Well I know it’s probably been done to death and everybody has seen it multiple times.
But it’s nice to post when you’re modifying your bike and I wouldn’t be doing this if it wasn’t for this great resource because I wouldn’t have had a clue where to start so thankyou.
Am down the bottom of the world in New Zealand so parts are hard to come by, certainly couldn’t find an R6 shock here.
But thanks to eBay found a brand new 2021 shock that was pulled off a race bike next door in Australia for $240au by the time I got it here in my hands was $450nz which is probably about $220 pounds?
Went with 129mm dogbones which I made up myself from 30mm x 5mm stainless not cut out like dogbones just flat plate.
Saw somewhere else on here about using tophat washers to overcome the 12mm standard hole to the 10mm R6 top mount - great idea found a local company that makes them for castors got some that had a 3mm thick flange and according to my measurements the standard shock was 35mm wide at the top bush and the R6 was 30mm so I just needed to take .5mm off each flange to give me 2.5mm flanges.
They were about 5mm too long which was easy fixed with a grinder.
Best part is the tophat washers cost me $2.50nz each?
Due to the great info on here apart from making dogbones and modifying tophats the whole thing took about 20mins to swap shocks.
So all back together now have set sag at 33mm and clickers at standard until I go for a test ride and will tune from there.
So not really an info post as such but more of a thank you in general to this amazing resource we have?
Obviously more than happy to help with any questions ?

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Morning.


Does anyone know the length of all the original brake hoses/pipes?


Are they measured by the hose/pipe without the banjos or are the banjos included in the overall length?


Lastly has anyone bought brake hoses/pipes from Amazon? If so are they any good?


Cheers

Hi everyone.


I need to pick the brains of the gurus over a starting issue.


I’ve had my budget bitch fox eye 6 months, bought as a non runner. A fuel drain and filter change, e5 with redex, a jump pack and a lot of winding over sprung it into life a few days later. I then started going through the service docs to check the specs of everything to eliminate the basics. Along with the filter change it’s had a new set of the correct spark plugs, NGK plug caps (old ones were out of spec for resisance), coil checks which read fine, a clean up of the wiring for the ignition barrel and the r/h switch assembly and the carbs swapped for some newly cleaned and bench synced ones.


She will start but it does involve choke, throttle and a lot of turning over. When started she revs well, pulls through the gears.


I’ve not run compression tests or checked valve clearances yet, unfortunately a lot of my free time is spent chasing round after a toddler at the minute ??


Are there any other common issues that I should look at before I go down the compression and clearance route?


Thanks for your help,


Ian

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Hi everyone, new arrival to the forum.


I picked up a very unloved Fox eye FZS600 back in June and I’ve very slowly been making my way through it.


For the bank breaking put out of £350 it didn’t start, drive have any brake pads left or an MOT. She now starts, drives, MOT and a bit more paint than when I got her!


Still got a few issues that I’m scratching my head over so I’ll be picking your brains in due course.


Thanks for having me,


Ian

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Hello. Long time lurker and hoping that theres still enough people on this board to help me out. I always prefer forums as it is, but here goes..


99 fzs600 with no spark. I have absolutely ran out of ideas why. I bought it with no spark, the previous owner gave up.


I have:

• two igniter boxes
  
• new plugs
  
• new leads
  
• new coils
  
• tested pickup coil - 260ohms
  
• loop plugs x2 in place under the seat
  
• replacement loom, all continuity tested, all plugs clean
  
• anything that would kill the spark has been tested and proven to work (kickstand, clutch switch, cutout switch)
  
• every wire going into the igniter box has been continuity tested to where it ends up, via the haynes mnaual
  
• new battery
  

1. The two white plugs under the seat with looped connections - one of the plugs has four connections, but only two are looped. Is this correct?
   
2. Is there a way to bypass the ignition cutoff relay in order to rule it out? It HAS failed some of the tests in the haynes manual but from reading the diagrams it seems to just send 12v to the igniter box anyway, which it does.
   
3. Pickup coil reads 206ohms and jumps to 260ohms when ignition is on. When it picks up a signal from the rotor, it only moves around about +_20ohms. Is this correct?
   

  Has anyone ever had their Gen 1 front lower engine mount/brace (the part that gets pelted with stones and crap in the middle, then goes rusty ☹️) shot blasted and powder coated? Obviously washers and bolts would be used to blank off where the bushings and rubbers are.  Bearing in mind the rubber inserts may be affected by the curing heat for the powder? Has anyone done this successfully?

Garmin 395 motorcycle sat nav, kit includes car mount, instructions, boxed. The sat nav has a fitting on the rear to allow a tether to be attached, this can easily be removed if not required. £150 posted.

Hi Foccers.

I've just received an email in my Gmail Inbox from noreply@foc-u.co.uk but I have no corresponding message on our website.
Does anyone know if the email is genuine or is it a scam?

When I hover my mouse over the noreply address another personal-type email address is displayed - simon@prince.uk.net.

Thanks in advance for any help/advice you can give.

Dave

Wanted renntec or similar rack for 2003 fzs 600,
(Wanted to fit topbox) not worried about condition as I'll probably hammerite it anyway.
Cheers
Clive 

Hi I’m taking delivery of a fazer 1000 gen 1 soon and can’t wait to sample the bike as I’ve never had a bike this powerful, will it be faster than my BSA Bantam? ?? seriously it will sit well with my other bikes which are all from the 70s