Well I made it home successfully with my new bike!
Brand new tyres (Michelin Pilot Roads still with the chicken strips down the middle!), new rear brake pads and loads of life left on the other consumables.
It even comes with heated grips!
The only bad thing is that if you hold it at 7k revs and then roll the throttle on it doesn't seem to like it, hesitating (and sometimes the revs drop to 6k) before it takes off. Once it does go it moves like a scalded cat! Hopefully nothing a good service won't fix.
It was originally gold but the previous owner had it resprayed white and it's a really good job. Looking at the bar ends and the brake lever it's been down the road but it rides straight. I had a bike that went round right handers like a GP bike and left handers like a shopping trolley so I know what I'm looking for!
Posted by: green_rider - 29-09-12, 12:35 PM - Forum: General
- No Replies
Just a warning to anyone thinking of using brake-lines.co.uk for HEL lines. I ordered from the website on Monday afternoon last week. Fast forward to today (12 days later) and still no sight of them . Only managed to get him on the phone twice, once where I was told they were being made that day, and once to say they had already been.shipped. I broke on Wednesday and went direct to HEL, brilliant service from them! I would recommend avoiding at all costs!
took my 98 fazer for its 1st mot in my ownership,i was expecting a couple of fail items but wen i turned up there was an identical black square eye in for mot already,sadly his failed on bald rear tyre(but not bad for anoter 98 bike with loads of miles(his had 65k) put him in touch with the forum as nice guy so hopefully e join in,then my mot time,passed with flying colours with just a warning on slack chain (did think chain would fail the mot) mot man(alan)was impressed with condition of both the fazers
after chating to him a while i noticed a little villiers engine in his workshop after enquire about it iv managed to get a skotabyke from him(got to collect it as its in loads boxes)its an excelsior bike with villiers engine(98cc) with mad legshields so realy is a cross between a bike and scooter,totally different and a great little project for me so all in all good day for me
i had to see what all the fuss is about re: the R6 mod.
as i'm a skin flint the shock + linkages came from germany at a cost of £68 delivered. some he30 bar was purchased from the bay for £6 and a 12mm drill bit for £7.
i didn't fancy opening out the top mount eye as there doesn't seem to be that much spare metal, so i made some top hat inserts for the frame mount instead. i knocked up some tiebars (they are straight now so can't call them dog bones) with 130mm centres.
initial impression is the spring is sporty firm rather than compliant (my old 525lb sprung shock). i would think anyone less than 14stone would find it very firm.
as for damping, the R6 uses a 20% longer pivot, so the damping curve is in a totally different place for the fazer, however the damper rod will be moving slower on the fazer which bodes well for damping control.
2003 FZS
R1 front end + R6 9.5nm springs
5pw yokes
R6 rear shock
ivans
givi wingrack+top box mount
119l of luggage
£1928 total cost
[size=1.35em]Here's a graph of a Dyno reading for my 2000 SP 600.(2 years ago)[/size]
[size=1.35em]The lower line was from when the bike had a hesitation/stutter issue on harder acceleration/overtaking, so i had the bike in for investigation which ended up as a carb overhaul, but the problem actually turned out to be number 2 carb inlet rubber that had folded in on itself on reassembly after having the cam chain replaced at another bike shop.[/size]
[size=1.35em]Even though i took the bike back several times to the shop, 3 of them rode it and refused to acknowledge that there was a problem, which as you can imagine made my blood boil a bit, but what could i do?[/size]
[size=1.35em]So i took it to PDQ and after taking the carbs off he noticed the offending inlet rubber that had been folded in half by about 10mm and then tightened up, so it was just letting too much air in when a bit of power was needed.[/size]
[size=1.35em]Obviously the upper line on the graph is when everything was sorted.[/size]
[size=1.35em]That turned out to be a very expensive month for me [/size] :'(
[size=1.35em]On this graph i had a Quill unbaffled race can on at the time, with a standard paper air filter, and i have an unknown make of replacement stainless downpipes, although they're probably Delkevic.[/size]
[size=1.35em]I now have an SP Engineering Moto GP end can, which is shorter, and i leave it baffled due to noise and unwanted police attention, and a K&N air filter fitted, and after having the bike Dyno'd again last week it had dropped by about 0.5bhp, which i think is expected anyway due to wear and tear, and age.(the bike, not me [/size] :b )
First (and probably this year's last) Saturday with good weather in ages and I'm stuck at work, I don't want any sympathy just wanted to share my pain.
Let me down, that is.
I hit a bump on the A316 late this evening on my way home from work and instantly, there's no power. Coast to a halt 80 yards from the top of a flyover with three lanes of traffic ignoring the 50 mph limit. Shit. Can't stay here. :eek
Shove the dead weight to the top and then get back on and freewheel down the other side and across the on-ramp. Park in bus stop with sweat pouring off me.
Engine still not interested, though the starter motor is doing it's best.
Dig out toolkit, shove screwdriver in a plug cap, hold it a few millimetres from the cam cover and spin the motor again. Completely sparkless. This bike is going nowhere under it's own power tonight.
Still, can't complain. 14 years, 146 thousand miles and this is the first time it's stranded me with anything other than a puncture.
Call AA. " No, I'm not a member"
Can hear spotty git at the other end of the line salivating as he estimates the commission he'll earn. Joining at the roadside and requiring a 30 mile recovery... and it's now nearly midnight... he starts totting up and I hang up as the figure heads north of £250.
Ring Green Flag instead. Helpful friendly lady comes up with a more sensible figure and says "You could just talk direct to the recovery firm we use in that area"... and gives me the number. :rollin
So, thank you Green Flag, you've earned some affection (but no money). Thank you, Revolution Motorcycles of Southall, £120 is about what a taxi would have cost at that time of night.
It's a working weekend for me, so I can't investigate the bike until Monday. Pretty sure it's not a connector as I've recently tightened them and sprayed with WD40 in preparation for winter. I'm guessing pick-up failure, with the CDI as an each-way bet.
hi for about the 4th time in six months parcel2go have let me down.
thought i would let members know about this so called service.
you book a pick up day and are advised by email you must be in between 8am and 7pm.
as no one came i contacted customer service, via internet as no phone contact available, and basically get told, tough, we are not responsible for courier firm and do you want to rebook for another day, on which they cannot guarantee a pick up.
i asked for refund and was offered a credit and had to insist on a refund which will probably take forever if ever to come
the person was so arrogant and said have a good weekend and cut line
I've just had a problem with my Meta 357T alarm on the bike. Googling seems to suggest it's a common issue as the fob won't arm/disarm the alarm any more. I can use the PIN overide to disarm the bike, and the bike will start. The LED is flashing correctly and i've charged the battery but this hasn't brought the alarm back to life.
So, reading on i saw that many owners remove the alarm unit and join two sets of pins to restore the two circuits the alarm has spliced to prevent starting. This is simpler (?) than restore the splices in the main wiring loom.
Has anyone done this, how did you remove the plug from the alarm body ? It's attached with some small security bolts. Also i think i have the correct bypass pin numbers, but if someone has the pin numbers to short then passing them on would be appreciated. They used to be available online but have been removed at the request from Meta as the alarms are Thatcham approved and i guess having details on how to bypass the immobiliser isn't ideal from their view.
