As announced in the Ivan thread, I'm bringing this method called "Power Tweak" here from the German Fazer forum in case anyone here has use for it. The goal is to strengthen the headlight and relieve the ignition switch. Not sure if this has been done here before.
Background by Christian (Schlumpf):
"From the outset, it has surprised me why the Fazer despite double headlights only a relatively modest, average light emitted. Over time, it turned out that the wiring is not the greatest and swallows a lot of "precious" voltage. I finally looked into the matter and found a workable solution. With one or two additional cables, depending on the requirement, the Fazer electrics can be helped on the jumps. I have described the conversion on my website. The "standard" voltage loss at the headlight of about 2.8 volts can be reduced to about 0.6 volts."
"There are 3 variants to improve the light, in all of them the effect occurs that the light becomes better and the ignition lock is relieved from the load current of the light.
Schlumpf variant ("new" load current line for the light)
"Power Tweak" a la Chris (ignition lock switches an extra relay, which in turn switches the load current for light, fan, horn, etc.)
Plus wire from battery (or pre-fuse) to fuse for headlights (I think Chris mentioned this once).
Conclusion regarding the ratio of effort to benefit:
Variant 3 is the least time-consuming and has almost the same effect as variant 1. Power Tweak is in my opinion the best solution, since only slightly more effort is required than with variant 3 and the ignition lock is relieved the most."
So here is the translated guide by fzmoe for variant 3 "power tweak" with a schematic at the bottom:
"The idea came from Chris on the Fazer forum, you can read the idea behind it there.
Parts list:
1x relay 30A (changeover contact)
1x relay socket
4x flat connector sleeves 6,35mm cable min. 4 mm2 or 2x2,5mm2 cable 1,5mm2
Remark:
Since approx. 19 amps could flow at maximum load with this circuit, a cable cross-section of at least 4mm2 is required for the switching circuit. Instead of the 4mm2 cable, you can also use two 2.5mm2 cables connected in parallel, these are more common and almost every screwdriver has them lying around somewhere.
The blue/brown cable to be modified on the Fazer from the ignition lock to the fuse box is also a parallel cable.
Relay pinout:
85 - output control current
86 - input control current
30 - working current battery +
87 - working current output to consumer 87a - is not assigned
Steps:
Disconnect battery.
Remove the fuse box from the holder.
Remove the 4 fuses (1xlight, 1xfan, 1xignition and 1xhorn, brake light, etc.) from the box and press out the terminals where the blue/brown cable is attached from the top (press in 2 small black plastic noses per terminal).
Remove the blue/brown cables from the terminals and solder new cables with 2.5mm2 to the terminals instead and press the terminals back into the box. Length of the cables should be about 10- 15cm, depending on where you want the relay to sit later.
Insulate one of the blue/brown cables. The other one goes to pin 86 of the relay.
the two new soldered cables from point 4 now both come to pin 87 of the relay.
battery +: Now we remove the pins with the 2 thick red wires on the main fuse right next to the battery (see Smurf's improvement of the light). Here we solder another cable to each (2.5mm2). The pins are plugged in again. These two newly soldered cables are now led to the relay and both come there together to pin 30.
connect a wire from pin 85 of the relay to battery minus (ground). I went here to the ground contact, which is usually on the battery. Simply pull out the pin and solder the cable to it, here a 1,5mm2 is sufficient, because less current flows here.
My dash is gone, nothing is displayed on the dash only the blue light is on. Will a S2 dash fit as a bolt on? Found that someone opened the dash and had to be cut apart to brake into
Sadly I am having to put my 2002 FZS1000 up for sale as spare or repair due to an electrical fault. The symptoms of the fault are that when turning the key there is no power to any of the electrical system despite having a well charged battery. I initially attributed this problem to the datatool alarm system which was subsequently disabled by an auto electrician, but the problem is still there. The issue was originally intermittent but has become worse with time. Sadly with an upcoming wedding and a mortgage to pay I can’t afford to invest further time or money into it to sort it out. For those who are electrically minded, this may be a very easy fix.
Mileage: 40,463 (at last MOT, clocks aren’t illuminating with the ignition as described above)
MOT Expires 6 April 2024 (Registration LY02 NUE if you wish to check it’s history on gov website)
The good:
The bike was a good runner until its recent electrical fault. I have owned the bike for the past 8 years or so (purchased from a forum member) and have done plenty of touring on it. Mechanically the bike is sound and it has some desirable upgrades to make it a very competent all round machine.
Full Monty Ivans Jet Kit
K&N Air filter
Beowulf end can
4XV R1 front end
Braided brake lines
R6 rear shock.
Givi rear rack.
The bad:
In addition to the electrical problem above the bike is nowhere near a show bike. Cosmetically it could use some improvement as it has scratches on the tank and tail unit.
Sadly the service history has been lost and only comes with a few notes found in it’s Haynes Manual, I have serviced the bike myself and ensured the EXUP valve has been greased yearly.
V5 is present and in my name. I would prefer to sell this as a whole machine rather than breaking for parts. The bike will need trailering away.
Price: £800.
Location: Bridgnorth, Shropshire,
Contact details: Mark, please PM
[remove number is this will get scraped/spidered by bots. - bkd)
Would like your experience to help me get this off as smoothly and quickly as possible. Besides the usual bits, the nuts at the at the side and mirrors, what else needs to be undone to get it off? Some say the clocks in order to get at those two Philips screws? Yes or no?
Seems Yamaha can't or won't fix this issue that plagues many models old & new.
I've found the machining clearances within Blue Spot calipers to be excessive, allowing cold pad chatter, no improvement under thermal expansion as the pad to caliper tolerances are way to large, under riding condition the pads clatter around within the caliper giving a loud click upon brake application as the front pads rotate around the single pad pin & smash into the caliper, this excessive tolerance can also cause a noticeable brake judder, this gets even worse with age & use as the caliper wears.
Rear calipers also suffer from pad rattle, but to a lesser degree.
After some trial & error & testing various ideas, I've found a permanent cure.
It's a simple solution to a PITA rattle that can plague just about any bike caliper.
It involves fabrication of 4 front shims, it's not too difficult a job, just a bit time consuming.
Pad edges need a bit of fettling to square them up.
Parts required:
0.5mm stainless sheet.
Scriber or sharp pick tool.
Quality aviation style tin snips or a plasma cutter.
Selections of files.
Vernier.
Centre punch & hammer.
Drill / drill bits.
Sanding block.
400 grit wet n dry paper.
Vice.
Lots of patience.
Stool, it's a long winded job & your back will thank you for it.
Pics show end result of shims & modified rattle springs which can be a proper mare to install, 2 pad pins make it a simpler process, strong thumbs help no end. :thumbup
Does anyone want an FZS600 (2000) 'box eye' fairing in black, headlight unit, fairing brackets and mirrors (no bolts for any of these)? The fairing is black and in very good condition (the screen is rubbish!) the mirrors and brackets are great. The headlight is fine, it worked when I took it off.
Hello all. I'm new here although I've had my FZS600 for a few years. She's currently in several pieces awaiting an engine overhaul, clean up and re-paint, I'm in the process of making a solo seat, (hopefully using the original plastic seat base and some fibre glass) and a separate fibre glass seat hump. So a bit of minor sub-frame butchery has been going on. I've removed the fairing, favouring a single headlight, which led me to move the ignition switch so I can mount the stock clocks nearer the top yoke. A few other new bits going on too - Nitron Shock. EBC front discs, new brake lines, fazer 1000 rear brake caliper. It's a bit of a slow burner, hopefully she'll be in one piece very soon!
took my bike out the other day half a mile just stopped pushed home then it started again fuel pump works fine good sparks only thing i can think is recently replaced fuel filter i can see fuel going into filter but it never fills up completly is this right thanks in advance
:rolleyes Well here goes. Went to work yesteday and engine felt wee bit rough. Felt like chain needed tightening, but had been done previous week.
Finished work, fired bike up ,, no problems,, into first and off i go,, :eek :eek ,,,, felt like engine sprocket had came loose.
Very slow acceleration , noise still there going up gears. Cruising at 50 ish and felt ok.
Stop at junction,, oh no problems going down gears,, pulled away and felt like someting grinding,, only under pressure.
So far,, no play in rear wheel,, chain ok,, engine sprocket ok,, upgrade done on that some time ago. Tickover no noise. Goes through gears ok.
Thats as far as time will allow me till week end. Oh high millage on engine. And clutch done last year.
Any ideas very welcome. Wont get time now till sunday , but suggestion will be greatfull and followed.
Off to work, on four wheels :o :\ :\ .
oh,, couldnt tell which side noise coming from.
