Take a look at this. Pretty impressive results I would say.
I for one can't wait for this to be applied to motorcycles. Less weight, smaller, lower centre of gravity engines, 47% more power, 45% more torque and 15% more fuel efficiency. Got to be the future.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=S3cFfM3r51...0Tfbg29ijQ

was chatting today when walking around Webbs and saw the Tracer and it came up in conversation why there's so many low mileage ones up for sale at the moment and almost ever since launch. What is it that people don't like? Can't think it was the hype like the new R1 or MT10, just seems odd so many under 5k miles for sale...

All the best for the upcoming year guys. I sincerely hope that 2017 brings you all health,wealth and happiness,and if you have enough of them three already. Maybe some other stuff that you think is groovy  :lol

Right looked this one up and could only find a previous thread about why it was called 'pass' switch.

I was checking the lights today and found that everything seems to be working as it should using relevant switches.

But when you use the 'pass' switch if no lights on doesnt produce a flash, if lights are on just stays same not getting any main beam - suggests problem is at the switch,

The million dollar question is does this need fixed before MOT or will it wait? -  as all the lights do work ? - do they test the flash function?

Nice dry day here today so i thought ideal to take next seasons bike for a quick run as id never been more than couple of miles and i finished all jobs on it.anyhow starts off button perfect--ticks over perfect--accelerates through gears perfect--very fast very smooth --now heres the thing if i am trundling along in traffic in 4th or 5th gear and try to accelerate away the bike sounds like its running on 3 cylinders and has no pull at all drop a gear and it pulls off as it should and continues through gears as normal--never came across this in 20 years riding any info /ideas appreciated thanks--

Bike had been sat for a couple of weeks, started her up after a few goes but she'd cut out at 4000rpm?  Once she was running for a while and I'd taken her for a spin everything's normal.  Is this normal for a bike been sat for a while or is it a sign of something I need to be servicing/looking at?

So just reading the news and it seems they are introducing theory tests as part of the CBT from 2018?
What do we think of this?
I personally think it's just another money making scam. I dont think The theory test adds anything to driving other than expense, proven by the fact that most seasoned drivers/riders couldn't pass it these days.
I also think this will dramatically reduce the amount of legal youths on mopeds/125s as if they fail it and get told No then theyll just think they may aswell risk riding without it?  After all its not as is they have a license to lose?

Hi Guys,
I have been working on my suspension of late and have done a few significant modifications to both the front and rear ends.
[size=1em]The Rear Modifications:[/size]
Firstly I purchased a new Nitron rear shocker, it was built with the correct spring and settings for my riding weight and riding style.
Whilst replacing the shocker I stripped out the linkage and cleaned all the needle bearings and repacked with grease, I was surprised as there was still quite a bit of the original grease still in the bearings, they were showing no sign of wear  :-)


The Front Modifications:
[size=1em]For the front forks I purchased a pair of YSS Cartridge Emulators from Wemoto.com.[/size]
(YSS Model PD310 for the 2002-2003 FZS 600 Fazer)
To facilitate the operating of the Emulators the Damper Rods need to have more holes drilled through them to overcome the damping effect of them. YSS recommend that 6 X 8mm holes be drilled in them to achieve this.
I went a slightly different route because the damper rods on the 2002-2003 FZS 600 are shorter (190mm) than the earlier Boxeye model (210mm), I was concerned about encroaching on the upper chambers of the forks when the forks are on full compression by drilling the 3 X Double (6) 8 mm holes. 3 X 8 = 24mm, plus 2 X 10 mm minimum spaces between holes = 44mm extension up the damper rods.
[size=1em](using the centre of the original damper hole as a datum point)[/size]
I opted for 2 X Double (4) 10mm holes with one 15mm spacebetween them = 35mm, also to give me a little more lea way I used a fine chain saw file to lower the original 5mm damper hole centre by another 3mm, before drilling the 10 mm holes. 2 X 10mm = 20mm, plus 1 X 15mm space = 35mm, and as I had lowered my starting point by 3 mm, the extension up the damper rods is now 32mm as opposed to 44mm.

The general settings for the YSS Emulators is two full turns in (For lighter (?) togged rider) on the Emulator adjusting screw from initial emulator spring contact with the valve, I set mine to 3 full turns as I am 88-89 Kilos togged ready to ride (14 Stones).
This setting I am fairly happy with although 3.5 turns might have been better coupled with 15 weight Silkoleen Pro Fork oil.
Whilst doing this work I replaced the original Yamaha progressive fork springs with Ohlins 8.5 N/mm linear springs, again more suited to my weight. 

The Outcome:
Firstly I am really pleased with the overall improvement with the bikes handling, I have heard terms like ‘The bike feels more planted’ and ‘I feel more confident cornering now’ and that ‘The bike turns in better now’ and to be honest I think the terms that have been used are accurate.
[size=1em]There is a twisty bumpy lane near me (1/3rd mile Rat Run) that has quite a few holes and uneven surface areas (Not fair to call them Potholes) but it’s a lane that I ride at about 35 - 40 MPH because it shakes the crap out of me and because I know that the bumps and pits are coming up I tend to brace myself ready for them (Wrong, I know) and the bumps travel up the forks and give me stick in wrists, elbows and shoulders and generally p----s me off.[/size]
I found myself riding down said lane the other day at about 50 mph thinking to my self could go faster,
Of course I was still feeling the bumps, but, they are not jarring anymore and the bike feels much more stable.
Since then I have taken the bike out on the infamous A272 in Hampshire (Petersfield to Winchester) a sweeping road that is great for biking, (Be warned speed cameras are a regular feature along its length) 
I have noticed that powering hard out of corners the forks tend to feel as if they topping a bit, so I may need to replace some of the fork oil with a higher viscosity oil or is that lower?, to stiffen/slow up the rebound as bit. This should also help with the compression damping and might mean I have no need to adjust the emulator setting by another ½  a turn.
I have 30 weight Silkoleen Pro fork oil on order. I will replace 100ml of the 15 weight with 100ml of 30 and see how that feels, I understand this to be fine tuning.
I feel that this a worthwhile mod and I also feel that it has been a great improvement to the bike, not just the handling but also the comfort.
The only setback is that without purchasing another set of Damper Rods this is an irreversible mod.

There are often sets of Fazer FZS 600 forks on eBay for sale, and if they are bent in some ways so much the better as they will be cheaper. The stanchions usually bend from the point where the stanchion enters the bottom sliders so the damper rods should be unaffected.

There is always a disclaimer with any information or advice:
Anyone doing this mod, especially the front forks does so entirely at their own risk.
I have only put pen to paper (Finger to keyboard) as an information sharing exercise and not as a guide or a recommendation to anyone.

One last thing.
Some say there are better and financially cheaper ways of improving the rear suspension.
There is a member on FOC-U (DevilsYam) that can supply you with a modified R6 mono shock to fit your Fazer and he will set it up for your weight and riding style, he also will supply the necessary dog bones and fitting instruction for considerably less than I paid for my Nitron Mono shock.
You might find you can save yourself a small fortune.

There is nothing wrong with the Nitron but it is pricey.
There is also a serial front suspension moder on here (Kebab19) You can search for his advice on the front fork mods.
I have used his advice in the fork mods that I have done.
[size=1em]I am now looking forward to seeing those 5/8 inch chicken strips on my back tyre slowly diminishing.[/size]
[size=1em]tommyardin

[/size]

I am selling a Bagster tank cover I bought off eBay for my Fazer . Unfortunately it doesn't fit my year 2000 box eye as it was removed from a year 2002 fox eye , which has a different shaped tank so it will not fit mine. 


The strange thing is that the cover is  red/black/silver ; the same as my bike's tank , which is why I thought it would fit.


The cover is in good condition but for one clip which is broken. I have a new clip , which will be supplied . I think this would be an easy fix for someone handy ( not me then ! ).


pm me if you want some pictures


Looking for £30 to include p&p.

Hiya

Hope you've all had a good Christmas

Just looking for abit of advice if possible, as i'm relatively new to bikes.

I've noticed over the past few months that the bike hesitates when accelerating, usually for the first 5-10 minutes or directly after riding very slowly for a period of time (I practice going in and out of cones, u-turns,, etc in a local car park). I've found that if I accelerate hard enough that it seems to clear.

However today I started the bike up as it's been sat outside for a week without running. I noticed coolant coming from the Cylinder Head weep/drain hole on the left side, the liquid was green. After turning the bike off and leaving it for 15 minutes I restarted it but after running it for 15 minutes but no further coolant came from the drain hole. I checked above the engine for leaks and couldn't find any, so I'm thinking it may be internal.

Just wondering what could be the cause of coolant coming from the weep hole? I'm putting two and two together and thinking that a gasket/seal may have gone that is leaking into the spark plug cavity which may be causing the hesitation and leakage. Just not that familiar with bikes to locate the seals that may be the cause, anyone able to point me in the right direction?

Cheers in advance!!

Martin