Hi, im getting occasional 7k fault code on start up, which seems to go when riding.
Only recently fitted replacement valve which was missing when bought bike, pulley cables and servo all original.


I've checked and adjusted cables on fitting new valve, valve rotates freely and well lubed.


Followed Pats guide to setup.


What I have noticed is even though I align pulley at 9 o'clock position and set cables to 1.5mm slack, with ignition back to on after a run the pulley does not return to 9 o'clock position.
See pic, it's not far off though.
With engine running it moves to 10 o'clock position and as I increase revs to 4k it start to move clockwise.


It seems to be working sort of OK.


Could it be the cables are not adjusted correctly...not enough slack?
Servo not working correctly?


I was thinking if I disconnected top cable and tried ignition on and see if it resets to 9 o'clock position, thus seeing if top cable was preventing bottom cable from rotating valve to full reset position?


Any thoughts much appreciated


Cheers

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Patiently removed all of the stuff to get access to the valves, what a faff. And having done all that, the chuffin valves don't need any shims as all within spec. Inlets tolerance is 0.13 to 0.20, mine are between 0.15 and 0.17. Exhaust tolerance is 0.23 to 0.20, mine come in at 0.25 to 0.28. Just the new gaskets to order now, and then try to squeeze it all back together

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hi guys as the title asks , we know the mk1 has the drive sprocket issue or rather the drive shaft IS the issue, was this rectified by mk 2 foxeye or did this continue into this bike too ?
another question are  the boxeye and foxeye  seat the same ? fundamentally i think one was thicker ? but would the boxeye seat fit on the foxeye frame ?  thank you.

Hiya fellas,


Need some advice as I simply can't work this out.


Starting a new job soon and would probably need to use the Dartford crossing regularly. I know it's free for bikes to cross and know it's an easy filter tnrough the tailbacks.


Question is.......how the hell can you be expected to be let in to the manned booth for the crossings. It's not like going up the outside of traffic in London etc.


Do you just bully your way in and cause a row ??


Anyone use the crossing regularly and can advise of the best approach ?


Any advice as always is much appreciated


Cheers

Looking to possibly get another Fazer thou  8)

As title looking for a Gen 2 preferably with ABS and 2010 onwards. Feel free to message me with what you've got or know of. I'm based in north Hampshire and not looking to travel the other side of the Country. Thanks

I came out of work the other day and found my Gen 1 laying on its side  :'(


A few bent and cracked pieces which I have mostly now found.


I need an offside crash bung, the one with the blue metal support that holds the nylon bung. The blue support has 'bent' but luckily the bike frame is still fine.


Does anybody have one they are willing to sell?


Thanks

Hi


Anyone have a devil shotgun exhaust for sale?


Thanks
Ian

Shame plod didn't nudge it earlier - the suspended sentence means nothing as the scrotes will take no notice of that.


https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/uk-england...e-63396667

[Edited to fix the tiny font: GrahamM]

Hi re changing the stopper arm return spring and/ or the shaft centralising spring, does oil need to be drained and oil pump taken off as per Haynes manual. Is this a very technical job? I have replaced the clutch springs, plates and clutch cable so far without too much trouble!!

Hey all just an introduction into the FZS600 we’ve bought for my fiancées first bike. Not really asking anything specifically, I’m sure any questions I want to ask are answered elsewhere on the forums. That said if anyone would like to chime in with their knowledge and experience that would be very welcome - doesn’t hurt to have as much info as possible in one place for easy reference. Cheers in advance.

So we’ve bagged a slightly tatty (but dirt cheap) 99 model in Silver, 43,000 miles which handles and stops pretty well. New tyres, braided brake lines and the ‘two on dip beam’ headlight mod already done. Still a good bike in this day and age I think, plus the slightly rough round the edges  bodywork on it along with crash bungs makes it not too much of a worry if it suffers a low speed novice drop.

The problem is that it doesn’t seem to have the get up and go that I feel a 90 odd horsepower bike should. I appreciate a few of those horsey’s may have escaped over the last 23 years but even so, I’ve ridden early bandits that have more pep in them and that can’t be right surely??! My own bike is an ever so slightly more powerful ZX-12R so my seat of the pants dyno may be skewed but I don’t think so. But as with all new to me used bikes it got a bit of a service with oil and filter, plugs, air filter and fuel filter. The old plugs showed that servicing wasn’t high on the agenda for the previous owner.

So anyway the issues. it has an erratic idle with an offbeat exhaust note and honestly feels a bit wheezy on acceleration. I figured it was cheap so I can throw a little bit of money at it. So the investigation started…the first thing I found was a pair of downpipes warming up slower than the other two when sprayed with a mist of water. Trimmed back the HT leads and fitted new NGK caps and that was sorted, checked the tps adjustment and balanced the carbs. Still no improvement so starting to wonder about the carbs but in my experience they are best left alone until you’re sure that’s the problem.

My doubts lie with the TPS, it needs adjusting every time I look at it (although this has been before and after carb balancing) and doesn’t seem to settle dead on 5000 rpm when in test mode, sits at around 5200 so I don’t know if this is significant or a fault in the clocks. The resistance reads and increases fine as you open the throttle on the left/middle terminals (black and yellow wire connectors if I recall correctly) however the two outer terminals (blue/yellow??) are reading 8.3 ohms - significantly higher than the specs listed in the Haynes manual? Also running the bike with the TPS disconnected doesn’t make it any worse (in fact other than the rev counter showing it as a fault it makes no difference at all).

So I’m planning to get a new one, a used one on eBay or similar could be no better. Found a post on here about a Hyosung bike using the same sensor (can’t remember who posted it but thank you whoever you are) for far cheaper than Yamaha.

Any opinions here before I pull the trigger? It seems to be common with the TPS on our aging bikes. I’m planning to pull the carbs anyway once winter sets in hard, the camchain tensioner also needs some attention as that sewing machine noise drives me mental!!

Anyway thank you for reading, probably typed far too much but wanted to paint as full a picture as possible. Cheers gang, looking forward to hearing from you and hope my experience with this might help others in the future.

Darren.