My 04 FZS 1000 for sale. 40k miles, R6 shock, wilburs progressive fork springs, flat bars, bar end mirrors, originals to go with the bike.I'm near Northampton, price is £2k.
So I thought id share my experience with you as an example of necessity is the mother of invention or in truth borne out of a cock up on my part.
I have a fzs600 2001 its really my winter hack bike , done a few oil changes but on my last one just over a year back I messed up and overtightened the sump plug, resulting in some stripped threads as it weeps but no more than weeps oil past the threads, were talking 3-4 teaspoons over 10-14 days so perfectly livaeble with for a winter hack. I had the idea of helicoil but you cant helicoil in situ and if you are taking the sump pan off may as well buy a second hand sump pan with plug from a breaker . So that was my origional option.
Trouble is ,as you know, you cant take the sump off without removing the exhaust, ok if your header bolts are going to play ball.
Mine certainly werent.
Mine had clearly been off once before at least and fought back in the process duly snapping off as was evident by the shortened stumps and motley collection of ugly nuts and studs, so I was not keen to mess with that !
So how else can you do an oil change without draining ?
Well if you take off the cluch cover , underneath the clutch drum are two slots about 9 mm slots around 20mm long, these allow fresh oil put in to drain back into the sump.
If you can lean the bike over the opposite way to the side stand and about the same lean as on the side stand all the oil comes to that side of the bike.
I got a 12v syphon pump for oil and used 8 mm clear pipe and using the two slots fed the pipe into the sump and moved it around as much as you can and syphoned 3.5 litres of old oil out the same as the manual says to put in following oil & filter change , of cousre I changed the filter too.
Its a bit of a pfaff setting the bike up to do it but its a once a year job and just as sucesful as traditional drain , I got the same qty of oil out as I would have, got to live with the origional sump weep but a weep is all it is.
Just thought id show how I overcame my initial idiocy with the origional overtightening.
Taking off the exhaust to change sump pan would have proded the “satan of stud bolts” im certain to shear opening the worse of all jobs to tackle.with rusty weak already stumps of header bolts !
Leave well alone !
Ok, I have my newly powdercoated wheels sitting here, all bearings and seals fitted, just waiting for the discs to go back on, so this is kind of urgent. I need the torque settings for the front and rear disc bolts, I'm not going to just hammer them up like the last guy must have done. Anyone help??
Hi guys, I have just seen the following link on Ebay whilst searching for a replacement EXUP valve as mine is seized to death and wondered does this thing actually work or is it another gimmick?
Has anyone got a couple of those plates that fit into the base of the indicator stem on the inside of the rear mudguard which secure the indicators in place?
In anticipation of my local bike shop making a mess of my front offside calliper trying to get a snapped bleed nipple out. Has anyone got one knocking about they would like to sell? The closer to Stoke the better really so I can drive and pick it up.
Who owns the forum, who started it. I only ask because I am a member of a citroen forum, I don't post there much but its gone off air and I was thinking maybe the owner has met a deadly end with covid or somthing.
Hi all. Some advice please. I’ve recently picked up a 1998 fSZ600 with 24K. What would be your thoughts on this chain? I know the manual says 150 mm max. Also there are two points like the one in the below picture where there is clearly a chain link I was expecting there to be only one. There at two points like the one at the rear sprocket both on the same side of the chain. Is this ok and and I correct to presume that they are the connecting points.
