Replacement oil filters for the 2001-2005 FZS1000 and 2004-2006 FZ6 models.
Both in unopened boxes and now won't be used by me.

£12 (inc postage)

Free to a Foccer (apart from covering the postage - £12?)

Had this a long time up in the garage roof as a backup, but now taking up valuable space.

It's from a Boxeye 600 in that rare blue colour.
Make no mistake, this is currently a Frankenstein fairing - there are huge splits down both sides of the fairing. Amazingly, there are however no chunks missing out of it and all the inner plastic mounting points are both present and undamaged - not sure how that's possible(?!).  The right person could no doubt repair it.

Can mail pics if required.

My fairing lugs are pretty damaged - several broken in half and it was suggested I try plastic welding

Brought the tool ready for a winter project and it seems mainly for repairing cracks rather than creating new plastic

I want to repair the lugs by creating new plastic which I can drill fixing holes through which sort of requires me to sit the fairing on something while I add plastic to the broken lug- was thinking glass sheet but will the new plastic stick to that?

Anybody tried this successfully?

Ta

I haven't started this job yet, but looking at pics the original bearings were old style cup and cone. Suppliers like Marksman only sell a replacement tapered roller bearing. Converting to tapered on my old Fireblade didn't work out too well, as needed regular adjustment. What's best, source the original style or go with tapered.

The time finally came after 55000 miles and 22 years, my venerable Fazer needed its shock replaced, so I managed to find RMT1983's listing for R6 shock and dogbones on ebay (I had a voucher code I was itching to use, so I'm so glad I did). The rebound damping was progressively worsening, but not to the point where the bike was unrideable; you just knew that it wasn't going to track predictably into and out of corners. Given where I live in the Forest of Dean, the state of Mark Harper's roads leaves something to be desired, so rather than tolerating mediocre, worsening handling, I thought I'd figure out what all the fuss was about. Order got despatched when it was supposed to and ended up on my door 24 hours later, so props to Richard for getting it sorted (he did advise he wasn't going to be around when I clicked through ebay, but I didn't mind the wait)




First thing's first - Time to hot glue gun the washers onto the upper shock mount bushing, just so I won't fill up my swear jar when fitting the R6 shock. 



After soaking the mounting hardware in penetrating fluid, noting that the nuts may not have been detorqued since the day it left Japan, and trying to find the easiest way to access the upper mounting bolt, the shock was eventually out. It's defintely seen better days. 



Took the opportunity to grease the roller bearings and attend to the pitting. I was expecting a lot worse than what came out, given that my 07 R1's linkage was graunchy AF when I replaced my rear for a Nitron R2. A little bit of pitting was tolerable and cleaned up nicely. 



Installation is the opposite of reverse, other than the fact that the 10kg weight plate I had used to jack up the wheel was a few mm too narrow to enable the final linkage bolt on the dog bone to slot in without much persuasion or the bearing inner ring from being axially displaced. But once fully installed and torqued up to 40Nm, it was all grand



I took it for a quick 10 mile test drive around my local bump B roads and twisties, trying my best to test the handling against the free roaming sheep and wild boar and noted the following. 

- I'd need to get some recommended settings for a 14 stone rider front and rear; twisty and hilly A/B roads. Obviously, I'd dial in the sag first, so if anybody has any reference values, it would be useful. 

- The bike felt more composed on corner entry and exit. Back end wouldn't squat as much under acceleration, allowing me to roll on the throttle earlier. It just tracks over the undulation a bit better. That's most definitely expected, now that the shock has a damping circuit that isn't comprised of expired 22 year old damping fluid. 

- There isn't that latent understeer on fast sweepers, meaning that I can trust the bike a bit more; useful coming into autumn and winter. I now have greater feedback on weight transfer and steering. 

- Despite pulling the forks up through the yokes by 5mm, I may have to increase the compression damping or preload, just so the front doesn't dive as much and make it feel balanced with the rear. I did get my bike mechanic to rebuild the forks 4000 miles ago when the stanchions and seals went. 

- Given that the Fazer was only meant to be a commuting hack, I've put 10 times as many miles on this thing in the last 3 years than my R1, even on weekend blasts. I just find it more comfortable and flexible. Weird to think I've had her for 7 years. Was thinking about replacing it for a Speed Triple (either 1200 or 1050) or Tuono 1000/1100, but this bike owes me nothing and is ergonomically tweaked to my preferences. I might be getting old, having had IL4 sportsbikes the past 19 years, but just a few light touches and refreshes here and there means that I've got a purposeful, usable bike I can daily drive without fear of anything malfunctioning. 

As for Richard, well, it's a 2 thumbs up from me    Thanks for your help 



-

Not mine, but my son's bike, 2004 FZS1000 (he'll be along soon am sure) 
Small hole that sits between the two cap head nuts to #1 cylinder outer casting.
What's it for and why does it leak an oily fluid?

  FZS1000 HOLE IN HEAD.jpg (Size: 180.11 KB / Downloads: 46)

has anyone fitted Hagon progressive fork springs to their Fazer was thinking once i get it up and running as a i a fat bloke will need to beef up the suspension, Hagon shock for the back looks a good shout the front is nothing special I know so would this make a difference? 
Also read that moving up a thicker oil can help as well?

Is it worth spending the money or save for something more radical like front end swap or new bike?

I like riding position and lots of other things about the Fazer but don't want to throw money at it either if no benefits


cheers

Hi, guess mine is now nackered ( after 1/4 century & ca 300' k <: ) 
-usual signs last few years : gauge stayd on top F until it's just 1-2 liter left in the tank, then sudden dropps down to E  <: O
Tried to fix it but noticed that the tip of first of the 2 pickup is broken off, clean & fidle-fidle a bit.. but now the gauge just stays on E  : (

So
Any tip to fix it ?
or
where to get a new or a generic one ?
or
anyone has  one (in working order) laying around .. ?


thanks, Morty

Wanted: Bottom fork yoke, and
Fairing stay( part 5LV-28356-00) item #16 on Fowlers website. Must be undamaged, not bothered about paint condition. Hopefully someone will have something suitable in the shed, as need to get her back on the road. Thanks in advance.

Hi All,

A friend's 19 year old son is looking to get a bike.  He's currently looking at a few CAT N 125s and he's coming to me for advice.  Now, for me, I would never buy a cat N, be it a car or bike, maybe unless I knew the owner and the circumstances of the write off.

What are peeps thoughts on here?