I simply want to purchase a digital gear indicator that is a plug and play device, if it exists? Something with clear and concise instructions on how to fit it to a Gen 1. Or a link to a video that shows exactly how it should be done, any cutting into the loom or crap like that is a definite no no! Any recommendations or advice gratefully received as I am sick hunting for the elusive seventh gear.  Many thanks.

I've now come to the conclusion that the 1000, will not be going back to standard, so I have the following for sale:


FZS1000 2001/02 Exhaust Headers and link pipe. EXUP was removed as it was rattling like a good 'un and it was quicker for me to buy and fit a complete Black Widow system, however, with patience, some cobalt drills and a few replacement parts it could be like new again.
Look tatty, but it's been outside for the last 4 months.
In the plastic bag are the EXUP parts.


£50.00 collection only.

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
   

I have a 2003 FZS600 and recently purchased a 2007 S2 FZ6. The FZS throttle response is smooth and predictable but the throttle on the S2 is just the opposite, it seems to have a dead spot when first turned then suddenly takes!. Not good when you are trying to smoothly increase speed coming out of corners. Anyone had this problem or any ideas on how to smooth out the throttle response?

Hi all, I've got a 2000 Fazer 600 that won't start. I bought the bike about 3 or 4 weeks ago and on two occasions it wouldn't start without being bumped. Every other time it starts first push of the button. Now it will start first time but then cut out and won't start again. I've checked the battery and that seems fine. Are there any common things that a non mechanical person can check relatively easily? Thanks.

Hi all what are the options for the woeful headlights on a 2000 Fazer 600. LEDs, osram, spotlights etc... What are everyone's suggestions. Thanks

Hi, thanks for accepting me. I passed my test 4 weeks ago and bought a 2000 Fazer 600 in black. Love the bike but as I'm new to bikes I'm probably going to be mothering you all to death. Thanks

Out on the fazer yesterday, called in at my usual petrol station for some BP Ultimate, they only had E10 and nothing else (not even diesel), so rode another few miles to an Esso that sells ethanol free. Got there and that one looked abandoned, all fenced off. With the dregs left in the tank, turned again for a 5/6 mile ride to the nearest Shell filing station. Now the odd bit. I filled up (V-Power), paid with cash, and rode home. Within an hour, I had received an advertising e-mail from Shell in my inbox, and I dont recall ever receiving anything from Shell previously. I never spoke to the cashier other than to say "pump 8" and "thanks". Is it coincidence or are all registrations numbers collected and the owners address then obtained by Shell from the DVLA. How the foc did they get my e-mail address?

[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)]2021 Yamaha Tracer 9GT Top box / Rear rack / Passenger back rest[/color][color=rgb(51, 51, 51)]Having sold my 2021 Yamaha Tracer 9GT, I now have the following for sale…….
[/color]Yamaha 50L top box, complete with passenger back rest and mounting plate. No key with it, but it is unlocked, so that you can either remove the lock and have it keyed to your ignition key, or you can get a lock set with a single key from Yamaha currently for £17.50. 
The box is in excellent condition with no obvious damage.
By my calculations to buy this set up new would cost you:

Yamaha 50L top box £237.98 inc lock set from Flitwick
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)]Back rest £37.05 from FlitwickYamaha [/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)]top box mounting plate £81.70 from Flitwick [/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)]Total £356.73. [/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)]Assuming that any buyer will want to buy a lock set @ £17.50 from Yamaha, I’m offering the box / rack / back rest here for £172.50 plus P&P at cost.[/color]

So reading on Pats site about how to set TPS position it goes on to say at the end of a method recommended by Ivan.
This involves moving the TPS in relation to rpm. This is supposed to give a good position to reduce vibes.
Ivans/Pats write up goes on to say by using this setup method on putting the TPS into test mode it can show 10k rpm and not 5k rpm, which is the recommended position.


Can someone explain to me what the significance is of the 5k and 10k settings are and why it dosent seem to matter, infact the write up suggests its better at 10k?


Cheers

after loosing two sprocket nuts , the original oem and recently the thicker nut , my brother who is a good engineer/ mechanic came up with this.  it IS possible to drill into the end of the output shaft and tap a thread , in our case an  8 mm allen head bolt to hold a washer to prevent further loss of sprocket nuts , along with obligatory thread lock .  have to say it wasnt easy drilling into the case hardened shaft deep enough to take a thread , lots of patience not to go too deep in one go it is resistant to drilling and tapping but with careful application and patience it can be done . took most of the day to accomplish and its possible for the nut still to work loose but now it sits tight against the washer now , so cannot come off again.

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
   

  IMG_8596.mov (Size: 2.22 MB / Downloads: 7)