Hi I am putting my 06 fazer 1000 up for sale I bought it in January 2011 with approx 13000 miles it has now covered 25120 miles 2000 miles in the last 4 years, I am the 4th keeper, the MOT was done on 23,3,23 at 25015 miles. The oil and filter was done at 23500 along with set of plugs, front tyre at 23500 rear tyre at 22800 both are Michelin pilot, had a new battery a couple of years ago, I had the forks rebuilt last winter and replaced the front brake pads, the rear shock was replaced with a bmw s1000rr, the alarm immobiliser has been removed as it was starting play up, the end can is a MTC stainless tri oval.
It is getting a bit big and heavy for me as I am on the wrong side of 60 so I looking for something smaller and lighter.
I was looking for £1700 ono, there is also a top box (detachable) to go with it.
I am in Ayrshire SW Scotland
As you can see it has had some alterations, they were all done by myself in 2011 and has never had any problems at MOT time.
I took off the R&G tail tidy off my Fazer 8, that the bike came with, as I wanted more weather protection.
I bought a secondhand Fazer 1000 rear guard, which it the same part numbers as a Fazer 8.My query is regarding the number plate light, as the one on this guard seems loose. I took a look at it, and there are shouldered screws going through rubber bobbins, presumably for vibration damping, but mine seem very loose. Can anyone confirm whether this is correct and yours will move up and down to the touch?
[Edited to fix the tiny font: GrahamM - Moderator]
Fitted a 2nd hand datatool digi gear indicator to wife's 2002 foxeye. Struggling to program/learn gears. Will program 1st 2nd and 3rd but 4th onwards will not learn at all. Tried numerous times at slightly different rpm and it's not having it any tips?
Also bike seems to have a noise from front end like a bearing despite all wheel bearings replaced. Starts from about 15-20mph onwards makes no difference what gear it's in of if clutch is in or out wondered if anyone has had similar issue?
Thanks
Just a heads up. It’s the return of the annual Calstock bike rally and show next weekend. Entertainment starts on the Thursday evening Aug 3rd. Usually have around a dozen bands performing over the weekend. Pay on the gate for camping. Current forecast is for rain :'( ,but can’t sit around waiting for the sun to come out.
I took off the R&G tail tidy off my Fazer 8, that the bike came with, as I wanted more weather protection.
I bought a secondhand Fazer 1000 rear guard, which it the same part numbers as a Fazer 8.
My query is regarding the number plate light, as the one on this guard seems loose. I took a look at it, and there are shouldered screws going through rubber bobbins, presumably for vibration damping, but mine seem very loose. Can anyone confirm whether this is correct and yours will move up and down to the touch?
Hi guys
Tried the tapered broom handle trick,with no results
Anyone used a damper rod removal tool
And any idea what sort of one would be suitable
Cheers
Link to the one I was looking at https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283538565213?...media=COPY
I couldn’t find any posts regarding this filter!
I found it in the fuel intake on the carbs, I’ve only just discovered it after twenty odd years
It had some crud in it! Not a lot, but enough perhaps to cause issues.
This follows on from my post on cylinders 3&4 not firing. Managed to get those working by replacing the plug caps. Now I have a new problem!
When riding for a bit at high RPM/speed (5-10 mins at 70+ MPH), the bike starts to stutter, which will turn into a misfire if I carry on. Then after a few mins at low RPM/speed the misfire/stutter goes away.
I previouly took off the carbs and cleaned a load of gunk out of the float bowls and jets (didn't touch anything else).
Things I have tried/checked:
Checked for kinks in tank breathers and fuel line.
New fuel filter - previous one was installed backwards so couldn't see if it was blocked. It wasn't.
New sparks.
New spark caps (NGK straight) - Cut 10mm of the HT leads before installing
New (2nd hand) regulator/rectifier.
Checked coils - primary resistance out by .5 ohm, secondary resistance well in spec.
The switchblocks on the handlebar looked tired on my bike, not surprisingly. Found a very similar (and affordable) set on Ali [ https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32899338...1802d1IkEF ]. Recently installed it, and I would like to share my experience, for other owners, who wants to try it.- The connectors aren't the same. I bought new connectors on Ali, very cheap, I needed 2 pin (black coloured), 6 pin and 9 pin "2.8 mm" connector sets (white coloured), usually sold in 5 or 10 pcs in a bag, male and female versions. For example: [ https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10050017...slEGslEGAw ] These connectors are widespread on motorcycles.Using a multimeter and the factory wiring diagram I identified which wire goes where. The chinese swiches wired differently, they joined certain 12V and ground wires, which in theory could be OK, but the wires are thin, so I decided to make the wiring exactly the same as the originals. I had to add 2 extra wires per side, and separate some joined wires. The cluch switch connector must be changed to the new 2 pin black connector, the front brake switch connector remains as it is (I soldered over the crimping, to be honest I soldered over every crimped joints).
- The switch internals are good quality! That was a surprise, for the price. It's true, the Yamaha originals have metal tabs to hold the individual parts inside, but the the switches themselves are plastic. The aftermarked switches are built a little differently inside, no metal tabs, but they seemed good quality, I think they will work for a long time. Time will tell.- The new switches has positioning tabs, like the originals, and fit in the same position on the hadlebar.
- The new left switchblock has no choke lever, but it has a hazard lights button, I liked that, so installed a button on the choke directly on the left carburetor, and deleted the original remote choke lever.- I installed the switches, they work well, the hazard lights are working perfectly with the original flasher relay (bought an electronic one, just in case, but not needed)
GMTY[table][tr][td][/td][td]
