Hi folks, just bought a (fairly cheap) 2000 Fazer 600 with 19,000 miles on. It sounds like the cam chain has a rattle. The oil level is correct and I just took the tensioner out and there is lots of clicks left on it so am I right in thinking the chain is not worn? I put the housing back on and torqued it up then put the ball bearing, double spring and the other ball bearing in then the cap and torqued. Carbs back on and the noise is still there. Any suggestions, I can’t imagine the cam chain is nackered after 19,000 miles. Are there any tricks or tips to get the tensioner to come out a bit more? I tried the rear wheel in gear backwards but this didn’t help either. I’m stumped at the mo. Noise eventually goes after a few miles once fully warmed up.  :'(

Generous, romantic chap that I am, took the wife out for lunch today, to CMC motorcycles Clay Cross (had to pick up a part). Conversation went:


"Are you looking at the bikes while you're here?"
"Nope, cant afford another one"
"If you want another, then just get one, you're 71 next month and you cant take it with you".


I almost choked on the bacon cob.

Hiya fellas,


Thought it might be worth punting this thread up due to the time of year. New members/new riders etc......might help.


Link      https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=21527.100

Morning ladies and gentlemen, and thank you for the warm welcome to this helpful place.


I’m Sam,


Bought a 2000 FZS 600 with 6k miles that has been stood for 9 years (£560) so seemed a bargain. Was sold as a none runner but luckily found it to the the older Datatool alarm system so I bypassed it and she fired up after a whiff in the air box. Now I know she will start (fingers crossed)Carbs are off (that was fun ?? and cleaned) I’ve renewed all filters,plugs,fuel,etc and now looking at the engine as it has flaking paint to the top end block ((bottom like new)


Can these be sprayed in situs? I will take the lump out if needs but was hoping not to, also the fork seals are in good condition but the dust covers definitely not… any advise as I’ve ordered done covers and hoping it’s an east job lol

SOLD

[Edited to fix the tiny font problem: GrahamM - Moderator] Thanks GrahamM

Rear light for FZS600 Fazer converted to LED.  Just plug in using the factory loom. £20

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SOLD

I don't seem to have any wear indicators on my front brake pads.....unless I've gone past them!


Thought I'd have a centre groove or upturned corner....according to manual?


Do they need changing yet?

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Noticed while checking the valve clearances, that the timing chain doesn't look to be sitting in the root of the sprockets/gears. It look the same where it passes over all of the sprockets/gears. Ordinarily, I would expect not to be able to see daylight between the bottom of the chain and the teeth but I'm no expert, so can anyone tell if this is how it normally sits?

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Hi, im getting occasional 7k fault code on start up, which seems to go when riding.
Only recently fitted replacement valve which was missing when bought bike, pulley cables and servo all original.


I've checked and adjusted cables on fitting new valve, valve rotates freely and well lubed.


Followed Pats guide to setup.


What I have noticed is even though I align pulley at 9 o'clock position and set cables to 1.5mm slack, with ignition back to on after a run the pulley does not return to 9 o'clock position.
See pic, it's not far off though.
With engine running it moves to 10 o'clock position and as I increase revs to 4k it start to move clockwise.


It seems to be working sort of OK.


Could it be the cables are not adjusted correctly...not enough slack?
Servo not working correctly?


I was thinking if I disconnected top cable and tried ignition on and see if it resets to 9 o'clock position, thus seeing if top cable was preventing bottom cable from rotating valve to full reset position?


Any thoughts much appreciated


Cheers

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