these are rad covers that have been hydro dipped by aquagraphix the finish is stunning
coated in two pack clear to give a hard resilient long lasting finish
this is a spare pair i had done

£60 posted the pair

luke 07736008778

Hi guys I take ownership of my first fazer on saturday and cant wait I have had a couple of years on a ybr 125 custom not a good experience and passed my test in july second time around any way that is all behind me and hope I will have many fantastic years on this fabulous looking bike .  I am sure I will have loads of questions once I get it so roll on Saturday

Just a brief Hello to you all, picked up my 02 reg FZS1000 last week, Couple of nice ride outs over week-end, good little zap about today, what a seriously under rated bike, Love it, could be visiting here for quite a while. 

Just bought one. Impressed with it actually they seem very handy. Anyone else use one? I bought a scalarider

Well, I hope it won't turn out to be that!
So, the symptoms have been that approximately between 3-4k rpm, if I came off throttle very slightly, for instance when regulating throttle to match traffic speed, the bike gets a jerky stutter. It did it at exactly the same revs in every gear. As soon as I got clear of that rev band, it cleared so that above those revs it pulled cleanly and strongly just as it should. Below 3k it's a little glitchy, but no more so than I expect on these bikes (it hasn't been Ivanised yet). I have covered a little over 3000 miles in 2 months with these symptoms, and during that mileage the problem hadn't altered at all in any way. It doesn't do it if I accelerate through that rev band, only coming off throttle. And if I come off throttle slightly anywhere else in the rev range, it doesn't do it. If I come completely off throttle at any revs, the revs drop normally, there is no sticking that would suggest an air leak of noticeable proportion.
Today I had it looked at by a mechanic who was recommended to me. He cleaned the carbs, and noted that they were perfectly set up. Then I test rode it. It then only showed the symptoms at just about bang on 3k, instead of through a band of about 1000 revs. Still only when coming slightly off throttle, but every bit as bad at that point. He changed the plugs. I test rode it again, absolutely no further change. The old plugs came out a perfect light brown colour on all 4. (I've kept them as spares).
There was no time to investigate further today, but he said his next moves would be:
Ultrasonically clean carbs.
Check O rings at carb rubber-to-cylinder head face, as he said these can flatten down a bit and if even one was letting in just a little air it could cause the symptoms I'm experiencing.
We were both in agreement that it is not likely to be an electrical fault as a) it hasn't worsened with further use. b) it would likely be worse at higher revs if it was something electrical breaking down, ie, under heavier load. c) cleaning the carbs has improved things, although not eradicating the problem entirely. d) changing the plugs has made no difference. HT leads and plug caps are all in excellent condition.
There is some cracking in the carb rubbers, but it does not appear to have gone all the way through. The air filter appears to be in new condition.
We have decided for now that as Mike will be Ivanising it in September anyway (I hope - unless he disagrees), it might be an idea to see if this makes any difference to the problem.

Thoughts anyone?

is there an ignition cut off relay on the 2002 gen1??

ive look in the haynes manual & theres no ref to one in it so i googled it & nothing comes up on that either.

if it has, where is it located on the bike & what dose it look like?




justy1000

So i,m finally about to order my complete system (only waited about 4 months lol) but to partially fund it i will be selling the original down pipes,my question is what price do you think i should sell these for.I have seen them on E Bay going for £135 but do you guys think this is a realistic price or should i go a lot lower than this.
Regards Ady

I would love my optimism to kick in here but being realistic I think us Jocks are in for a bit of a hammering tonight

What do you guys think

Exactly how important is it to remove the bolt securing the damper rod from the bottom of the front forks when changing the oil / seals?

I can't get the bugger out - a combination of my shoulder still being a bit busted and not having any real way to clamp the fork lowers to prevent them from spinning unless I grow several more appendages...

Who's upgraded to it and thinks its better?

My first impressions of it are apart from a different layout its not much better.

Might come to like it though.

Discuss.