I'm trying to shift this for a customer, it was her late husbands.

The bike is all original, untouched/restored, it was fully working last used approximately 4 years ago, 36000k genuine miles, all paperwork is present.  Engine/wheels/brakes are all unseized, throttle cable are possibly seized or crab slides are stuck in the bodies, very common, it's normally just dried out 2 stoke oil.  The bike could be made to run and obtain an MOT without too much work, but it would make a superb restoration project for someone.

She's looking for £4000 ovno. 

Hello and a happy Easter from a snowy Norway..

My 99' fzs600 ( ca 281' km on the clock) been sittin in the shed since october so drain the oil etc now
-but befor i refill I remember the oil usage problemo - add the ca 2dl oil fix  every now&then ~ 2week to shutup the oil light ( except on downhill in right turn ) ..


- engine's was qute "normal" just some bluesmokin for the first 2-5.. min when cold


So my Q : Any point to just swap the sump gasket befor I refill ?
(ebay'd from your splendid island some years ago    )


- its quite alot of (normal?) solidfy oil / gunk around the right lower of the bikes oil pan sump / gear change area



Is it 'hard' to change the sump gasket meself / somthin to watch out for..?
1 off with the downpipe etc..
2 ..



-found this on yt : watch?v=zrW5j7CskRU  but its for a fj1300..


Or mby should a garage do that job ?


btw - Can it be done with just the sidestand down ( my left leg centerstand is curretly snapped off   - guess that also need to be rewelded )




Kind regds (& sorry for me bad egnlish  :lol [size=78%] )[/size]
morty 

Five or six a year I'll take the bike up to Donington Park and have some track time. I love it. But because I always go down a tooth on the front sprocket for the day, and the sprocket nut always tightens up to the same spot on the transmission shaft and can only be used once as the lip area is weak and only designed for single use, I could spend £140 a year on nuts. I looked at cutting some more dimples on the shaft to allow the nuts to be reused, but couldn't get anything in as access is tight. Nor do I have access to a surface grinder or lathe to shave a gnats cock of either the nut or the spacer that sits behind it, that would allow alternative dimpling positions. An option is getting some shim steel and cutting a shim/some shims in order to move the dimple points around a little. Other suggestions are welcome on this one.

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Received my renewal quote recently, a 50% plus increase in the premium  :eek . After some discussion, we arrived at an agreed premium increase of less than 5% for the same cover.

I'm really in need of some help.
The bike was starting as normal yesterday morning. All dash lights come on when key was turned.
When I pressed the ignition button it was delayed and I let do just as I heard it start to spark
When I let go the whole bike went black.
I'm getting no power at all to the dash and nothing from ignition
I have check all the fuses and they are all OK (even the 30amp)
I have tried another battery and still the same.
What could it be and what can I do to get it fixed?
Thanks for any advice

Just put these on my Gen2. I'm running them through a relay switched by the back light feed.


Got the lights from ebay for £16.53 (but the listing looks like it's ended) and the brackets from Aliexpress, took about three weeks delivery. Really bright and decent quality for what they cost and the brackets seem good. I was going to put a couple more pictures up but it's only letting me post one.



￡5.06  40％ Off | Motorcycle bracket Bumper Mount Clamp Motorcycle Headlight mount Bracket Adjustable led light bracket holder support de phare
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNzjEfU


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274955594867?...media=COPY


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265460514826?...media=COPY


[smg id=3587 type=preview align=center caption="EC773860 E008 4954 A522 4D870D01A1FA"]

upon swapping the camshafts over, I had realised that the exhaust cam was advanced by 1 tooth lol. no wonder it sounded like it had a burble tune.

rest assured all went well, if you are looking to do this then make sure you swap the camshaft sprockets over and that's it. also the timing is tricky as the timing marks are different but you can keep the original timing of the Fazer for low end.torque with a bit of oomph but timed for high end it will just zoom away.

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Does anyone in the UK have a spare set of bolts for the rear brake disc of a FZ6 Fazer 2006 that they can send me ASAP?

Note: the measurements on the picture may not be entirely accurate (I've only got a cheap vernier gauge!) but should be reasonably close.

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I need to replace the rear brake disc on my FZ6, but, despite using a heat gun and then a blow torch, I can't get the bolts that hold the disc on the wheel to move (probably because they haven't been undone since the bike was made) and now the allen heads are starting to strip out.

I don't want to use a dremel to cut slots in them until that's the only option, so I've ordered an impact driver and I've had people on Facebook suggest hammering in a torx bit, but I want to keep the brute force options until I've exhausted all the others.

Earlier today I squirted them with a load of brake cleaner (which is supposed to dissolve threadlock) and now I've left them soaking with Plusgas, so tomorrow I'm going to give them another go with the blowtorch, but does anyone else have any useful suggestions?

I recently bought a '98 FZS600 and after a bit of investigating, it still has the original thinner sprocket nut.
What are peoples thoughts on this issue nowadays? Is it worth trying to change it if the old nut has held on this long or am I asking for trouble messing with it?
Cheers