zJJb7TB/

I can't upload photos ?

So for the next addition to the bike, a very shiny braced swing arm!

Looks like I've a couple of jobs coming up this weekend!

Got the Giles to fit aswell and fingers crossed in the next couple of weeks a new front end ?

More to come.....

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Selling rear disc bolts for fazer 1000 200 - 2005.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146876511997

Gents,

FZ6 for sale, £3350 - 2014 plate - interesting!

Questioned it with the dealer, turns out, 2009, first registered in 2014.

12000 miles - 2 owners

Bargain or avoid??  Won't be many Fazers with a 2014 number plate lol

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/336194125319?...R9j73su5Zg

Yamaha fzs 1000 baglux tank covers. Blue & Silver. £75 each

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