hello guys, what a p1sser!, checked bike over before I took it for MOT n all seemed well, got to mot station and front fork had blown a seal on the way there :-( needless to say it failed.

I have stareted to strip down the forks to replace the seal but when I took the top cap of the forks I forgot to measure where the lock nut was on the damper rod (numpty). Is there a standard measure for this? or should it be the same measurement as the other fork?

The good news is the MOT guy said apart from that its it excellent condition

Any help would be most apreciated

Cheers John

Need a new set but where is the cheapest place to buy, my local fitter can fit if I supply. Looked at Black Circles and oponeo so far

Hi everyone newbie here,


Not sure if this is the right place to post so apologies in advance. I have a 2003 fazer fzs 600 and my ignition swith has been attacked by some undesirables! Long story short I can insert the key but have to wiggle and twist before it will turn and I get my dash lights, unfortunately with the engine running I can now remove the key from the ignition switch!( some what dangerous).


My question is I have been looking at the earlier model of the fazer 600's fzs ignition switch and they only have 6 wires where as my model the 03 version has 7. Looking at the wiring diagrams it appears that on the later models the addition wire(Brown) independently feeds the fuse? Can anyone please tell me are the earlier model ignition switches interchangeable with the later models or am I going to have to take out a mortgage to by a genuine part as the later model switchs are impossible to get hold of second hand.


Please any help would be greatly appreciated.

Been looking at a new set of Bridgestones and Michelin and keep coming across old versions of a tyre that have been replaced by the new improved version yet the old version is still being made many years after its replacement came out, why don't they properly discontinue a tyre once its replacement comes out. 

Guys I'm right there in the danger zone.


After taking everything to bits (first time I ever took some cams off!) and successfully pulling the new chain through using the old one, I'm at the last hurdle before the re-build.


After reading previous threads and watching some videos whilst I was being paid to do my normal job, I ended up purchasing this fine chain breaker. It's done well so far until now when I have to put the rivet link in. It's as though it doesn't have the correct fitting to rivet over the new pins. Basically it's too big and all the suitable parts have grooves or holes in the wrong places which means too much pressure is applied to the adjacent links and they go stiff.


My question is this, does the DID chain rivet link NEED to be rivetted/peened over after getting it through the link? It looks kind of secure but I'd like some second opinions. Maybe there is another technique to rivet these links together?


Cheers

Any views on any of these tyres I need front and back

bridgestone bt 016
bridgestone bt s21
Michelin Pilot Power 2CT

I am not looking for a massively long lasting tyre. I only ride dry so wet grip is no factor. 
I understand that the 2CT was not available in 110 but it seems to be now

Another Hampshire museum visited last week.

Lots of interesting exhibits in the main museum and 'World of Top Gear' next door.

The WSB Ducati 999 is the one Troy Bayliss won his second title on.

Beaulieu, Hampshire, SO42 7ZN. Adult admission £24.75.

https://www.beaulieu.co.uk/

Few bits & pieces found in the garage so far...

Rear hangers  & footpegs. These will be useful to any 1998-99 bike owners who want to attach a Givi rack / Wingrack (it won't fit without these).  £20 + post

Speedo drive (at the front wheel). Does NOT include the bit that breaks every time you take the wheel off. £15 + post

Clutch Cable (OEM Yamaha) £3 + post

More to come as I clear out the man-cave

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After a Givi / Kappa 348/349 top case / side cases setup, or SW motech if they do the top & side case setup too.
But also looking for e21 / e22 side cases and possibly a topbox
Finally, after a Bagster / Baglux tank cover, either silver or grey or even black at a push.

Hi all, first post for me, since I don't even have a Fazer yet. But I will, in just a few days. My question is, should I get the old carbuerreted one, or the new fuel injected one. Have anyone in here had both? Which is better, more powerful, less thirsty, more fun, etc...
In my area there is one 2003 model going for 38K NOK, and one 2004 model going for 45K NOK. Most other specs are pretty much the same. Which would you go for?
I'm looking for a fun bike that can also go on long summer vacations through Europe.