I went out to do the picture challenge today with the aim of getting the lovely village sign at Biddenden.  I decided to stop off along the way with the intention of getting all the signs on the way and making a montage.  Sadly I got as far as Sutton Vallance.  I pulled off the road, parked up on the path and took the photo. Back on the bike, decided to paddle the bike across the grass verge back onto the road and sadly the front wheel slipped when it touched the grass and down we went at the grand speed of 1mph.  I've snapped the wing mirror, but that needed replacing anyway.  The indicator popped out, no biggy.  But I've reopened an old repair on the fairing  :'(
All this comes at the end of a shit week where me and the missus were discussing how the foc we're going to afford the next 3 months with a barage of big bills.  :'( The bike will have to wait a fair while to be repaired now, I suspect next year from a financial point of view, it's always been a luxuary for me, other bills take priority, sadly.

As the title suggests, what exactly were people thinking?
What pictures do you have of things that are simply "Just wrong"?

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Promoto
Wilbers
Hyperpro
Ohlins


All recommend progressive for the road and linear for the track - makes sense


Are these springs all of good quality and relatively equal?

Anyone know of anybody doing good prices on EBC pads at the moment?

Hi all,
I just got my car back from the local BMW main dealer after a major service. I drove it the 3miles home and thought I'll just pull out the dip stick, check the level and look at my nice new clear oil and it looks like the photo below. A bit of a black mess.


Now did they 'forget to do it', or is this what you would expect to see?
Luckily it's a company lease car, but I don't want to go embarrassing myself by flagging this up if it's normal.

(BMW 320d)


thanks,


Brett

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Took the Fazer to the MOT centre this morning!

Passed my MOD 2 on Monday, been tinkering with the Fazer for a couple of months but couldn't ride it. (Not worth the risk with no insurance tax or MOT) I've been learning on the schools old naked xjs600 diversion. Bit lower and generally much more agricultural. That was the only bike id ever ridden until this morning!! Strangest thing was the clocks staying still when the bars move! Felt so odd compared to the diversion! Much more planted feel though and sounds amazing! First time ever riding in the raid though...that made things a bit tentative on the roundabouts!! Phew!!

Send some good vibes for the MOT pass!
Here she is before I left her! 

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t.com/user/litwardle/media/tmp_11547-IMG_20170728_093853_3731288889032_zpsni1zbgk0.jpg.html][/URL]

Did a bit of a streetfighter project and removed front fairing, changed headlights, indicators and handlebars.

Now I have a problem that when the clutch is pulled in the headlight comes on.  Release clutch and headlight goes off.

I believe it might be a grounding issue but I'm not sure how to fix it.  At the moment I just leave low beam on all the time.

Any ideas?

http://www.visordown.com/features/motorc...e-classics

What we all, already knew 

I have 2 sets of FZS600 rear EBC Organic Brake pads for sale. They are EBC FA104 still in package suitable for the original FZS600 rear caliper. Found them in the garage last weekend when cleaning up. No use to me as both 600s have FZS1000 Calipers

Will also fit the following:
Yamaha TZR125 L 90-92
Yamaha TZR125 R 93-96
Yamaha TDR250 88-92
Yamaha TZR250 (Not Import!) 87-92
Yamaha RD350 F/F2/N/R 85-92
Yamaha FZR400 RR (4DX) 92-95
Yamaha RD500 LC 84-87
Yamaha FZ600 87-89
Yamaha FZS600 Fazer 98-03
Yamaha SRX600 (Not Import!) 86-87
Yamaha XJ600 S Diversion 92-03
Yamaha XJ600 N 95-03

£15 or €17.5 each including postage

£25 or €29 for the 2 including postage

Need to do my fork seals, any makes to avoid or definitely buy. Also any tips, I've done fork seals before but not on a thou. so are there any 'challenges' or 'wish I'd bought one of those' tools.
Cheers
Carl