hi guys
best way to clean them
and how small is the hole that goes through them,bit of wire brush be small enough
cheers

Last year I bought a new seat cover from Sitzfleisch, because mine had a little tear. The time has came to install it, and at the same time raised the front of the foam a little with adding seat foam from a scrapped car seat. This is easier said than done... Don't like to slip forward while riding, that's my reason for this. Did the work, next was installing the cover, which is a quality product, I recommend them (not affiliated). There's 3 versions of seat covers, normal, comfort, diamond. https://www.sitzfleisch.eu/products/yama...3637558597 I bought the comfort version.

Hi all!

I've got a poorly, misfiring, Fazer at the moment. Looking to do all the usual checks (plugs, caps, leads, coils, carb balance, etc). I'd also like to check the TPS but there is a problem... There is in aftermarket speedo/tacho unit on the bike which means I can't see any error codes, or any info from the TPS configuration mode.

Can the TPS setting become invalid after time? I took the carbs off, to give them a bit of a clean, but left the TPS on and didn't touch it. Assumed that it would be fine. The bike was working fine once, which means it was set correctly and hasn't been reset since. Is it likely that the TPS will need adjustment?

If so, can it be done with a multimeter? I've checked that the resistance is in range. And checked the varience in resistance when the throttle is open/closed. All is fine.

Not been on here for some while, so someone may have asked this question previously. Why hasn't the FZS600 attained the sought after cult type following that the RD250 / RD350 (for instance) has?  After all the Fazer is a good looking reliable classic bike every bit as desirable as the earlier strokers, in my opinion.  I,ve had my FZS600 from new (13/06/1998) and it's still a nice bike to ride, still all original, pristine condition, passed every MOT first time, but It seems that at 25years old it's only worth about £2K. Surely these early Fazers are undervalued as the RD's are fetching £5k - £10K!  Thoughts?
 

Hey I decided to create a post summarizing my first restoration ever, on my fzs 600 98 my first bike.




Ive already dismantled it and went through virtually every part of the bike, only a few minor things have to be finished off. and I am trying to keep it as close to original as possible with only a new exhaust system, seat cover  grips and levers  and some hoses being the only visual differences. its still ongoing and I plan on updating this post until its completed.


Engine work



replaced the cam chain.
redone all valve clearances (13 were out of spec)
resprayed with heat resistant matt engine paint, valve cover white heat resistant paint.
carburetors cleaned out and rebuilt.


Frame and plastics

all plastics resprayed with VRC1 exact colour of red as original.
plastics also welded with hot staples and plastic bonder.
frame sprayed with black and 2k clear coat over.
steering stem bearings replaced with new roller bearings.




suspension

replaced the original shock with a low mileage used one. (might upgrade to yss in future)
front forks are working fine with no seal leaks. ( might upgrade forks or springs in future)

cooling system

replaced damaged radiator with good used one.
buying radiator guard soon.
new as3 performance red hose kit with stainless hose clamps.



wheels


sprayed black and clear coated with 2k
new metzeler m5 interact tires.
all wheel bearings and sprocket carrier bearing replaced and greased.

Attached Files

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This topic has been moved to FZS600 Fazer.

[iurl]https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=27771.0[/iurl]

Hi all, Got my Fazer 1000 out last week and started for the first time in quite a few months.
Starts on choke and runs and rides perfectly over about 2,000 rpm
Misfire and judders under 2,000rpm.
Filled up with shell fuel and no better unfortunately.
I’m thinking this new low grade fuel has probably clogged up one the low rpm jets?


If that’s the case and carbs have to come out, then maybe it’s a good time to fit an Ivan’s kit.
Stock everything inc exhaust.


I know that Mike / Falcon used to fit these kits in the uk but think he has stopped.


Is there anyone who who has good experience and is fitting and setting up this kit in the uk?
Midlands near Lichfield.


Best regards
Ade

I have stripped my bike and put it back together of the past 3 years.


I have a 2002 fzs600


I have 5 bolts left over and not a clue where they are from.


Can anyone help identify them?


There are five and I am assuming they came from the same area


P[smg id=3594 type=preview align=center caption="Help - 5 unknown bolts"]

hi guys
any recommendations for the above tried yambits  (first sign of petrol on them lol.totally crap
anybody used  [color=rgb(51, 51, 51)]Tourmax parts[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)][/size]had the inlet rubbers that make,seem ok[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)][/size]tia regards adrian[/color]

Hi All,

I'm the 2nd owner of a 2012 FZ8. I noticed that the clutch does not seem to fully disengage especially when the bike is warm. For example, when stopped at lights with the engine running, it is sometimes difficult to get to neutral or change gear. While stopped in 1st, if I let the brakes off, there is a small about of drive to the back wheel. But not always. On a journey the problem shows at some stops and then not at others.

I've put up with it till now, but today I stripped the clutch to see if there was anything amiss. All the clutch plates appear flat and measure within the correct thickness. The friction plates are all between 116 and 121 thou. The metal plates are all around 80 thou - don't know the right measurement for those. The springs are the right length. There is no discernible play in the gearbox input shaft. I noticed some play in the outer basket - the one driven by the engine which I measured as 0.004 at the outer edge. I guess that is play in the bearing the runs around the gearbox input shaft.

Also I noticed that the nut at the end of clutch cable at the gearbox end was loose. Could someone kindly describe how that is meant to be fitted. This could be the cause of the problem.

Thank you

[img alt=]https://foc-u.co.uk/data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img] Ken