I have a feeling my rear shock is goosed so was wondering if anyone has anything available at the moment once i confirm that it's fooked?
Probably best for me to go for some sort of upgraded one that's ready to fit preferably, i don't want an OEM 600 one again.

Anyone got one (or 6) of the mentioned going spare? No prices for guessing what numbnuts here has done fitting a double bubble...


Cheers


Kye

Hello folks.


Can anyone point me in the direction of the short loom for the side lights at all please? I need the length with the rubber bulb holder and clip. I'm upgrading to LED side bulbs and need to fit a resistor kit.


Cheers!!


Kye

i took the old girl out for a blast to blow off the cobwebs and started her up on centre stand and with the choke on (revs high while warming ) the rear wheel starts turning but really fast like it's in gear but it's not and it's got a fair bit of torque behind it ( can't slow it or stop it with me boot ) which goes when the clutch pulled in and the wheel slows is this normal ?? my 600 don't do it.
The clutch is very noisy with the lever out ( goes when pulled in ) but it's recently been serviced by Yamaha stealer and I asked them to check the clutch ok due to the noise and it being a new (to me ) bike and to check adjustment. They said clutch was ok when I picked it up and noise was normal.
Gear changes are ok cold but as engine warms the changes get clunkier and neutral a bit harder to find, and sometimes if at lights with clutch in it feels like it's creeping but the lever bite is quite high i.e. As the lever released it bites just prior to the lever going back to its rest position
Also don't know if this is related but vibration is now bad and all fairing in fills vibrating badly when revving and when engine warm it gets worse feeling it through my feet , and higher the revs worse the vibes.
Anyone got any clues ? I've done a search through posts on vibration and there are of course loads that are clutch related but nothing come up on a search for the wheel turning in neutral.
I'm thinking an overhaul of the clutch is on the cards but im grateful for any help or advice

a mucker is looking for a 600 anybody got one for sale ( box or fox )

Anyone had issues with theirs?  Quite a few I imagine.

So, after a gruelling day at work and me feeling like I had lead weights attached to every part of my body, I finally finished and trotted of the bike shed for a ni9ce easy ride home and to be able to slip onto my nice warm sofa with a nice warm mug of coffee but nooooo!  Couldn't disable the immobiliser, great I think, new batteries in the fob perhaps.  So, a 1/2 hour trek around town to find somewhere that did the correct batteries.  Eventually found some, trek back to office, new batteries....no good!

Phone call to wife to find the second fob I have.  Took her another half an hour to find it, then another 20 minutes to get to me, new fob.....no good!

Phone call to motorcycle centre who I bought the bike from who were kindly able to come and fetch the bike and, hopefully [today], rip out the darn thing.

Ended up getting home 3 hours after I should have done and still had to move everything from the living room up two flights of stairs ready for the new carpet to be fitted today.  So....Fuck you Meta  :lol

[/rant]

[size=1em]After recently doing some suspension modding on my FZS600, I have been reading a lot about bike/suspension set up and there is one thing that is confusing me.[/size]
[size=1em]Nearly all stuff I have both read (On-Line) and watched (YouTube) say that it is important to set the static (Just weight of motorcycle) sag before doing anything else.[/size]
[size=1em]This procedure is: [/size]

[size=1em]Raise the front of the bike off the ground, to allow front forks to be fully extended. (Centre stand with a prop under the engine) measure from the top of  the fork leg oil seal to the underside of the bottom yoke. Mine is exactly 150mm fully extended (Now there a coincidence)[/size]

[size=1em]Set the bike back on its wheels (Off the stand) and bounce the bike up and down a few times without using the front brake and allow the bike to settle under its own weight and remeasure the distance from the top of the fork leg oil seal to the underside of the bottom yoke again. Deduct this figure from you fully extended measurement and you have static sag. Mine is 126mm giving me 24mm of Static Sag on the front end.[/size]

[size=1em]The procedure for the rear of the bike is much the same by getting the weight off the back wheel (Just centre stand will do that ) but you will need to stick a parcel or paper label on the rear seat fairing vertically above the rear wheel axle, measure the fully extended measurement up from the underside of the axle (Sprocket side is easier as no exhaust can in the way) and put a pen mark on the label as a datum point (I used 450 mm)[/size]

[size=1em]Set the bike back on its wheels, bounce up and down on the back of the bike a few times just to settle the suspension and allow the bike to come to rest under its own            weight, then measure the distance from the underside of the axle to your datum mark you put on the paper label earlier. Mine is 432mm from the original 450mm measurement giving me 16mm of static sag.[/size]

[size=1em]The next procedure is to set the Rider Sag, again this is taken from the full extended suspension measurements. My front forks full extended 150mm as above, my back shocker fully extended (Using datum mark 450mm), now the rider with all his riding gear on, leathers, boots, gloves and bucket sits on the bike bounces a few times, without touching the brakes and the measurements are taken again, this measurement is then deducted from the fully extended measurement and the remainder is your rider sag.[/size]

[size=1em]Ideal rider sag, now there seems to be a plethora of opinions on this and I think it could be to do riding style, or whether the bike is used for commuting or for track day events, or maybe just personal preferences. The figures I am going to aim for and that seems to be the most commonly occurring figures for a road bike (spirited riding style) is 40mm front rider sag and 30mm rear rider sag.[/size]

[size=1em]Now here is the rub, that which causes me confusion, why do we have to go through the static sag  process at all? Because if the rider sag is not within the measurements we are looking for, we adjust our pre-load to get to those measurements, we have now undone all the static sag setup we went through. All the measurement for Static and Rider Sag are taken from the fully extended measurements.[/size]

[size=1em]A couple of mates are very useful when setting up these sag measurements to hold the bike upright without either applying up or down force when the measurements are taken, plus you will be sitting on the bike for rider sag measurements.      [/size]

I'm going to fit a new set of plug caps some time and would rather not pay over £200 for a set, so those of you who use the NGK ones and ride through winter, would you recommend them?
My local dealer obviously only recommends OEM parts and says the cheap ones let water in, seizing the plug in the head. From what I've seen, the NGK caps have much smaller seals so I could well believe it, but does this happen in the real world? Obviously they'd be ok if your Fazer is a summer time toy, but are they fit for regular wet weather use?

A drug dealer was shot by police in a planned operation. Local MP's calling for calm etc...
All the would be gangsters out there need to realise that the biggest gang in town rightly is in fact the Police.
I feel for his family, but if you want to play gangsta expect to get shot.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-leeds-38505164

Hi

Time to get started on servicing the "new to me" thou and as it did not come with a service history, does anyone have a spread sheet / Word document type thing I can use to keep track of my servicing? It's a 13 year old, ~40k mile bike, so not going to bother getting it dealer serviced for "resale" reasons, but do want to keep track of what I've done. Also, I can staple receipts for parts to the document to prove at least I've taken care of it!

If not, I guess I'll just print out from the service manual, write down the milage and tick the things off as I do them, but assume someone's created something I can steal!

cheers

Markie

PS I won't ask what oil people are using