hey guys,

Gotten a bit confused on the differences between the different models of the FZS 600, if you fellas could clarify them that'd be great for me!
I know that there was the original, the FZS600
Then the FZS600S came along, and then the foxeye.
Now my query was mainly about the tank size, I know the 600S onwards had a bigger tank, and also had preload adjusters on the forks, but what was the actual difference in tank size? For some reason I thought that the original was 17L, then the S was 18L, and the foxeye was 22L, is that the case?

So another Carb Sync thread in as many days Haven't seen this issue before though so figured a new thread would be best rather than hijack the other

My bike does not run well below 3k rpm and in traffic (less than 5mph) its basically like a bucking broncho unless you feather the clutch. Now this pointed to a carb sync problem in my mind and I knew I had trouble doing it last time but it wasn't that far out. In any case, I striped the tank off and got my Carbtune hooked up. It showed pretty much how I had left it last time (only like 3 months ago) where cylinder two was slightly lower than cylinder 1, 3 and 4 which were fairly close to each other. The problem I have though is that the needles do seem to jump around a significant amount compared to videos I've seen before. This time I managed to get a screwdriver down to balance 1 + 2 and now they are fairly close to each other and 3 + 4 are still close but 1 + 2 were slightly lower now than 3 + 4.

Now the strange thing (to me at least) was when I attempted to balance 1 + 2 with 3 + 4. When I adjust the middle screw, 1 + 2 hardly move anywhere though they do a bit. 3 + 4 however move quite a bit and when they raise, the engine RPM increases quite significantly. Balancing them with 1 + 2 means that the engine gets close to stalling and I've adjusted the idle a fair bit to compensate but the mmHg is around 200-210 instead of the advised 230-250 range

Some background; carbs were stripped and cleaned only three months ago and were balanced at the time (still had this jerking problem though). Engine has had new oil + filter, air filter is a K&N but not sure when it was put in - judging by the K&N website, it shouldn't need cleaning yet (based on how dirty it is), also tried moving the vacuum pipes around to make sure the gauges weren't faulty (they aren't). The engine does have 86k on it and it hasn't run "well" since I bought it - lack of care from previous owners basically.

TL;DR (Too long, didn't read)
Balancing 1+2 against 3+4 causes 1+2 to stay relatively where they are (between 200-210mmHg) and 3+4 to move wildly - as the mmHg for 3+4 increase, the RPM of the engine increases quite a bit (from say 1.1k to nearly 2k)

Guys,
  What settings do you find best to adjust the rear end, the front is a bit light after loading the luggage up, just a general tweak on the rear or what??

Hi all,
Planning to go to the French/Swiss/Italian Alps this August. Looked at the map and it looks like there is no alternative to the Mont Blanc tunnel which costs about £25 to go through. Qn is has anyone done this trip and has a better route. Used long tunnels before the Frejus one for ex (but that was because it was November and the alt over the top route was snowed up and only vehicules with winter tyres were allowed up it) so I don't have a prob with them just wanted to know if there was a better way of getting from Chamonix to the Italian side without a massive detour.
Cheers
Tommo

Hi Guys n Dolls, I have a couple of deep scratches on my tank and wondered if anyone has had the same problem (deep scratches) and how you've got round it?  I went to Halfrauds earlier today but they never had a black metallic repair kit, I think its Yamaha Black Pearl I'm after so any help will be appreciated.


Cheers  Rich

From cold when starting it immediately comes to life then over the next 2-3 seconds stops. Choke doesn't help. After another 2 or 3 goes and by then it will accept a little throttle to help thing along and all then is ok. At this point I use the choke for about 20 seconds to keep the idle at about 1300.I have owned the bike for 1 month and have hardly ridden it as not allowed to for 4 more weeks.It had sat in a garage unridden for 1 year prior.Bike has slip on, aftermarket jet needle and jets prof installed. I suspect adjusted TPS as tacho at 10K. When warm engine runs well no flatspots and produces great power.I have drained all of the old fuel out by removing the tank and letting the engine starve to cut off. Then new plugs and fuel, same problem but not quiet as bad.Carby removal and clean?Just exploring options, any advice would be appreciated.

I have sourced a complete genuine Yamaha clutch plate set,as to the springs is it worth going for an uprated spring set or is it best to stick to standard?

Hi all,

RIght I have a 99 boxeye FZS600.  Just noticed that the Fuel guage bulb is out, so it needs changing, figure I might as wll change all 3 whilst I'm in, but this leads me to a few questions:

1) I know the bulbs are 12V 2W, but I'm sure there are more than one type of bulb that meets these electrical specs, can anyone give me any pointers to the right type of 2W bulb before I open the panel up (and thus render the bike non usable to nip to the bike dealers for bulbs) ?

2) Are all 3 bulbs in the instrument panel the same?

As for changing the bulbs, I know from the old Haynes manual that you need to remove the instrumentation panel, now regarding that.

3) Do I need to take the fairing off, or can I get away with just removing the windscreen to get enough access to unbolt the instrument panel?

4) If I can get away with just removing the screen, any hints/tips/warnings?

5) If I do need to remove the full front fairing, any hints/tips/warnings?

Thanks in advance for all the help

ltcorwin

Still up for sale, my FZS 1000.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-100...4d0cb14088

As said previously, would consider a CBR600F or a foxeye 600 in part exchange against it, with cash my way?
Price is £2999.99 ONO, would like to get it sold quickly though so price could potentially be slightly flexible!

Hello everyone. I tried to balance my carbs today on my 2003 faxer. Its done 6000miles now. I adjusted carbs 1-4 but just couldn't adjust cylinder 2. The guage is lower than the rest. I tried another guage on it just incase the guage was faulty but its not and I got the same reading. I have also checked the carb rubbers. They are like new.. I am at  a loss. Please help me!!

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