Wondering if anyone has a recommendation for a make of offset screwdriver to adjust mixture screw.
Also has anyone had experience of using a Gunson Colourtune kit to set the mixture correctly.
Finally, if I decide to have a go at servicing the carbs, any recommendations for refurbishment kits.  Yambits sell a kit for £11 approx per carb but that doesn't include new jets etc.  Had a quote of £350 ish to refurbish the whole carb set and told the parts are around £30 per carb. Thinking I should know how to do this myself (without buggering it up!)
Bike was off the road for two years and stuttered  a bit before the revs got up.  This cleared up somewhat after an hour or so on the road.  Something sticking and now freeing up?  20 years old so probably worth a refurb by now. Oil, filters and plugs all new.
All advice welcome

I can arrange a ride from north Kent if anyone’s interested.

Just a heads up if anyone’s at a loose end at the end of April. Hopefully the weather will be a vast improvement on 2021.

I've done something daft or damaged my bike after a cracked radiator. Still overheating I think, causing the oil filter to leak. If anyone fancies reading and giving me some pointers, any pointers at all, that would be much appreciated.


I've replaced a cracked radiator, and all the 25 year old rubber pipes. I currently have the aftermarket temperature gauge saying that the temp is ok at the top, but the oil filter just chucked oil everywhere, and it's acting like it's overheating down there. Seems strained with the throttle open. So I've done something daft, I am not sure what. Or damaged something somehow. Would the oil leaking from the filter do this?

These are connected correctly, right?

https://imgur.com/a/faljkvr

I haven't got coolant coming out anywhere. It's at the top when I open the fill whatsit under the tank, and the level is right where I left it in the overflow.It's doing the swirly thing looking at the coolant with the cover off, so I think that means it's circulating. The coolant has come out clean, the oil doesn't have any coolant in it.

My number 24 on this is maybe 2cm too long, so it's a bit bent. Looks like it's open though so I didn't worry about it on install. Pics on the Imgur link.  I've got it going to the top of 9 on the diagram, is this correct?

https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-mo...B7/0/24224

My plan at the moment is get the oil sealed and see how it behaves. I don't know if a leaking oil filter would make it behave like it is, but it sounds unlikely. I'm at a loss if that doesn't sort it. Busto engine somehow? Anything else to check?

Thanks if anyone can help.

*Yes I will do some painting and cleaning in there and repainting while I've the chance. It's all off now, tomorrows job is clean and paint.

[color=rgb(5, 5, 5)]Hi guys, wondering if anyone knows of adjustable/replacement pillion pegs for the FZS1000? My other half finds the pegs too close and it hurts her knees, says they could do with being lower and further forward. We're going on a week-long bike tour at the end of the month and I don't want her to be uncomfortable. Any help greatly appreciated.[/color]

[color=rgb(15, 15, 15)]I've had the Fazer 2003 for a few years now and never had a problem with the carburetors. Service of carburetors and valves was 3 years ago. I have changed spark plugs and filters. The only reason why I decided to do a synchro is that the moto during the first ride this season sometimes from lower revs reacts lazily to unscrewing the throttle, which personally bothers me. The bike runs fine at idle. During the synchro, I was able to balance carburettors 1 and 2 without any problems while maintaining the recommended idle speed. The problem with carburetors 3 and 4 is that on the 4th cylinder from the start the readings were very uneven, so it took a lot of turning the screw to even them out. It is possible to balance all 4 carburetors, but the problem is that then the engine idle speed increases to 3000 or more. And I can't reduce it because the idle screw in the carburetor is already unscrewed to the end. I suspect there is a problem with the fourth carburetor but I don't know what it is. In the video below is the last acceptable setting where the engine idle speed is still normal. The pointer of the fourth vacuum gauge previously was all the way to the upper green "Normal" field. [/color]Error 404 (Not Found)!!1

Hey everyone,

When trying to change the old stretched timing  chain in my 1999 fzs600 with an open ended with rivet type, I’ve somehow got the chain caught on something on the crank or case.

It happened when I was feeding the new chain around the sprocket having wired it to the old chain and started pulling it through. Issue is it came off the sprocket and during the 4.5 hour battle to fish it back on, has now become stuck.

Has anyone else had this? Is there any easy way to sort this that I’m missing?

Thanks in advance!
Aron

[pre]I've had the motorcycle for 5 years. The 2003 version and I'm not going to change it for anything else, taking into account the economy, how much work I put into it and its other advantages. Greetings to the forum users.[/pre]

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Hi all, I'm about to change the oil on my FZ1 ABS 2012 (my first time changing the oil). The manual says I should replace the engine oil drain bolt gasket with a new one, but there is no part number and I can find it on Fowlers. Can I just use a crush washer? and what is the size?
Thanks,Bikebud.

Just had an MOT and got advisory for the rear caliper sticking.  To my knowledge it's never been serviced.

Looking for advice on this. Not competent to do it myself and don't want to go down the wrong path.

There are places online advertising a refurb service of between 50-75 quid.  Not sure how detailed they go.
Should I change the pistons even if they look ok?
Are the kits available online any good?
Anybody on here do them as a project?
Should I change the pads at the same time?

Etc...