Hello. Long time lurker and hoping that theres still enough people on this board to help me out. I always prefer forums as it is, but here goes..


99 fzs600 with no spark. I have absolutely ran out of ideas why. I bought it with no spark, the previous owner gave up.


I have:

• two igniter boxes
  
• new plugs
  
• new leads
  
• new coils
  
• tested pickup coil - 260ohms
  
• loop plugs x2 in place under the seat
  
• replacement loom, all continuity tested, all plugs clean
  
• anything that would kill the spark has been tested and proven to work (kickstand, clutch switch, cutout switch)
  
• every wire going into the igniter box has been continuity tested to where it ends up, via the haynes mnaual
  
• new battery
  

1. The two white plugs under the seat with looped connections - one of the plugs has four connections, but only two are looped. Is this correct?
   
2. Is there a way to bypass the ignition cutoff relay in order to rule it out? It HAS failed some of the tests in the haynes manual but from reading the diagrams it seems to just send 12v to the igniter box anyway, which it does.
   
3. Pickup coil reads 206ohms and jumps to 260ohms when ignition is on. When it picks up a signal from the rotor, it only moves around about +_20ohms. Is this correct?
   

  Has anyone ever had their Gen 1 front lower engine mount/brace (the part that gets pelted with stones and crap in the middle, then goes rusty ☹️) shot blasted and powder coated? Obviously washers and bolts would be used to blank off where the bushings and rubbers are.  Bearing in mind the rubber inserts may be affected by the curing heat for the powder? Has anyone done this successfully?

Garmin 395 motorcycle sat nav, kit includes car mount, instructions, boxed. The sat nav has a fitting on the rear to allow a tether to be attached, this can easily be removed if not required. £150 posted.

Hi Foccers.

I've just received an email in my Gmail Inbox from noreply@foc-u.co.uk but I have no corresponding message on our website.
Does anyone know if the email is genuine or is it a scam?

When I hover my mouse over the noreply address another personal-type email address is displayed - simon@prince.uk.net.

Thanks in advance for any help/advice you can give.

Dave

Wanted renntec or similar rack for 2003 fzs 600,
(Wanted to fit topbox) not worried about condition as I'll probably hammerite it anyway.
Cheers
Clive 

Hi I’m taking delivery of a fazer 1000 gen 1 soon and can’t wait to sample the bike as I’ve never had a bike this powerful, will it be faster than my BSA Bantam? ?? seriously it will sit well with my other bikes which are all from the 70s

  Like many on here I do enjoy talking shite about my previous Foxeye and my present Gen 1,05, Thou. Against all better judgement l created a profile for Facebook which I f****** loathe, to try and join a Fazer group. I was declined as a scammer! ☹️ Yes the Facebook profile was vague because I don’t want to be arsed with people contacting me from years ago, I only want to access the Fazer groups! Any thoughts? P.s. As a self confessed ugly B******! I did not have my picture on Facebook when I joined, could this have something to do with it?

Well just joined as I took a rush of blood to the head and took on a 2001 fazer 600.


Bought as a project as has snapped exhaust studs of course the 3 snapped ones are in the inner cylinders as be too easy if accessible!


Ok best thoughts on how i fix this bar ripping the engine out and getting to a machine shop?


Access is terrible, is it a big job to remove the radiator, still looks like a small pip is in the way, hard to see at all in a very cramped garage tbh.


the studs are well corroded, i see one has been replaced, criminal no copper grease fitted so even new studs were stuck!


on plus side the headers look ok cheap Grade stainless oem i presume but intact no signs of damage or corrosion.


The exhaust was missing the bolt next the clamp where down pipes join the back box, so was only hanging on that, clearly someone had a go before.


so now i need new studs and bolts IF i can the 3 damaged ones out somehow




apart from that runs ok done 27k and shows it been a commuter workhorse, indicators all work just loose lights light candles but working, few scrapes but fairing free of cracks or anything


hopefully not beyond repair

Hi all thought I should join as i have lurked about and seen some great info on here!


Just bought a 2001 Fazer 600 that seen better days (3 off snapped exhaust studs and well used)


Been away from bikes for decades only took this on as a winter project already regretting it!


Based 20 miles west of Glasgow so hopefully some helpful members that part of the world

Hi Fellow Riders. First time poster here 
I know there are lots of posts about restarting a bike after sitting idle for a long time, but I’m yet to find a similar problem (or fix).  I hope someone can point me in the right direction!

I was working away when COVID hit so my ’98 FZS600 has been garaged for a few years.  This Summer I tried to get it running:
- Battery was dead, so replaced with new.
- Fuel was stale, so drained tank & replaced with fresh. Drained carbs too while I was at it (green ‘gel’ came out of the carb drains  :'( ).
- Engine turned over but didn’t start.


- Removed plugs, they looked OK & spark when the ignition is pressed (& removed), but seemed to stay dry when engine was turning over. This, along with the ‘green gel’ of stale fuel, led me to guess the jets were blocked so no fuel was reaching cylinders.


- Removed carbs from bike, removed float chamber body, removed and manually cleaned all jets. Main Jets & Pilot Jets were really caked up with lots of blockages but all seem to clean up nice.  Carbs seem to operate fine on bench (as far as I could test them).
- Reassembled onto bike with fresh fuel funnelled direct into fuel line (tank kept off bike).
- Engine turned over, some coughing, but still didn’t start. Fuel drops in fuel inlet line by about 1cm every time a start is tried (for about 10s each time). Is this about right?



- Just in case fuel still wasn’t getting through carbs (although I'm not sure where the fuel from the inlet pipe would be going, but…), a little petrol was added to cylinders 1 & 4 via the carb synchronisation vacuum ports before restarting.  Same result: engine turned over, some coughing (maybe a little more than before), fuel drops in line, but still didn’t start.
- The repeated attempts to start drained the battery several times & trickle charger was taking too long so also used a car battery to ‘jump start’. I guessed this would have the added benefit of delivering a higher CCA current if there was a problem with the new battery & it wasn’t good enough, if that was the issue. Same result, no start.
So, spark, fuel, & air (filter checked & fine), all seem present. What else could be wrong? What else could I try?
I'm out of ideas, & given it's age my local garage suggested it'll cost much more for them to diagnose & repair than the bike's worth. I'd much rather get it working & ride again than sell for scrap, so any advice is appreciated!

Thanks in advance, Chris