Fazer FZS 1000 for sale - 2003 (53 reg) - located in Portsmouth, Hampshire
Very Nice Condition (except for a small dent in the standard exhaust & a very small dent in the tank)
Brakes & chain are good.
Silver, Low mileage - 16,276 miles
Pirelli Angel ST Tyres - the front is fine, the rear is just starting to square off a little. Both have plenty of tread left.
10 months Mot, 5 months Tax
Sensible extras:
Datatool alarm/immobilisor - with 2 fobs
Datatag fitted
Scottoiler with touring reservoir
Belly pan
NWS Hugger
Front mudguard extender
Yamaha Crash bungs
Uprated fork springs
Headlight protectors
New (ish) battery - just over 1 year old
Renthall bars (much more comfortable than the standard ones - they're also available if you really want them)
Very reliable, fast bike - I've tried to describe it as honestly as I can. Only 2 previous owners. HPI clear.
A good deal at only £2350. I'm not looking for a Part Exchange.
Test rides only available with the full asking price (in cash) in my hand, as well as proof that you have insurance to ride the bike (my insurance covers only me).
Just a quicky folks, my mates got a fazer 600 on an '03(I think ) plate, his ignition barrel has gone fubar, anyone know what barrels will fit? Fazer 1000? Tdm? I had assumed it would be a standard issue multi use barrel that fits loads
The Fazer 1000 rack appears stronger than other renntec racks as it is held on by 4 bolts from the grab rails, the ones that seem to fail quickly are those that connect to the two bolt grab rail setups, time will tell in my case though.
So - i wanted to have some LEDs installed in the reflectors and using the topbox as extra brake lights seemed a straight forward idea. Luckily this chap on YouTube gave me the ideas:
The flexible strip LEDs work well for this application.
<< See photos of the LED strips, how they can be cut to length and soldered >>
The top box reflector panels can be removed by undoing the internal screws. This gives you a nice surface to stick on the LED strips, they come with a sticky tape backing so all you have to do is unpeel the back and position where you want. I did 3 rows of LEDs but i could of gone for 4 or 5 rows. The LEDs use such a small current draw you don't need to be concerned with stressing any electric circuit. See the image where i layed out the stips on the topbox. As you can only cut the LED strips at the cut points (about every 5 cm or so) you do have a lot of flexibility with the mounting. I decided to keep the white plastic inserts as i thought it helped reflect the light better, but they can be removed should you wish.
<< see photo of the topbox with the reflector panels removed >>
On each LED strip solder on a length of wire (make it 1m long to give you flexibility) and you'll need to drill some small holes to allow the wires from the strips to be routed into the inside of the topbox lid.
Once the wires are inside you can join them together so that you have a common (single wire) -ve wire and i had two +ve wires as one was for the strips that come on with ignition and the other wire will go to the break light circuit so those LEDs come on with the brake lights.
<< see photo of the topbox with LEDs layed out >>
I drilled a hole in the bottom corner of the box as this is where my 3 wires exited I then used some bullet connectors to let me connect to the wiring on the bike, and allow the topbox to be removed. I wired up the common -ve and ignition +ve to my fuseblock so that circuit goes on with the lights/ignition. I did have to tap a wire into the rear connector for the brake lights, so i had a wire that went +12V when the brake lights came on, this will power my brake lights on the topbox. If you see the photo of the rear of the bike with the panels removed you'll see the connector i went to, just use a multimeter to test each wire from battery -ve to see which goes +12v when you activate the brake lights, then you can tap into that circuit.
<< see the photo of the inside of the topbox lid with the wiring inside, and photo of wiring exiting in the bottom corner >>
I made the hole in the bottom of the box waterproof with a dab of silicon sealant and that's about it. If i was being fancy i would have ran in power for an accessory socket in the topbox, then i could charge the phone on a USB connector or something. I maybe could have also wired up a white LED strip inside the topbox so i can see what's in there when i open the box, this would just be a small strip that comes on with ignition. In the darkness being able to see stuff in the box would be useful.
I've not had any problems with the wires catching etc inside the box, i could have made it neater by using thinner wiring (LEDs drw next to no current so use thin wiring) and heat shrinked all of the wiring to tidy it up more. I did leave a little bit of slack where the wiring goes past the hinge, you'll need some flexibility to allow the lid to open/close. I taped up the wires to protect them more when they move.
I also put some LEDs in the central reflector. I wired mine up so that 2 rows on each side come on with the ignition and one row (each side) and the central reflector come on with the brake light. You could have these wired up to indicators etc etc.
<< see photo of rear of bike, with ignition on, then with the brake lights on >>
I hope this give you some ideas as to what you can do with these little LED strips, i commute all year round on the bike so with the dark evenings coming soon this is a good safety mod in my eyes.
If you change your exhaust headers make sure the restrictor point of the new set is similar in overall opening size to the original set.
The original outlet is: 35mm – 43.5mm diameter externally at its most restricted point.
I’m not sure what the wall thickness is but I reckon it must be somewhere between 1.0mm and 2.00mm, my original pipes are still in good condition and I was loathe to saw them up to find out.
In any event the Motad replacement header system outlet pipe is has a clear open area of 1364sqm. Whereas the original outlet is restricted to somewhere between 962sqm and 1075sqm.
When I fitted the Motad headers the power band almost evaporated and a gas analyser showed it be running far too weak, this being supported by the plug colour.
A further test was done by a lazer temp gauge on the exhaust clamp bracket of both original and new pipes and this showed the exhaust gas temp had risen.
To solve the issue the Motad pipe was sleeved down first to 1075sqm which improved things no end, and finally down to 975sqm, which seems to be better.
Plugs were checked and exhaust gas analysed and the results were as good as I could get them.
However if you don’t get the right back pressure the engine will run too weak and it is possible that you may end up damaging the exhaust valve edges and seats.
The photo below is the restrictor point in the original header set.
As the winter season approaches there will be a flurry of posts about weak batteries and starting trouble. I've been through measuring the voltage at the battery when the bike charges and wasn't really impressed with the results. Here's what i got on my bike:
Voltage at rest 12.56V
Ignition turned on: 12.17V
Ignition on + heated grips full: 11.95V
Bike running @ idle (grips off): 13.0V (rose from 12.3 up to 13 after a minute)
Bike @ 4k RPM: 13.3V
Bike @ 4k RPM + heated grips on full: 12.97V
My voltage should be up to 14V and in the winter i wouldn't really be charging the battery when using the bike. The manual states i should get 14.1V to 14.9V out of the Regulator/Rectifier (with no load on the bike, i.e. lights off etc)
I went through the diagnostics and measured the magneto wire resistance, then the resistance to earth then finally measured the voltage into the RR, i got 11.4VAC on all three lines. This is within spec. I also measured the resistance of the pickup coils and they were within spec as well. So why did i have a low voltage coming from the RR to the battery ?
I then measured the voltage drop from the output of the RR to the battery, we'd be hoping for less than 0.2V ... but i measured 0.8V drop from the +ve output of the RR to the +ve battery terminal. mmm, not ideal. I measured a 0.1V difference on the -ve circuit. A drop on the -ve circuit would suggest a bad earth point on the bike.
This voltage drop is due to the long wire run from the RR back to the battery and the cost cutting on wire thickness by manufactures. A common mod is to run a dedicated wire back to the +ve battery terminal, basically this lets the power out of the RR to get to hte battery without losses in the wiring loom. After i fitted this wire i then remeasured the voltages at the battery and got this:
Voltage @ idle: 13.5V
Bike @ idle, grips on full: 13.8V
Bike @ 4k RPM: 13.9V ** Good - this is with lights on **
Bike @ 4k RPM, grips on full: 13.6V ** Good - with lights and heated grips **
Although i'm not quite getting > 14V out of the RR i am seeing a much small voltage drop when there is load on the system and this should help the battery in the coming cold months as more charge will get to the battery.
I've been running this since May 2012 and all has been well with the better charging voltages ! Let's see how winter goes on the battery.
Note: I also pulled the fuse for the headlights (to take almost all load off the system - i've an 03 Fazer and don't have a headlight switch) and the measured voltage out of the RR was 14.1V, which is just within specification, and the RR is stated as 14.1V to 14.9V with NO LOAD.
Googling around on this shows other owners forums (triumph was one that had lengthy discussion on this). Also the very clever chap that produces the MultiGauge for the fazer discusses fitting a better RR and the voltage drops due to the wiring on the bike. We should upgrade to a more modern MOSFET RR , such as the one fitted to the 2007 R1. Models like the FH012, FH011, FH010 are common.
This is a simple Mod that may help people who have re-occuring battery / charging issues.
<< click on images to view at full resolution, then you can read the notes i added >>
The white plug will have 3 white wires (they carry the AC voltage from the generator) and a Red and Black wires which are the +ve / -ve for the battery. The RR is the black finned item under the left hand side fairing panel. If you kneel down next to the bike, you'll see it by looking up under the fairing infill panel. Warning be careful touching it as it gets hot, don't burn yourself.
By running a new wire from the RED (+ve) output of the RR we get the power back to the battery rather than losing it on it's journey through the default route. Remember to solder any joints, use heate shrink and use a ring connector for the connection to the battery.
What is a fuzeblock ? If you've got a number of accessories on your bike like heated grips, heated jacket, USB power for phones/sat nav, and any auxillary lights or even wiring in a optimate charge lead something like a fuzeblock. You could make one yourself but for a neat simple device that you can take from bike to bike then this is a straightforward bit of kit that has served me well. As each circuit is individually fused i can have one of my accessories fail / go kaput and only that circuit will go rather than everything.
A handy wee feature of the device is the option ot have an always on or switched circuit - and by just changing the fuse position for that circuit you can flip between only on when ignition on, to on all the time. This could be handy if you are charging a phone from the USB socket or something and want it to be on while you are away from the bike.
Nippy Norman in the UK is selling them but they are available from other places as well. There are other similare devices on the market, search around in case you have some specific functionality requirement.
1. Oxford HotGrips - (they are ok, but the rubber grip wears quickly)
2. Heated jacket - (a godsend, can't recommend a heated vests enough)
3. optimate charger lead - (so i can charge the bike by connecting to an external plug and don't need to removed seat)
4. LED lights on hand guard - (a natty little mod, added strip LEDs to the Acerbis Dual Road handguards -http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,1879.msg39316/topicseen.html#msg39316 )
5. USB plugs - (small car USB adapter connected giving me two USB ports. This allows a phone / satnav to be connected / charged)
Without the fuzeblock i'd have several connectors on the battery terminals , so this tidies everything up a little.
[size=1em]I also have a Stebel Nautulus horn, but as that draws ~18 amps i wired it direct to battery as it's too much current to put through the fuseblock. [/size]
The fuse block needs 3 input connections. A positive , negative and a switched live. The positive and negative are direct to the battery, you should put a fused connection in the positive wire.
The trickiest part of this is the switched live. After searching on the forum there is a neat solution as detailed by "nastyandy" in his photos. In the main fusebox by the battery a number of the circuits are switched on when the ignition goes on. We can't directly power anything from these circuits (or rather we shouldn't, as we don't want to add extra current to them) but they allow us to use them as a switched live feed for the fuzeblock as a feed will activate the relay and turn on the positive feed from the battery in the fuzeblock. I don't know the current needed to power and activate a relay but it is in the order of a few milliamps - basically a negigible amount and it won't cause side effects or other problems with the electrical circuits on the bike.
If you look at the thread below see the photos from nastyandy as he shows you how to wire in a switched live wire. This will be the wire that connects to the switched live of your fuzeblock.
*** If you aren't comfortable soldering or doing electrics, this is quite straight forward work. But please do go to a shop like Maplin (Halfords are v. expensive) or go online and buy a selection of wire, connectors, crimps, heat shrink tube, and a solder iron and solder - also a simple multimeter to measure voltage. It might seem expensive but getting more comfortable with electrics is a good skill to build on. Then don't do anything on the bike just sit in your shed/garage/kitchen and practive stripping a wire, soldering wires and soldering connectors and crimping them. It's well worthwhile trying everything out to get the "knack" of using the tools. There are countless videos / guides on YouTube etc showing you how to use the tools and perform wiring tasks ***
[size=1em]You can take a switched live from a variety of places on the bike, but as i mounted the fuzeblock on top of the CDI unit the wire run is small and convenient. The fuzeblock mounts with some sticky pads, i used some that were for sticking on a car numberplate, and it has enough room for the seat to go on. [/size]
[size=1em]When running the wiring to the fuzeblock you'll want some wiring suitable for 20A @ 12v , this may seem excessive but if you run a number of accessories off the device you don't want any voltage drop. Some 10 or 12 AWG wire would be very suitable. [/size]
You are now ready to do that heated grip install, install those extra lights etc. I wired up LED lights to handguards and converted my Oxford heated grips to run off fuseblock rather than straight off battery. Althoguht the grips claim to turn off when the voltage drops i forgot to turn them off a few times and whilst they did turn off, there wasn't enough oomph in the battery for the bike to start after. So to save being stranded the grips now turn off with the ignition.
Here's some photos of my install.
<< click on photo's to zoom in , the text i added is a little smalll unless you view at full resolution >>
