Riding along today on a back country road I see a length of wire or pipe in the road and think " I dont want to run over that only on passing do I realise its a snake about 3 foot long - and that was bendy snake shape, I turned around and went back so I could grab him and get a photo but he had gone. 

Just recently purchased a FZS1000 2004 (23K) and during riding there is weepage at the oil filler cap. At first, I thought a gasket had failed as the oil was collecting under the clutch cover. I have tightened the oil filler cap as tight as it will go and still she weeps. I was thinking maybe a quick fix by using a few layers of PTFE (plumber's tape) as it does offer good heat resistance. Is this an inherent issue or is it something unique and an indicator of a deeper problem? 

Hi all, anyone got a v nice stainless rad guard for a gen1 1000 up for grabs or anyone thinking of putting their bike up for sale & want to off load one before they flog it? Cheers.

https://youtu.be/xtLAOWu9Ea8

Hi all would like some input and place to look at for buying parts. The bike/engine as only do 14k from new, the problem is the chain let go about a month ago and smash the clutch cable house and the two top engine/crank case mounting thread hole to oblivion. Though the bikes still usable, I know it's broken and neeed!! to fix it. I would like to go the big bore route if it is viable?

Blue & white jacket 56 trousers 54 zip together, no damage, no longer fit! £90
07979965461 Sevenoaks Kent

I have a 2002 model and as I'm sure you all know, these are not fitted with a temp gauge, just a small light. I've never seen this come on (I would assume it would when turning on ignition, as a test?) so don't even know if it works. Took the bike out yesterday for a couple of hours (nice warm day) and noticed after riding that the fan wasn't on (something I will investigate very soon).

This got me wondering and wishing the bike was actually fitted with a gauge, rather than a stupid light, so wondering if anyone could recommend one that will be suitable for these bikes?

Hi guys,

I'm new here, I've posted in the intro section. Got myself a 98 FZS600 with 16.5k on the clock. Got it late January and have since put over 2k miles on it myself. I've noticed since Monday that once I get above 4.5k RPM I get the telltale clacking sound. Having checked about it seems they can suffer sticky timing chain tensioner. So pulled the carbs, took the tensioner out serviced it and replaced. It seemed that the tensioner was fully extended (took the bolt off the back before removing to check) put it back together and still the same. So pulled the valve cover to check valve clearances. So first question what's in spec for the valves please? Also when the valve cover was off timing chain felt nice and tight but it didn't seem to sit all the way down on the cam sprockets. I could see light between the teeth. Is that normal for the FZS? My experience with DOHC engines s limited and the once I've seen, the timing chain sat right down on the teeth and no light was visible through them

Hope that all makes sense and sorry for the long post

Cheers
Ian

Hi Guys,

Obviously new to the forums since I'm posting here. So I've read its good to post a little about me, so here goes!
My name's Ian I'm originally from Cardiff but currently living in the South Wales Valleys. Got my first big bike at the end of January, after riding 125s for 6 years. Its a 1998 Frazer 600. Absolutely bloody love it!
Its used as an all weather daily ride so when it was seen with 16k miles on the clock in great condition it was a no brained!
Think I'm getting g the dreaded cam chain rattle now, so a post in the help forums is inbound!
That's pretty much it if you have any advice or questions I'm open to both. Thanks for taking the time to read :-)

Ian

Having a good look  round my newly acquired Gen 1 and one of the bolts holding the Exup cover is sheared  :'( .  Can anyone tell me the depth of the hole and the bolt size. I'm a bit reticent to take out the other 2 as it is working fine, though will have to at some point. Is there a standard way of bolt removal, ie heating up the casing and regular applications of WD 40, or is down to luck, I know this has been covered a few times but there may be a standard way now.
Cheers
Carl