Still in the shed, its on ebay and if it deosnt fetch £1500 i will break it for spares...so if any one out there is needing anything please get in touch so I can have a idea..Its a complete running bike, with no faults, only thing to mention is we have removed the EXUP, and it was warped, and cables ruined.

Seems a shame, but the high miles must be putting people off, and i need it gone! in bits or whole.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200958228540?s...1555.l2649

HI,

I have just put my head back on after installing two new exhaust studs. The bike has been running perfectly before i removed the head.

Now when I fire her up she only runs on cyl 1 and 4.?? Hand test on the exhaust shows its 2 and 3 not firing.
Go figure? Plugs are ok, spark on each when held on the head. Coils ok, as I swapped them over to test and they ran on 1 and 4 again. Plugs are labelled 1 -4, easy.

I cant see it being the cams, you can only put them in one way......T timing mark on mag lined up ok, and both punch marks line upwards (cams are labeled I and E so you can get it wrong)I only undid the sprocket on the exhaust to get the chain off, as its at the front and easier to get at.

So im now wondering if a bit of crud got dislodged in the carbs when i removed them. Any thoughts peeps?

Hi, I have a weird problem that I don't see how it can happen with a mechanically actuated clutch. I've just installed new clutch plates (EBC) and uprated springs. Unsurprisingly the clutch lever feels a bit heavier, but otherwise OK. Clutch bites strongly, which is great, and slips well for slow riding.
Problem is that if I slow ride for a minute or two (practising!) the clutch bite point slowly moves, to the point that it starts to engage with the lever fully pulled in. Clearly then the engine would soon stall as the bite point continues to move.
Then after a short 'rest' the bite position is back to normal, and operation is fine. This problem consistently happens when I practise slow riding. Otherwise in normal use its all fine. My real concern is that it'll gradually worsen and then end up not being usable for normal riding.
But how can this happen - it's all mechanical. It's behaving like an hydraulic clutch where the master cylinder seal is starting to leak! I'm not a novice with clutches, I ran a fireblade engine in a kit car and that puts a lot of stress on the clutch!
Any advice would be much appreciated.

As above .
2001 . Blue 23,000 miles ,very clean, extras inc,
Yamaha rack,undertray,hugger,yamaha mushrooms,scorpion can ,gear indicator,alarm.
All consumables are very good,
Taxed and mot
Gravesend Kent area,
£2000,
Email for pics if interested.
will try and post some .

anyone going ?......sunday 15 september ......www.ace-cafe-london.com

Ok let's settle this once and for all, blue is best and the fastest lol :lol

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Anyone ridden around lydden track?
Thinking of doing a day there on 21st Sept but know nothing about it, never seen it. Just happens to be close to where I'm going to be that week

The Fzs 600 has a few weak points in the front sprocket nut, the exhaust, second gear and the rear caliper. Does the Fzs 1000 have any common problems areas?

I've always said it wouldn't be long...  :'(

http://news.sky.com/story/1135815/eu-may...to-uk-cars

Went out for a ride today only to be covered in oil from the little allen cap beside the oil level window.
Tried tightening it but it just fell apart in my hands anyone know what its purpose is/what its called  or where to get one from

Its an allen bolt with a rubber O ring?

Thanks in advance
Tone