Afternoon chaps.
I've got a 2000 FZS600 and the 3rd cylinder simply refuses to fire.
What I've done so far is fresh spark plugs, some used but working OEM coils with caps, I've had the carbs off and cleaned all the jets (3rd carb was actually blocked so I thought I'd solved the problem but nope) a compression test (with throttle fully open) and all 4 cylinders are within a couple of PSI to each other at around 175 which from my research is perfectly healthy. 
I've cleaned all the connections that I know of and have located from the battery all the way to the plug caps.
I've tried petrol down the cylinder just to see if it would fire at all.
I've tested the spark on cylinder 3 coil/plug and it's not the biggest and strongest spark I've ever seen but in my opinion it's strong enough to at least ignite the cylinder especially with a drop of fresh fuel.
The carbs are definitely getting fuel as is the cylinder because the carb bowls were all full after the rebuild and test.
I really can't think of anything else. 
I don't really have the spare cash at the moment to put it into a garage but I'm also wanting to try and fix it myself to learn as I go.
The only thing I haven't changed is the battery and it is a bit on the dodgy side having been run dead previously but after a good charge it fires all the other cylinders within a second or two of pressing the button.
Is it possible that could be the culprit and it's only effecting a single coil wire/plug cap?
I'm really wanting to get back on the road as a friends just got back into biking as well as my Mrs wanting to go out for rides as pillion.
Any suggestions would be very appreciated.

Does anyone have a coloured wiring diagram for the fz6SA 2004-7 round dashboard

Thanks

So I bought this for my FZ1 off amazon and got a refund, as it clearly dosen't fit, as its 2" too narrow. Here is the amazon link for it, so other FZ1 owners can be aware and avoid - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CXPCLGXS?psc=1. Apart from the size its looks indentical to the OEM one for my FZ1, so my question is what bike does it fit, so I can punt it on.
The product page said it was for an FZ8 and FZ1, but arent they basically the same bike, in the running gear dept?

   

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
       

  512HMzsrlgL._AC_SL1000_.jpg (Size: 31.96 KB / Downloads: 21)

Hi, good to belong to the owners club!
I bought my 2007 FZ6 S2 as my first bike after passing my test some years ago.
Often looked at alternatives but personally don't see anything coming close.
I know tech has moved on considerably but the comfort, speed, reliability and exhilaration of that in-line 4 is hard to beat!
Anyway! I am looking for tail storage for smaller trips. I want something that is accessible whilst situated on the bike (which I think rules out the wrap around option), easy to install and remove.
Wondered what experience there is out there on the best choice.
Thanks,
Alistair

Hi All,
I hope that I find you as well and as happy as you can be!
So, my Speedo packed up, along with mt Odo and I assumed that it was the usual problem of the Speedo Sensor rotor.
As I was a bit short on time I got my trusty bike guy to fit a replacement.
He did this and found that one lug had broken off of the old one.
Upon road testing my bike the speedo initially worked but when he took it on a more extensive test it failed again.
Something else that I noticed recently is that my fuel gauge has been glitching up and down.
He has suggested that it could possibly be the clock (circuit board) on the way out and the most economical way forward could be to get some second hand ones instead of racking up labour costs fault finding.
Has anyone had a similar thing?
I have the bike back for the moment as I need it for comuting and my bike guy is stacked out with other work and can't fit me in for a while anyway.
Making do with a speedo on my mobile phone for a moment as a guide.
I plan to take a look and make sure that the new rotor is ok and hasn't failed as this seems the most obvious  thing to start with.
Has anyone got any other fault finding tips that I can try?
Many thanks in advance for your help and advice!
Pete

Hi. 
I’ve returned to biking after many years (almost 30) and have bought a 2003 FZS600. It’s in great condition and I’m loving riding it.  
I’ve recently joined this forum and have already found loads of useful information but can’t find an answer to one small issue I have with my bike:
Sometimes when I’ve left it a few days and start it up in neutral, when I then try and put it into 1st, the clutch obviously hasn’t disengaged (even though I’ve pulled the lever!) and the bike stalls. The lever feels completely normal and generally, after I’ve forced it back into neutral and restarted it, the clutch is then completely normal, occasionally it takes a few goes before it ‘un-seizes’.  Sometimes I exercise the clutch a few times before starting and then it’s fine, other times not. Once running everything returns to normal. 
I suspect the clutch is ‘sticking’ on when left but, if that’s the case, I’d have thought the lever would feel stiff?

Any ideas??
Cheers.

Has anyone done the Ivans pod filter set up on their bike?

I've been fortunate enough to snatch his last 2 sets but as I understand it he won't be making anymore ?

Also with holeshot having closed their shop temporarily maybe that's a hole in the market!?

These are soon to find their way onto my nike along with the full monty+ appropriate main jets ti suit...

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
               

Hello everyone , 
New Fazer owner here. Looking at doing a headlight upgrade and although there's plenty already on here about this I just have a quick Q. 
Considering each side (Dipped and full ) work I dependently of each other, when I do the mod to make them both come on at the same time, will I have a full beam on the whole time ? Obviously this would cause issues. Or are there bulbs I can buy before that can work together but alternative between full/dipped. I have attached pics of current bulbs and a few of the bike for anyone Interested. Many thanks to the reedits lads for directing me here too. I'm sure they're all here too.  Thanks

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
               

I used muckoff dry lube but after leaving a bike unused for a couple of years in a shed the chain has completely seized I used the dry lube cause like the fazer I wont be riding in the wet but after googling it seems that is what can happen with the muckoff dry lube if you do not keep topping it up or it is subject to normal shed environment with a bit of damp .
I spent about 3 hours freeing every link buy bending back and forth with some oil so it wasn't like it was rusty.
So looking for advice on what to use,
 muck off wet 
3 in one
ACF 50
WD 40
Something else
Don't fancy paying £££ for exotic stuff although I know that ACF 5 falls into this category but I already have a tin of that for the

So Im replacing my front mudguard, as the old one cracked around the upper mounting points. And I dont know if this is because the previous owner fitted the t-washer/s incorrectly.

- First question is, when you guys have fitted/removed the mudguard, which directions did you have the t-washers? was it as per the yamaha/fowlers parts diagram? (see attached)

- Second question is with regards to the rubbers isolation gromets appear to be sided, which isnt indicated on the diagram. As in one side is the same outer diameter as the t-washer and the other sider has a smaller diameter. MU logica is I fit the gromets so the bigger side faces the t-washer.

ta.

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)