Chaps

Is there a engine to frame earth strap? And if so, where is it located?

The battery negative attaches to the start motor mount.

I am getting 13.5v at 5,000 rpm across the battery which feels low. Normally charging systems are 14v+

So, cleaning up contacts/connectors. Battery to starter strap is good. Need to check the other .... if it's there.

Thanks

BSR67

Time for new home as just not getting used having covered 21582 miles.

Up for sale is my 2002 FZS1000 in stunning condition and never seen rain since I purchased it in 2005 when it had 2200 miles on the clock and it looked like it hadn’t seen rain then either. The exhaust headers are spotless.

Since then, it has had sensible upgrades and kept most of the original parts, there is quite a few spares collected over the years which are included but below is a list of the features above standard.

Genuine Yamaha Belly Pan & Crash bungs.
Nitron Rear Shock fitted within the last few years, with original available.
KTEC front Springs & internals serviced with the last few years.
Akrapovic Carbon Slip on end can, Full Monty, Coolant Bypass, Air Induction Mod.
15T Front & 47T Rear Sprocket on original chain, with originals available.
Rear Hugger and chain guard, with original chain guard available.
Renthal Bars, with original available.
Venhill Braded Hoses.
MRA Screen.
There is a Scott oiler fitted that can still be reinstated, due to the low yearly mileage covered the fuse was removed which I still have but used a chain spray last couple of years.
Datatag.
Exup Valve Serviced and Maintained yearly.
Winter Storage using Ethanol free fuel.
Original Owners Manual two keys, Genuine Yamaha Service manuals.
Great Pirelli Tyre’s, brakes.
Full unbroken MOT’s due Sept 25.
Taxed 1st May.
Looking for @£2K picked up North West England.

If interested send me your email and will send some better quality ones? 
               

Morning Foccers


Just in the middle of another carb pull & strip/clean for shit running.

Done the usual Ivanising process yrs ago, Pipercross filter was recommended, personally I'm on the fence about its filtering ability.
This is the 3rd time in as many yrs that the old girl has developed pilot jet like symptoms & running like a bag a spanners in the low rpm range.
Went out for a blast the other day, bike felt to not be running as smooth as normal, come to think of it, it's felt a bit shitty low down in the low rpm range on the last couple of rides.
This last ride, proved to be showing a very shitty running motor low down, I even pulled into an Adsa car park half thinking I was due for a break down of sorts, a bit of the usual swearing ensued, checked the obvious, all plugs leads seated & tight.
So ride got cut short & a detour back home, low rpm running was by this time much worse.
I had all the classic symptoms of blocked pilot jets.
 
So yesdi I pulled the carbs, I was a bit shocked with the the state of em internally, loads of crap gummed up around brass throttle butterflies & around the pilot holes, pilot jets weren't blocked, which I found odd, I expected to find em choked solid with crap, but no, fairly clean, I could see thru em, poked em thru with my usual method (guitar string) left em soaking in EGR cleaner over night along with all the other jets.
Float valve seats are still good, just needed a bit of a wash in brake cleaner & washed out filter basket, O-rings still supple.

Only way I could shift the accumulated crap within the carb body was copious amounts of scrubbing with old toothbrushes & Holts EGR cleaner, it's awesome stuff but very potent, it likes to eat most rubber products so be careful if you use it.

So wondering if anyone else is having poor filtering from Pipercross filters?
I'm gunna throw my OEM paper filter back in, it's still as new, not impressed one bit with these Pipercrap filters.
I've even bought the Pipercross cleaning kit & re-oil spray, but I've lost all confidence in these foam filters, first time I've used em & it'll be the last.

I've used mainly K&N filters (oiled) on most bikes in recent yrs, running a Sprint race filter in my VFR, virtually same deal as a K&N but seems a better made filter.

Thoughts?

Annual Margate Meltdown, organised by Mark at The Ace Cafe, is on bank holiday Monday 26th of this month. Obviously would only appeal to LOFO’s…..oh, that’ll be me then

Whilst out on Wednesday, I was made aware that when indicating, my lights dimmed slightly, matching the cadence of the indicator. Thinking it might be an earthing problem, I connected an independent earth to both the rear lights and indicators, but the fault persisted, even after connecting to the -ve of the battery. It makes no difference if the engine is running or not. Thoughts please.

Dear All

Had my Fazer a few weeks and have now done 935 miles on it.

When I turn the ignition on, the neutral, fuel, oil and fuel light come on then go off except neutral.

When I start the engine, the oil, temperature and fuel lights momentarily illuminate and then go off again (as if you've just turned the ignition on).

I'm sure it wasn't doing it before! Just watched a couple of You Tube videos of start ups and they don't do it, so I'm not imagining it.

Nornal?
A problem?
An inidcation of a problem?

The only thing that has changed, and may be ENTIRELY coincidental, is that I took it for MOT this morning and there were two extended periods of checking the steering lock to lock to check headrace condition. Makes me wonder whether a dirty/lose connection/wire has been upset. Just a pain in the @rse having to strip and inspect.

Thanks

BSR67

Anyone remember the very start of FOC-U? It must have been some time in the late 90s when I started "Meirion's Fazer Pages". It was all very basic but I added a very basic forum that seemed to get quite popular. There were many suggestions about starting an owners club so myself and, I think, DaveB, came up with the name FOC-U, Fazer Owners Club-Unofficial. That's when the fun started for real with ride outs, Welsh rip-ups, track days, Spring meets etc.,etc.
I'm now a bit of an old fart but am back on a Fazer 1000 and having fun again. 

Hi all, 

I've only just joined this forum and are also pretty new to biking so pls forgive my lack of understanding around certain things!

I brought a Fazer FZS600 (2000 model) privately back in early March and up until recently it was running pretty good. The guy i purchased it from claimed he had done an engine rebuild on it but when i went through the paperwork it looks like he'd replaced a couple of things on the engine (i forget what exactly) to the cost of about £70 so doesn't sound like much of a rebuild to me.

In the last few weeks the bike seems to struggle to start in the mornings in the sense that it turns over fine, but struggles to fire up. After turning it over for 2-3mins (using choke) eventually it seems to fire up and then is fine. 

Also, i'm noticing from time-to-time when attempting to start it in the morning, fuel is pissing out the bottom of the bike i assume from me twisting the throttle when trying to start it? 
Then the fuel stops leaking after about 30-45 secs.

I've checked the spark plugs and they seem ok, although (according to Google) the spark gap should be about 0.8mm and the plugs in my bike have a bigger gap so not sure if thats anything?
The spark plugs in the bike are NGK CR8E ones which appear to be the correct type.
My father reckons i could make the spark gap smaller using a hammer but i'm not sure that sounds correct to me!

Also the fuel gauge doesn't work but i'm planning to remove that and clean it up and see if that helps.

One more thing to note - the guy i brought it from said the carbs need balancing off the back of the 'rebuild' but when i got mechanic to look at it he said that wasn't the case and it was running ok albeit a bit 'lumpy' at 2000 RPM.

Any help or advice will be much appreciated.

Calling tyre wear experts. Has anyone got any idea why my rear Bt023 might be wearing like this? Suspension settings maybe?

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)