As mentioned in the Hayabusa 06 post these are the the boxed pair of 2 pairs of end cans.  These were fitted to the bike at some point. 

The boxed set.

These are complete with all the packaging and the 2 road baffles.  There're slight marks on both cans and on the RH can what looks like either something has knocked into or the bike scraped into a wall/door way, there is a tightish gate way into her garden were the bike was kept, or it's been knocked over.  If you know anything about these you can obtain the over banding strip from the importer, de-rivet the damaged one, reprofile/polish the end cap, refit the new banding, job done. 

These are straight fit for 99 -07 Busa's they could possibly fit others in the Gixxer range or other bikes with a mounting rings she's looking for £450, plus postage at cost.












Left Can


Right Can

Design and Print Trendy POD T-Shirts: Your Ultimate Fashion Canvas

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This powerful "Never Surrender" design inspires resilience and determination!

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The POD T-shirt is more than a means of expression; it is a way to express what you stand for to the world. Every design contains another story or meaning that describes your personality, interests, and values. Wear Your Passions with POD T-Shirt Designs from LionKingShirt to create a fabulous POD T-shirt that represents your flair, and by wearing it, you are open to others engaging in it. Whether you go out casually, attend some function socially, or work in some setting professionally, your T-shirt will gain eyes—and set you apart from all others visually.

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I saw an audi with what looked like an extra pink led strip above its white daytime running lights pretty sure its illegal but apart from that I think all bikes should be fitted with them.
I always thought that the EU law to have all cars fitted with daytime running lights made riding a bike more dangerous - why?. Because before that if you had your lights on when riding then drivers could see a bike approaching from miles away - it was either a bike or a volvo.But now our headlights are completely lost amongst the sea of ever fancy shapes of daytime running lights making it very hard for drivers to pick out a single light travelling in front of the Christmas tree light background.But that Audi with its pink strip was really easy to spot. --Thoughts  :lurk     

This is the second time I have put Redex and vpower in and it makes my bike run rough at high rpm and makes it very vibey

It goes away once it’s all ran through and re fill with just vpower and no Redex anyone else had this issue ?

I put a new battery on my bike FZ1 every year, and if I don't keep it on the optimiser, it flattens within a week, it is now un rideable really for fear of getting caught out. I think there is a bad earth or a leak to earth, but recently I have seen a lot of stuff with the Alternator/generator falling to bits, does anyone have a clue as to what it might be. Thanks guys

Save London Motorcycling & MAG need you to request a solo motorcycle bay in Hackney!

Thank you to everyone who responded to the recent Hackney consultation. Hackney are now looking at your responses and will make a decision soon so it’s vital we keep up the pressure!

In Hackney’s plan all-day parking for commuters will only be allowed in solo motorcycle bays - Hackney only has 40 of these, and they’re almost all in the south of the borough. Outside solo motorcycle bays the car parking rules will apply to motorcycles, meaning;

• maximum stay limits or residents-only restrictions in many areas
  
• prices of £22-40 per day for visitor/commuter parking where it is allowed
  

• Think about places you need to park your motorcycle in Hackney
  
• Check the map below or on our website to see if there is already a bay there
  
• If not, email Mete Coban and say you need a bay installed here before the new charges come into force. Specify the location as exactly as possible
  
• Repeat until you’re happy that there is enough motorcycle parking in Hackney for your needs
  

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Hi all
looking to purchase a frame over here in a not so sunny France...  It was advertised as an 02/03 frame... (with Carte Grise (French V5) & number plate)... But when I managed to get a look at the (French) V5 it was registered in Nov 01... Now, it maybe an 02 registered early, but the French registration method leaves a lot to be desired. (so... I have the frame and registration numbers)  I have contacted the breakers and asked for clarification... But I think that I maybe weeing into the wind as they don't seem to understand what I'm asking for!!! lol  searching the numbers on the world wide webulator hasn't come up with any results... and don't even mention contacting Yamaha France... They are as forthcoming as a wet sponge!!! lol
Anyway... question... Is there a discernible difference between the actual frames???... For example... Lugs to accommodate the foxeye fairing opposed to the Mk1 fairing?  Fastners around the bike... or anything else I need to be aware of??? I'm not opposed to having to change a bit around... I have a good welder friend here that builds his own custom bikes...
Cheers

Just a word of caution.
When you get your bike modded to pass the ULEZ emissions they tell you to download the TfL Drive app which you can then enter your Reg. Number and it will say "Nothing To Pay -Exempt"


Well, lo and behold, that app has crashed, and sends you in a loop for a software update that doesn't exist.
Tried uninstalling and reinstalling but that never worked.


I've seen it myself that my bike is exempt and have the Dyno records, but when I tried on a different website it takes my bike as standard and says It is NOT exempt.


I'm sure it will be okay, but I better not get a fine through the post, because I will not be impressed.


Although my mate just told me all the cameras on the main road near where I live have had the cables cut.

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As announced in the Ivan thread, I'm bringing this method called "Power Tweak" here from the German Fazer forum in case anyone here has use for it. The goal is to strengthen the headlight and relieve the ignition switch. Not sure if this has been done here before.

Background by Christian (Schlumpf):

"From the outset, it has surprised me why the Fazer despite double headlights only a relatively modest, average light emitted. Over time, it turned out that the wiring is not the greatest and swallows a lot of "precious" voltage. I finally looked into the matter and found a workable solution. With one or two additional cables, depending on the requirement, the Fazer electrics can be helped on the jumps. I have described the conversion on my website. The "standard" voltage loss at the headlight of about 2.8 volts can be reduced to about 0.6 volts."

Christians (Schlumpf) method can be found here:

https://cvieth-bplaced-net.translate.goo...x_tr_hl=en

The German forum then found two simpler methods.

"There are 3 variants to improve the light, in all of them the effect occurs that the light becomes better and the ignition lock is relieved from the load current of the light.

• Schlumpf variant ("new" load current line for the light)
  
• "Power Tweak" a la Chris (ignition lock switches an extra relay, which in turn switches the load current for light, fan, horn, etc.)
  
• Plus wire from battery (or pre-fuse) to fuse for headlights (I think Chris mentioned this once).
  

• 1x relay 30A (changeover contact)
  
• 1x relay socket
  
• 4x flat connector sleeves 6,35mm cable min. 4 mm2 or 2x2,5mm2 cable 1,5mm2
  

• 85 - output control current
  
• 86 - input control current
  
• 30 - working current battery +
  
• 87 - working current output to consumer 87a - is not assigned
  

• Disconnect battery.
  
• Remove the fuse box from the holder.
  
• Remove the 4 fuses (1xlight, 1xfan, 1xignition and 1xhorn, brake light, etc.) from the box and press out the terminals where the blue/brown cable is attached from the top (press in 2 small black plastic noses per terminal).
  
• Remove the blue/brown cables from the terminals and solder new cables with 2.5mm2 to the terminals instead and press the terminals back into the box. Length of the cables should be about 10- 15cm, depending on where you want the relay to sit later.
  
• Insulate one of the blue/brown cables. The other one goes to pin 86 of the relay.
  
• the two new soldered cables from point 4 now both come to pin 87 of the relay.
  
• battery +: Now we remove the pins with the 2 thick red wires on the main fuse right next to the battery (see Smurf's improvement of the light). Here we solder another cable to each (2.5mm2). The pins are plugged in again. These two newly soldered cables are now led to the relay and both come there together to pin 30.
  
• connect a wire from pin 85 of the relay to battery minus (ground). I went here to the ground contact, which is usually on the battery. Simply pull out the pin and solder the cable to it, here a 1,5mm2 is sufficient, because less current flows here.
  
• insert fuse box.
  
• connect the battery.