Just a heads up in case anyone’s interested.

Hey guys, I need help with my FZ6 speedometer wiring... After accident, speedo broke off, and now I'm left with whole wiring and working speedo but snapped wires from their place.
Nowhere on the internet was I able to find back side of speedo (motherboard) with wires in exact places, so if anyone has picture of their own, or can help in any way that would be very welcome

I can provide pictures if needed.

Thanks in advance!

Fazer, R1, laverda 750 , Z750

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Bit of a long shot.
I'm currently stripping my boxeye down to component parts before I rebuild it all pretty.
But it has the biggest crash bungs I've ever seen.
The look made specifically for the bike as they have shaped mount plates, which is nice.
But the bolts holding them on are far to long without the bungs fitted.
so they foul the oil filter.
Anyone got some kicking about?

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I've finally reached the difficult decision to let my current XJR go. I need the space to work, with 3 other bikes plus this XJR there's just not enough room, somethings got to go and it's the XJR it's just not getting used. 

I bought this bike in May 15 with 8680 on the clock it has a dealer service history until that point and from me until date. It was a bit of mess, nothing serious just covered in bling, wheel rim tape, cheap anodised nuts/bolts everywhere, gen 1 type LED indicators etc, etc, I'm sure you get the picture. It was in need of some serious TLC. I stripped the bike down to nothing other then the engine in the frame, everything was cleaned/checked/replaced, all the crap removed and fitted with OE or better, full list of work: -

Front and rear disc bolts replaced with SS.
Header studs and nuts replaced.
Calipers rebuilt.
36Y intake rubbers fitted.
4* advance plate fitted.
Air box mod.
Front forks stripped checked, uprated Hagon springs fitted, new oil.
Head races checked regreased.
Swing arm bushes/bearings checked regreased.
Shocks checked by Harris and uprated with (22% heavier) Ohlins springs.
Std indicators refitted.
Exhaust end plates removed and Klaus Goerz SSteel end plates fitted.
Delkevic SSteel collector box fitted, OE was shot.
Dual Fiamm type horns fitted.
Scott oiler fitted you can't see it unless you get your magnifier out! It's also set correctly.
Puig fly screen.
Oil cooler cover.
Polished chain guard.

The bike is fitted with a Datatool 3, it's been flawless in operation, still is. I know these like Meta get a bad rep, but in my experience (being in the trade and fitted both) I've never had a bad one, it's all about how they are fitted and keeping the battery's charged.

All OE parts, except brake lines, collector and chain guard are available and will be given to the new owner.

Current mileage 13510, mileage breakdown since I've owned it is as follows: -
May 15 - 16, 9274 = 594
May 16 - 17, 10029 = 755
May 17 - 18, 10695 = 666
May 18 - 19, 11016 = 321
May 19 - Sept 20 (covid extension) , 11552 = 536
Sept 20 - Aug 21, 12268 = 716
Aug 21 - Aug 23 (Off the road Nov 21 - Aug 23), 13488 = 1220
Aug 23 - to date 13510 = 22 last year it just went for it's MOT!

The bike has not been ridden this year as yet, bike started up last week, first prod after not being started since it's MOT and allowed to warm up.

As you can see it's not high usage, sunny day rides only, since I've owned it. It was given a full 12k service in May 22, 2 shims were replaced, front brake lines changed for Goodridge stealth lines, new SBS pads fitted, rear brake fluid changed, new Yuasa battery, fuel tap rebuilt (OE parts) including the small Oring (not OE) in the rear of the tap and new tyres (Mich Road 3) fitted at the same time. The bike is in very good condition, very clean, it's not perfect (see pictures) odd bits of rust beginning to appear on the odd fastener/bolt/screw etc, the bike is 21 years old. There is less of the normal wear and tear blemishes you'd expect for a 21 yr old bike, if you want a bike to complete nut and bolt restoration, this is it.

The bike runs and handles batter than standard, the motor is really strong again as you'd expect from a low mileage motor and it really is all about the XJR motor, if not not ridden one, you need too before you die.  All paperwork is present as is the spare key. This is a turn the key and ride off, just needs tax or use it to make it perfect, the bike is currently SORN.

It's worth in the region of £4200 ish, I'm looking for £4000 ovno, no tyre kickers please. So as not to offend if you visit and you want a test ride you need to cross my hand with 4.2K first. I'd prefer the bike went to a member before I have to ebay or other bike press. Bikes located in the Melton Mowbray area, PM me if you're interested




























Note the handle bar clock is not part of the sale







Blemishes

Hi guys. Generally how long do the ignition coils/leads last on these bikes?

Got a ‘99 that is having some issues, suspect it’s the pilot circuit on the no.3 carb but they’ve already been out and cleaned. Just investigating other things before the PITA of taking them out again (more specifically the PITA of putting them back in).

The coils didn’t seem to match the Haynes manual specs although I’m not particularly good with a multi-meter so that could be me, the bike runs fine once revving but misfires on the 3rd cylinder at idle.

Cheers in advance

hi there , i have a 2001 fzs600.  this fuel gauge has played up before but was cured simply by disconnecting fuel reader connection block spraying wD 40 into it and ridding the furring ( ver de gris ) off the connections and it was working perfectly again.  this time possibly coincidentally as a result of needing to temporarily disconnect the battery to do  a different job entirely , found the fuel gauge which worked before was now not working properly , that is to say not working as it should !  i have checked for the same issue as first time , all clean still and no reason to suspect similar reason as before .
the tank is about 70% full yet the fuel gauge will slowly climb up to the first mark above empty and no more , the needle drops back where it should  when ign off, so it is operating but not normally ( if were allowed to use such a word these days  :lol [size=78%])    [/size]

[size=1em]what could be the reasons and solutions[/size][size=1.35em] ? [/size][size=1em]how would i verify the faulty items ?[/size]

[size=1em]in the interim two questions,[/size]

[size=1em]although the gauge wont go any higher than first mark , would it react normally when fuel is lower than where its reading right now?[/size]

[size=1em]does the fuel warning light depend on working fuel gauge?  is it linked or independent to the fuel gauge , in other words can i rely on the fuel warning light despite faulty gauge ?[/size]

[size=1em]just thought of a third question now , when fuel warning light does come on , how much fuel do you have left ?  obviously fuel up immediately but what does the fuel warning light represent in mileage terms ? [/size]


[size=1em]thanks anyone who responds    [/size]

Just picked up this 'thing'
76000 miles, 13 previous owners.
No MOT.
I have plans 

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On my BSA A50 import from America, its running Boyer ignition and 12v battery but no ignition switch only two rocker switches. one presumably the ignition on /off and the other headlights.
Ive never come across this sort of wiring before. from the diagram I would like to know a few things.
1/. both high and low beam are joined into relay 1, will the relay dip the bulb?
2/. are both 20amp fuses needed in line?
3/. probably need a horn and rear brake switch, where is the best place to feed from?
4/. 2 relays? are they both needed?


going to rewire but there are brackets fitted and the frame has been powder coated as is. just looking to replace old wire for new.
thanks..

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  A50 wiring.odg (Size: 18.71 KB / Downloads: 15)

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