All parts available, need everything gone, call 07545586223

Engine £250


Frame with private plate "R13 GOO" (looks like RB 600) log book all there £400



Carbs £60


Front disks £50


Front calipers £70


Forks £50


Yokes with ignition switch and key £30


Clocks £25


Swing arm £30


Rear shock £60


Rear caliper £30


Seat £15


Tail light £10


Wiring loom complete £40


Stainless headers £100


rear set £50 for both



rear pegs £25



Front and rear wheel £100 (minus the tyres)

anything else, txt me, to much to list.
Everythings a bit dusty from lying, all in a good serviceable condition

NO FAIRINGS, NO HEADLIGHTS, NO MIRRORS, NO TANK
Other pics of some bits and bobs

reluctantly selling up first off we have a
57 plate gen 2 fz1 s
1980 miles from new
fsh tax and mot
standard exept for a r+g tail tidy and r+g crash bungs,braided front brake lines
its in new condition not a mark on it
can provide pics
£4900 ono

arrow race can with baffle fully legal with it fitted comes with a custom made link pipe incorperating the exup valve £200

power comander 3 with fitting instructions £150

ventura pack rack with the fitting arms missing 1 nurled fitting bolt but a 6mm bolt will fit £80

chinese short adjustable levers in gold pazzo copys brand new unused£20

tinted double bubble screen done 200 miles no scratches  £20

renthal 16 tooth front sprocket brand new unused £10

supersprox gold with black centre alloy and steel rear sprocket 47 tooth fitted once but never used (needs an extra link with standard front sprocket) £20

yamaha gel comfort front seat used for 1000 miles as new £100

tribo seat rear seat cover stops your pillion sliding around £10

hagon rear shock with spare heavier spring done aprox 1500 miles £150

renthal fat bars with renthal bar ends with adaptors to fit into your risers bars are same colour as gen 2 bars silver £50

r+g lower engine case sliders new unused £20

k+n filter to fit gen 2 fz1 s done 1500 miles £20

all items that require posting prices are plus post at cost

Why commuting by motorcycle is good for everyone.

Quote:Motorcycle riders don’t just save themselves time and money, they do the same for car drivers, and they also help to reduce the emissions of cars.

Anybody got one ?
Thinking of getting an early 1989 or 1990 model as I wanted one in the early nineties but could'nt afford one then.
Anything to look out for other than there thirst for oil ?
Ta, chitsu.

Hi all, new to the site, only been a FZS 600 owner for a short time, 9 months in fact. Bike is a mint Y reg, 10k mileage and no problems up to now.

I have no idea how long the battery has been on the bike and sort of guessed it may be shot after the winter. I charged it up and the bike ran fine but then it went flat again after standing for a fortnight. It was then charged up and I went to the local battery expert shop who has all the testing gear, although I was a bit dubious he was more car expert than bike! He reckons the battery is okay but after riding for 1 mile and doing the ten minute test (starting the bike around 5 /6 times, it would then not turn the starter and I had to jump it?!

I am a bit confused really at how quickly the battery power was lost. My old FZR 1000 would still turn over and start if I didn`t use it for months and could easily start up for numerous times in a ten minute period. Here are my questions I hope I can get answers to.

1, The bike is fitted with a immobiliser, how long would it take for this to drain the battery if not used?
2, If the battery is okay, will it be the generator or how do I know if the regulator/rectifier is also okay?
3, I have heard the charging system on the earlier bikes is not too clever anyway , is this correct?

I would really appreciate any help experienced owners could give. I`ll happily spend money to sort it, just don`t want to get the wrong replacement parts :rolleyes .

I have a small leak coming from the top nut of my left fork and its an expensive part.


I'm therefore on the hunt for a replacement fork.


If anyone is breaking a fazer 1000 then please let me know.

Blue with silver engine. Mint bike, 2300 miles. Stored in heated garage. Will have new MOT. Currently on SORN. A few subtle extras, Yam belly pan, Ivanised, R1 lever mod, GTR risers. Pm for pictures. £4100 ovno

Well my bike passed the mot test this week, in fact I haven't had a bike fail (although I do check them over) unlike cars I've had maybe only 50% to 75% pass rate, the car failed on emissions this time due to exhaust leaking.

What is your pass rate????????

spend some of the evening perusing the content of youtube as usual
came across this little jem !
whatever bike you ride, this is a must watch (not made by me)
PERCEPTION - Reasons NOT to ride...or are there?

Ordered a 25mm jack up kit and just finished fitting it.
Wasn't sure if it was wise to do it after work as I could have buggered it up and left myself without wheels for the morning.
Anyway, all went well with no dramas and I quite enjoyed doing it. Even cleaned and re-greased bolts, bushes and bearings.
Old dog bones centre of hole to centre of hole were 144mm. New ones c2c were 140mm.
Just sitting on the bike, suspension feels a touch firmer (good) but not ridden it yet.


If I'm honest, I'm a little underwhelmed as I can't see any real difference to the profile of the bike and my feet seem to touch the ground to the same degree as before, so can you guys spot the difference?


Before and after shots below (not necessarily in the right order). Didn't replicate camera angle very well though, sorry.

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