Confused, workshop manual says exhaust valve clearance 0.21-0.25. Further down the page on the charts to calculate which shim is needed the clearance is 0.21-0.30. which is correct ?     

I don’t know why I bother posting these events, as it’s only me that goes :lol . Anyhow, as usual the meeting point is Tankerton Rd car park CT5 2AS at 12 noon, leaving at 1pm for the Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother hospital at Margate. There’s usually an on-site burger van for drinks and food. If you don’t want to bring a toy, which is a chore, cash donations can be made to authorised collectors in the car park. I’m happy to lead a morning ride to the event via a cafe, starting near the old Oakdene cafe, close to M25 and M26, but it would be an early start to get to the ride start venue by approx 12:30.

Hi all just bought a 2000 fzs 600 as a non runner. Took carbs out, stripped ultrasonically cleaned, replaced all o rings. She now starts on the button but has a slight missfire under load or opening the throttle between 1-2000 rpm. Above 2000rpm the bike pulls cleanly all the way through the rev range. Before I strip the carbs down again does anyone have any ideas? I’ve trimmed the HT leads down by 10mm and set the TPS to 5k as per the manual. I still need to balance the carbs but not sure if it’s a good idea with the missfire, or could that be the reason it’s misfiring?
Any advice greatly appreciated.

  Does anyone else think our instrument cluster indication of the indicators being in use is shite? I am an old twat from the days of RD 250/400 and 350LCs,  Kawasaki triples etc. The yams, especially of that era had blindingly :lol  obvious flashing bright ones, self cancelling indicators as well, the LC especially as they were mounted very high on the cluster! I am forever forgetting to switch the Fazers indicators off!  It’s not a matter of if but when some arse pulls out in front of me! Only issue I have with the bike really. What do you think?

So the faux carbon fibre on my end can is sun-faded/buring off and after a 2mph drop today it was the prompt to get it replaced.

So Im after a non-oem end can for my 2007 FZ1.

Any winter motorcyclists out there, next years Dragon is on the weekend of Feb 10/11. Tickets will be on sale very soon, all details on Conwy MCC website.

Alright I've a lot to talk about here as I've tried a lot of things so far.


basically after i got the engine back together i did the old spraying water on the headers to see what was happening. at that stage only 2 cylinders were firing. after taking the carbs out and completely rebuilding them now its working on 1-2-4 but 3 is cold. i put a brand new plug in cylinder 3 and moved the plug wire from 2 to 3 basically swapping them, didnt make a difference. when i did take them all out to check for spark they all have blue spark. I did notice a little bit of plug cap arcing from cylinder 4 cap but thats attached to a different coil and 1-4 are fine so even though its not ideal i dont think its the issue.
THE ISSUE HAS ALSO MOVED FROM 2ND BEING COLD TO NOW 3RD BEING COLD, so it has swapped a cylinder somehow after I cleaned the carbs


so my symptoms are as follows.


in first and second gear around 4k RPM I can hear the 3rd cylinder waking up and firing it kinda stutters as it begins to get fuel to the cylinder then firing perfectly on all 4 cylinders from that rpm onwards.


below 3k RPM taking off feels lumpy like an old steam train firing up  :rollin


tiny drop of fuel now and then out of the 2nd carb bank overflow




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now I did try a really rudimentary vacuum guage to sync the carbs but since then i did a bench sync and it feels way better, in high rpm it pulls very well. but maybe the 3rd cylinder is just miles off the rest. can carb sync issues cause a cylinder to not fire at all on idle?


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if anyone has ever had a similar issue or knows what could be happening id like to hear your opinions as running on 3 is better than 2 on idle circuit but id like to be using all cylinders  :'( 

i just want a list of things to try and hopefully i can get it back to being fully operational 

I don't know why it's taken me a good 6 years to finally get registered onto this site after lurking around in the background, but alas, I've done it. I've been on an R1-engined Yamaha for the better part of 10 years, where my daily was my 07 R1. I purchased my Fazer Thou back in 2017 when my now wife grew tired of riding pillion on the non existent perch of the R1. It now serves as a commuting and winter hack, although since working from home post covid lockdown, the only ever time it comes out is when the R1 hibernates between October and March, which is a shame.


Nevertheless, what with having kids and having a family who mountain bike, it's very difficult to get to spend Sundays scratching B roads and pootling over into Wales. I wanted to part with both bikes and get a Tuono V4, but the all day comfort and relatively simple maintenance of the Gen 1 meant that I'll end up keeping both. Both have clocked over 52k miles and both are on their second engines - Spun big end on the R1 and failed thermostat cooking the original Fazer lump at 44k miles. Two litre class Yamahas with vastly different characteristics and personalities. Makes me wonder if I should just get a 5PW R1 as a garage stablemate.


But yeah, just thought I'd say hi. 

Hi all,


Was wondering what specific parts are needed to de-restrict the bike in the carbs when it's been restricted with the official Yamaha kit. I've been scouring a bit on the forum/online but not much specific info to be had, does anyone know the exact part numbers?


Or perhaps it's cheaper to just buy an entire new set of carbs? Found one online for 80 euros, I can imagine buying the individual parts 4x might quickly add up to around that...


Thanks.

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