Hi,
Another electricity related question...
I've read in my haynes manual (and on here) that my voltage across the battery terminals at 5000rpm should be about 14.5v
It's only 13.5v I've checked all the wires and connections that I can see.
Using the guide in the Haynes manual, I've tested the alternator and the resistance is slightly higher than it should be across all the connections but that's the only issue I could see. Would this account for the lower voltage?
My fazer is the 04 one, so lights are on with the engine, would this drop the voltage to 13.5v?

Thanks everyone, google hasn't thrown up anything, I reckon this site's saved me a good amount of money (and blood pressure)

Tom

Guys I am in need of some help. I have a FZS600 which will shortly be going. Got the option of an 05 FZS1000 fazer or a FZ1 but can't make my mind up on which one to choose  :'(

I bought these a while back but I can't go now because of an exam.

They are student tickets but can be upgraded to real people tickets on the night for £3 each.

Seated in the stalls, seats U19&20.

£21 for both, posted by recorded delivery. (+upgrade to standard tickets will cost £27)

http://www.thelowry.com/event/paul-merton

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Hello to all from (sometimes) sunny Cornwall! Well - my subject is a little premature as I'm awaiting a dealer phonecall to tell me my new Fazer8 is ready for collection (should be this week), and let my '55 SV650S go...meanwhile, I'll have a good gander at the forums!

To answer my own question about a problem with a sticking throttle. It would not snap back when released.

I tried to oil the cable at first and this worked briefly but then it got sticky again. On the advice from a mate I removed the bar grip gave it a good clean and then sprayed some silicone on the handlebar and in the grip/throttle. This seems to have done the trick.

When I first looked inside the grip it looked very clean but it would seem that it was grease/dirt that was making it stick.

Might help someone with the same problem.

The following theory was expounded following the consumption of several pints of real ale (Stella) in my local hostelry. The exup valve causes back pressure at low (sub 5000) rpm engine speeds, this in turn prevents unburnt fuel from exiting the exhaust due to valve overlap. At high rpm there is no time for the incoming mixture to get to the exhaust valve. This is the reason for the exceptionally good fuel consumption of my Gen 1, and a good reason for not removing the exup. Any comments most welcome.

Hi i have a yamaha 1998 fazer , id like to change the standard handle bars for renthal bars. Does anyone know if this is an easy job, plus would i need to change anything else on bike? would they foul the fairing when turning etc. Long term i would like to change to a street fighter look, does anyone also know how u go about this , with getting parts etc

Hi all

Just got my 134 k gen1 recovered 550 miles due to rear wheel bearing failure!!!

got mcn atricle on how to replace and mates have also told me ( in general terms not for fazer specifically).

Cannot remove existing bearings with a large screwdriver head and hammer, i.e. whacking handle of screwdriver with hammer with bottom of screwdriver on lip of inside of bearing ( circlip and oil seals are out )..any ideas what i am doing wrong please?

Thanks guys

Hi all i have a 2003 fazer 600 that the headlight beam points the wrong way is there any cheap ways i can cure this without having to buy a new headlight ie ; tape on headlight ,beam benders
any help is most welcome

just read the ram mount post, i hope these help

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