Any tips for these little bleeders? I've had the heat gun pointed at them, penetrating oil repeatedly, and they still won't release with as much force as I dare. I've snapped a few in the past, a serial balls up by me.

(I've posted this in a few places on Facebook as well, so sorry if some people see this more than once.)

Ok, I've been recommending that people *don't* use Harpic to clean their downpipes because it is not good for stainless steel. (See https://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=30 for example)


But, since I've got an old FZ6 engine in my shed (replaced after the big end failed) and it's got rusty pipes, I've decided I'm going to put my money where my mouth is and see what actually happens.


So the idea is to clean Pipe 1 with Autosol, Pipe 2 with Harpic and leave it on. Pipe 3 with Harpic and wash it off with distilled water and possibly leave Pipe 4 as it is. Then I'll spray them all with a salt water solution (to represent riding on roads in the winter) and leave them for a while to see what happens.


ADDENDUM: To clarify, based on a couple of comments I've received, the idea is to see if they are *more likely* to corrode after the Harpic treatment than with eg Autosol.


Does anyone have any (helpful!) comments on my scientific method? Anything else/ better I could try on Pipe 4 instead of leaving it as a control?


Useful suggestions would be welcomed.

Hi all,
Just wanted to know the best way of removing the chain case cover to get to the front sprocket?

hi all hope you are all well and keeping safeanyone got a boxeye rear wheel with a decent disc on it
thanks guys

Hi, I bought my fzs600 2003 a few months ago with 13,800 miles on the clock, it was running poorly at low speed so I stripped and cleaned the carbs , and it then ran much better. Lately I’ve started having trouble starting from cold , it doesn’t fire straight away on no3 cylinder ( cold exhaust header ), after about 30 seconds of rough running no3 warms up and idles perfectly, and rides perfectly. Has anyone had this sort of fault , I’m tempted to blame the carb idle circuit, but shouldn’t it run poorly  when warmed up too.
Any ideas great fully received.


Cheers Wiz

    Just curious about the header downpipes, I know the exhaust flanges and collars are mild steel but what kind of material are the downpipes?  They are often quoted as "stainless steel", but as I am involved in engineering where we use a lot of stainless material, this stuff seems to be as poor as it can possibly get,  Piss poor in fact!  P.S. Anyone know what the pipe wall thickness of these are?

Hope everyone is doing fine. I found this interesting over the weekend to pass some time and take my thoughts off the grim present situation:


https://test.mensa.no/


P.S: I do believe the test is flawed, because, instead of the results, it keeps showing my shoe size. Could be my browser, or something.

Hi guys!
So, my bike are as follows now.
AIS delete, full system, opened airbox but not the Lars way. When cold it revs nice on idle but warm idle goes south and it hunts so i reckon the map is way rich on idle.
Feels great otherwise, although fuel economy is....well high-ish


You who run from the US map pack, what have you found works the best?
I can add that i can import a PC3 map but when trying to save it as a PCV file program crasches so that not an option. I run stage4 PCV map....not the smoothed one.
And this is already at minus on idle.


Last qs, can one eff up the idle this way on the idle screw? i turned mine but nothing happened. Was thinking that i was on autochoke therefor no difference but when warm its effed....


Any input appreciated!


Regards
Mattias

As above, it looks like riding is gonna be out of the question for some months yet, makes a window of opportunity for some bike work time. Been looking at the Andreani kit for a while as an improvement, along with a fully adjustable rear shock by a n other. Anyone done this on an FZ6 S2 fazer. Ive only been able to find a couple of reviews, and I doont want to have to alter the exisitng forks to make it fit. If I can possibly make the bike the best it can be, Ill keep it, cos I like it. Its that or a Street Triple when the virus dust settles

Hi I’ve got a 2010 S2 in blue but the frame is silver, everything I’ve read about the FZ6 says the frame was black from 2007 when the S2 was launched.


Anyone else got a S2 with silver frame ?