Hi Fellow Riders. First time poster here 
I know there are lots of posts about restarting a bike after sitting idle for a long time, but I’m yet to find a similar problem (or fix).  I hope someone can point me in the right direction!

I was working away when COVID hit so my ’98 FZS600 has been garaged for a few years.  This Summer I tried to get it running:
- Battery was dead, so replaced with new.
- Fuel was stale, so drained tank & replaced with fresh. Drained carbs too while I was at it (green ‘gel’ came out of the carb drains  :'( ).
- Engine turned over but didn’t start.


- Removed plugs, they looked OK & spark when the ignition is pressed (& removed), but seemed to stay dry when engine was turning over. This, along with the ‘green gel’ of stale fuel, led me to guess the jets were blocked so no fuel was reaching cylinders.


- Removed carbs from bike, removed float chamber body, removed and manually cleaned all jets. Main Jets & Pilot Jets were really caked up with lots of blockages but all seem to clean up nice.  Carbs seem to operate fine on bench (as far as I could test them).
- Reassembled onto bike with fresh fuel funnelled direct into fuel line (tank kept off bike).
- Engine turned over, some coughing, but still didn’t start. Fuel drops in fuel inlet line by about 1cm every time a start is tried (for about 10s each time). Is this about right?



- Just in case fuel still wasn’t getting through carbs (although I'm not sure where the fuel from the inlet pipe would be going, but…), a little petrol was added to cylinders 1 & 4 via the carb synchronisation vacuum ports before restarting.  Same result: engine turned over, some coughing (maybe a little more than before), fuel drops in line, but still didn’t start.
- The repeated attempts to start drained the battery several times & trickle charger was taking too long so also used a car battery to ‘jump start’. I guessed this would have the added benefit of delivering a higher CCA current if there was a problem with the new battery & it wasn’t good enough, if that was the issue. Same result, no start.
So, spark, fuel, & air (filter checked & fine), all seem present. What else could be wrong? What else could I try?
I'm out of ideas, & given it's age my local garage suggested it'll cost much more for them to diagnose & repair than the bike's worth. I'd much rather get it working & ride again than sell for scrap, so any advice is appreciated!

Thanks in advance, Chris

Hello


Basically as the title says, bike has been out of action for a couple of years and it developed a fuel leak on one carb. Found a blockage in no.3 carb and I decided to strip and rebuild the carbs with a rebuild kit about a year ago, and one carb leaking turned into all four. Also had to replace one of the manifold rubbers on the airbox as it had deformed. Came back to it a week ago and stripped and rebuilt again, checked all float bowl gaskets etc were sealed properly and put the carbs back in again. Same issue again.


I feel like im banging my head against a brick wall as nothing I try will stop the issue, and i'm not really wanting to spend money getting them professionally rebuilt as the bike in it's current state is worth around what it would cost to get done.


Any tips as to what I may be missing? I'd never done this before, so want to make sure I touch all bases before I make a serious decision on where to go next.


Thanks

The rip off of people at these corporate run events, just keeps getting worse.

Just to visit, not sure if there was any online pre booking for entry tickets before now, but there isn't now, you could get discount which had to be done pre 17 Nov for car parking.  Currently it's £48.95 per person for one day :eek and that just covers parking and entry! On line booking knocks off a huge £1.70 but you get slapped with a £2 online charge for entry and £10 off for parking which had to be done before 17 Nov and presumably bike parking if you can't get into free bike parking. 

Whether it was cheaper a few weeks ago I don't know?

Yes you can get free bike parking, but that's 1st come 1st served how big this is who knows plus £2 kit drop off.  Most I know go in the car save all the kit faf and buy stuff, so taking the bike isn't really an option.   

The feed back from contacts in the trade who are there, is don't bother unless you really must see a new bike that's not as yet in the showroom and can't wait until it is.  Everything else pretty much, you can see/buy/do elsewhere without paying the exertional entry and parking fee.

Don't even go there with the drink and food prices, for what is cheap low end takeaway food. 

Sadly it's all about corporate making as much money as they can.    :evil :evil :evil

Confused, workshop manual says exhaust valve clearance 0.21-0.25. Further down the page on the charts to calculate which shim is needed the clearance is 0.21-0.30. which is correct ?     

I don’t know why I bother posting these events, as it’s only me that goes :lol . Anyhow, as usual the meeting point is Tankerton Rd car park CT5 2AS at 12 noon, leaving at 1pm for the Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother hospital at Margate. There’s usually an on-site burger van for drinks and food. If you don’t want to bring a toy, which is a chore, cash donations can be made to authorised collectors in the car park. I’m happy to lead a morning ride to the event via a cafe, starting near the old Oakdene cafe, close to M25 and M26, but it would be an early start to get to the ride start venue by approx 12:30.

Hi all just bought a 2000 fzs 600 as a non runner. Took carbs out, stripped ultrasonically cleaned, replaced all o rings. She now starts on the button but has a slight missfire under load or opening the throttle between 1-2000 rpm. Above 2000rpm the bike pulls cleanly all the way through the rev range. Before I strip the carbs down again does anyone have any ideas? I’ve trimmed the HT leads down by 10mm and set the TPS to 5k as per the manual. I still need to balance the carbs but not sure if it’s a good idea with the missfire, or could that be the reason it’s misfiring?
Any advice greatly appreciated.

  Does anyone else think our instrument cluster indication of the indicators being in use is shite? I am an old twat from the days of RD 250/400 and 350LCs,  Kawasaki triples etc. The yams, especially of that era had blindingly :lol  obvious flashing bright ones, self cancelling indicators as well, the LC especially as they were mounted very high on the cluster! I am forever forgetting to switch the Fazers indicators off!  It’s not a matter of if but when some arse pulls out in front of me! Only issue I have with the bike really. What do you think?

So the faux carbon fibre on my end can is sun-faded/buring off and after a 2mph drop today it was the prompt to get it replaced.

So Im after a non-oem end can for my 2007 FZ1.

Any winter motorcyclists out there, next years Dragon is on the weekend of Feb 10/11. Tickets will be on sale very soon, all details on Conwy MCC website.

Alright I've a lot to talk about here as I've tried a lot of things so far.


basically after i got the engine back together i did the old spraying water on the headers to see what was happening. at that stage only 2 cylinders were firing. after taking the carbs out and completely rebuilding them now its working on 1-2-4 but 3 is cold. i put a brand new plug in cylinder 3 and moved the plug wire from 2 to 3 basically swapping them, didnt make a difference. when i did take them all out to check for spark they all have blue spark. I did notice a little bit of plug cap arcing from cylinder 4 cap but thats attached to a different coil and 1-4 are fine so even though its not ideal i dont think its the issue.
THE ISSUE HAS ALSO MOVED FROM 2ND BEING COLD TO NOW 3RD BEING COLD, so it has swapped a cylinder somehow after I cleaned the carbs


so my symptoms are as follows.


in first and second gear around 4k RPM I can hear the 3rd cylinder waking up and firing it kinda stutters as it begins to get fuel to the cylinder then firing perfectly on all 4 cylinders from that rpm onwards.


below 3k RPM taking off feels lumpy like an old steam train firing up  :rollin


tiny drop of fuel now and then out of the 2nd carb bank overflow




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now I did try a really rudimentary vacuum guage to sync the carbs but since then i did a bench sync and it feels way better, in high rpm it pulls very well. but maybe the 3rd cylinder is just miles off the rest. can carb sync issues cause a cylinder to not fire at all on idle?


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if anyone has ever had a similar issue or knows what could be happening id like to hear your opinions as running on 3 is better than 2 on idle circuit but id like to be using all cylinders  :'( 

i just want a list of things to try and hopefully i can get it back to being fully operational