This is another bike I'm trying to shift for the same customer as the RD400, again this was her late husbands bike. 

He owned it from new, used as a road/odd track day bike, is in fully running order, I've had it running recently and it runs fine as does it ride.  It needs new fork seals, only the right has blown but do both and I'd recommend front pads due to possible oil contamination.  It's been stood pretty much for the last 8 yrs.  It's in good condition for year, slight in tank rust beginning to appear, but easily treatable.  It's fitted with what looks like EBC front discs, a Harris race end can and stage 1 Dyno jet kit, both standard jets and end can are available (see picture of box of bits) although Std end can has slight damage, which can be polished out.  Both tyres are Bridgestone look like BT54 and in good condition fitted Mar 21.   

It doesn't have a current MOT but passed it's last Mar 21, bit of wishful thinking on his part I think.  The almost 2 miles put on it after this MOT, I did  on my recent test ride, it runs and rides like a new bike, check the tyre wear! Me chucking it about probably blow the fork seal!.  From 2015 until his death Mar 22 the bikes done a total of 60ish miles, a very low genuine mileage of 19097, it's currently SORN. 

This is a turn the key and ride off, just needs MOT, fork seal and a good clean,

It's worth in the region of £3000 ish, to allow for the seals/pads work, she's looking for £2500 ovno, as she wants in gone.

Hey,
Im looking for a rear shock for my FZS1000 model year 2002. A FZS600 öhlins shock came up for sale at a decent price.


Has anyone done this? And what mods does it require to fit the FZS600 to FZS1000. Usually the upgrade seems to be the other way.


The FZS600 shock is 305mm with a 58mm stroke while the FZS1000 is 305.5mm and 65.5mm stroke. (Öhlins website)

Fazer now mot's and running, thanks to the alarm/immobiliser blanking plug. Just tyres and a service to go.

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Hi all anyone know where my old girl is
she was taken from me a couple of years ago when i was at a low spot
i had her for 9 years plus and really miss her T I A  cheers paul

I'm trying to shift this for a customer, it was her late husbands.

The bike is all original, untouched/restored, it was fully working last used approximately 4 years ago, 36000k genuine miles, all paperwork is present.  Engine/wheels/brakes are all unseized, throttle cable are possibly seized or crab slides are stuck in the bodies, very common, it's normally just dried out 2 stoke oil.  The bike could be made to run and obtain an MOT without too much work, but it would make a superb restoration project for someone.

She's looking for £4000 ovno. 

Hello and a happy Easter from a snowy Norway..

My 99' fzs600 ( ca 281' km on the clock) been sittin in the shed since october so drain the oil etc now
-but befor i refill I remember the oil usage problemo - add the ca 2dl oil fix  every now&then ~ 2week to shutup the oil light ( except on downhill in right turn ) ..


- engine's was qute "normal" just some bluesmokin for the first 2-5.. min when cold


So my Q : Any point to just swap the sump gasket befor I refill ?
(ebay'd from your splendid island some years ago    )


- its quite alot of (normal?) solidfy oil / gunk around the right lower of the bikes oil pan sump / gear change area



Is it 'hard' to change the sump gasket meself / somthin to watch out for..?
1 off with the downpipe etc..
2 ..



-found this on yt : watch?v=zrW5j7CskRU  but its for a fj1300..


Or mby should a garage do that job ?


btw - Can it be done with just the sidestand down ( my left leg centerstand is curretly snapped off   - guess that also need to be rewelded )




Kind regds (& sorry for me bad egnlish  :lol [size=78%] )[/size]
morty 

Five or six a year I'll take the bike up to Donington Park and have some track time. I love it. But because I always go down a tooth on the front sprocket for the day, and the sprocket nut always tightens up to the same spot on the transmission shaft and can only be used once as the lip area is weak and only designed for single use, I could spend £140 a year on nuts. I looked at cutting some more dimples on the shaft to allow the nuts to be reused, but couldn't get anything in as access is tight. Nor do I have access to a surface grinder or lathe to shave a gnats cock of either the nut or the spacer that sits behind it, that would allow alternative dimpling positions. An option is getting some shim steel and cutting a shim/some shims in order to move the dimple points around a little. Other suggestions are welcome on this one.

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Received my renewal quote recently, a 50% plus increase in the premium  :eek . After some discussion, we arrived at an agreed premium increase of less than 5% for the same cover.

I'm really in need of some help.
The bike was starting as normal yesterday morning. All dash lights come on when key was turned.
When I pressed the ignition button it was delayed and I let do just as I heard it start to spark
When I let go the whole bike went black.
I'm getting no power at all to the dash and nothing from ignition
I have check all the fuses and they are all OK (even the 30amp)
I have tried another battery and still the same.
What could it be and what can I do to get it fixed?
Thanks for any advice

Just put these on my Gen2. I'm running them through a relay switched by the back light feed.


Got the lights from ebay for £16.53 (but the listing looks like it's ended) and the brackets from Aliexpress, took about three weeks delivery. Really bright and decent quality for what they cost and the brackets seem good. I was going to put a couple more pictures up but it's only letting me post one.



￡5.06  40％ Off | Motorcycle bracket Bumper Mount Clamp Motorcycle Headlight mount Bracket Adjustable led light bracket holder support de phare
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNzjEfU


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274955594867?...media=COPY


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265460514826?...media=COPY


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