upon swapping the camshafts over, I had realised that the exhaust cam was advanced by 1 tooth lol. no wonder it sounded like it had a burble tune.

rest assured all went well, if you are looking to do this then make sure you swap the camshaft sprockets over and that's it. also the timing is tricky as the timing marks are different but you can keep the original timing of the Fazer for low end.torque with a bit of oomph but timed for high end it will just zoom away.

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Does anyone in the UK have a spare set of bolts for the rear brake disc of a FZ6 Fazer 2006 that they can send me ASAP?

Note: the measurements on the picture may not be entirely accurate (I've only got a cheap vernier gauge!) but should be reasonably close.

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I need to replace the rear brake disc on my FZ6, but, despite using a heat gun and then a blow torch, I can't get the bolts that hold the disc on the wheel to move (probably because they haven't been undone since the bike was made) and now the allen heads are starting to strip out.

I don't want to use a dremel to cut slots in them until that's the only option, so I've ordered an impact driver and I've had people on Facebook suggest hammering in a torx bit, but I want to keep the brute force options until I've exhausted all the others.

Earlier today I squirted them with a load of brake cleaner (which is supposed to dissolve threadlock) and now I've left them soaking with Plusgas, so tomorrow I'm going to give them another go with the blowtorch, but does anyone else have any useful suggestions?

I recently bought a '98 FZS600 and after a bit of investigating, it still has the original thinner sprocket nut.
What are peoples thoughts on this issue nowadays? Is it worth trying to change it if the old nut has held on this long or am I asking for trouble messing with it?
Cheers

hey all, hope some of you guys are getting some good weather, currently im trying to figure out why my bike is running rough, i think ive narrowed it down to needing new spark plug caps, but im also not sure if i have the ht leads going to the correct cylinders, i cant find any mention in the haynes book or this forum for what order the engine fires in AND which coil pack does which cylinder, any help would be much appreciated, many thanks in advance!!

I will caveat all this by saying, I will be fully flushing and replacing all the coolant, asap.
But.... The bike is fairly new to me (02 FZS600).
And I've just noticed the coolant res is seemingly empty.
I know I could just stick some distilled water in there, but don't have any, and I've no idea what coolant was last put in. So don't want to go putting In the silkolene pro cool I have in the shed, I realise it could be bad if the previous owner has put something different in.
Apart from what I've said above, as I need to use the bike for the next week, what can I do?
Boil some water and top it off? Will that be a problem?

My headlight went recently, so I decided to get one of the latest Nightbreakers and a spare, except I didn't realise I was actually buying *two* twin packs... (memo to self, don't buy stuff late at night when you're tired!)

So I now have a brand new and unopened pack of two H7 Nightbreaker 200 bulbs for sale.

They cost £33 for the pack, but I'm offering them for £29 including P&P because I don't need them.

Let me know if you're interested...

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The time has come for some new tyres, recommendations please ?

Long shot here anyone have diamentions for a 2000 fazer 600 top yoke wanting to machine a new one.

Hi all. I've been searching for advice online and found some similar threads on forums for different bikes. I recently attempted to change the coolant in my 2003 Fazer 600. All was going well until the time came to replace the drain bolt. I seem to have somehow snapped it off in the hole. The coolant isn't leaking but obviously this needs removing and a new drain bolt putting in. Has anyone else had to deal with this? Is it a common occurrence? How hard was it to remove the broken bolt and do you have any advice? I have already ordered a 'bolt extractor' kit to try to reverse the broken bit of bolt out, and a torque wrench to stop this happening again.