Hi All,

I'm the 2nd owner of a 2012 FZ8. I noticed that the clutch does not seem to fully disengage especially when the bike is warm. For example, when stopped at lights with the engine running, it is sometimes difficult to get to neutral or change gear. While stopped in 1st, if I let the brakes off, there is a small about of drive to the back wheel. But not always. On a journey the problem shows at some stops and then not at others.

I've put up with it till now, but today I stripped the clutch to see if there was anything amiss. All the clutch plates appear flat and measure within the correct thickness. The friction plates are all between 116 and 121 thou. The metal plates are all around 80 thou - don't know the right measurement for those. The springs are the right length. There is no discernible play in the gearbox input shaft. I noticed some play in the outer basket - the one driven by the engine which I measured as 0.004 at the outer edge. I guess that is play in the bearing the runs around the gearbox input shaft.

Also I noticed that the nut at the end of clutch cable at the gearbox end was loose. Could someone kindly describe how that is meant to be fitted. This could be the cause of the problem.

Thank you

[img alt=]https://foc-u.co.uk/data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img] Ken

Hello, i have been silently reading many posts this past year since i bought my FZS600 and this forum really helped me a lot.
So i will try to describe my problem. I transformed an old but in good condition bike to a cafe racer. The bike had 40k KM on the clocks. I changed oil, sparkplugs etc. Did a complete service. The bike was working perfectly before and after the service, i even put some fuel cleaner suggested in this forum to clean the carbs even though they didnt have any problem. Then i synced the carbs myself.

I did 700KM since then without any problems. I only ride at weekends.


1 week ago i intalled some "dog bones" to make the bike higher up by 40mm. It transformed the bike riding wise. I did a quick 5 minute run around the block and was so happy. I am not sure if that did something to the bike but since then it all started.


Then at  night i decided to do a ride and after 1 km of riding my bike turned off at a traffic light. This never happened before... I quickly pressed the starter and it fired up ok. Then after 50 meter when i opened the throttle the bike was misbehaving. Like it was out of fuel or something even though it had half tank inside. I thought it will pass and after another 100 meter the bike cut off. like i turned the ignition off. Pressed the starter 20 times and the bike was not turning on. Waited 20 minutes trying to see if something was moved and i tried again.

The bike turned on ok and the throttle was responsive. Then after 100m it cut off again. And was not starting..
After many many attempts when it started i had to open full throttle with first gear and the bike was running at 10km like it only used 1 cylinder.. and when it reached 6k rpm it all cylinder fired up like crazy and then when i had to brake it turned off again.. and i had to do this 100 times until i got back home.

I visited a mechanic today but i m asking here if some of you have any ideas so i wont be ripped off.


Thanks and sorry for the long post.

This topic has been moved to FZS600 Fazer.

[iurl]https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=27749.0[/iurl]

hello everybody recently removed the ais on my fazer 1000 took it for a proper run today.its got a ivans kit on it plus a akraphovic pipe not running smoooth on constant throttle and the end of the pipe is black with soot. ran perfect until i did  the ais also i use shell vpower thanks

For Sale ***SOLD***


As new Bull-it (Covec) reinforced bike jeans (Black)
38 Waist / 32 Leg
Classic western 5 pocket style, boot cut leg, mesh lined, also has a quilted section in pelvic area for extra padding.
These came with low spec armour, so I upgraded to a higher spec hip & knee armour, much like D30 as it reacts to slow or fast impacts.
Button fastening at waist, zipped fly.


Just been washed, so ready to wear.
From a smoke & pet free home.


£70 posted.

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
               

My 2003 Fazer has been unused since about 2015. For time it's been in a garage. This summer I've bought a new battery and changed the petrol. When I press the ignition button it turns over, and seems to want to start, but just won't.


Could it be because the petrol between the fuel tank and the carbs is still the old stuff? If so is it a question of trying and retrying until the new fuel reaches the engine? Or are there other likely causes?


Thanks for any help.

This topic has been moved to FZS600 Fazer.

[iurl]https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=27761.0[/iurl]

why does the 3rd cylinder show low compression (70 psi) and the others are good (200-210 psi) on 2 different mk1 600 fzs engines all are cold readings as engines are not in bikes

hi all, anyone know what the engine cylinder compression test should be in psi for a good engine, ive done the test cold on s/hand engines i have bought before fitting in the bike, but so far the reading on 2 engines both show the 3rd cylinder is about 50psi less than the other 3 ?, thanks for any help

Hi chaps
I guessing the two pipes exiting at the bottom of the engine,are carb overflow pipes
Tia