Morning.  I am venturing back into four cylinder biking for a while.  I've been on BMW's and a Guzzi for the last 15yrs and having just sold my Griso 1200SE the other week I was offered this particularly nice Fazer 1000 and just couldn't turn it down. I ran a modified Kawasaki ZRX1200R alongside the Beemer for a year to keep my 4cylinder hand in and I still have the BMW R1200S in the garage that I usually use for touring but currently doesn't work. (ignition problem)  The fazer is ostensibly to go touring on but at present I'm enjoying thrapping around everywhere on it and taking full advantage of the TomTom go winding roads facility. I'm sure the previous owner would have been on here but I don't know his tag name.  It's utterly immaculate and only has 10k miles on it.  He has done the most amazing job of looking after it.  Maxton rear shock, Ivans 'full monty' and some lovely carbon.  The Guzzi was meant to be a 'forever bike' but ultimately was too uncomfortable.  The Fazer is lush in comparison and I'm looking forward to many miles on it.  I still have hope that i'll be able to get to France/Switzerland later in the year.  I plan to put some Oxford heated grips and a Scotoiler on it in the near future and I already have a new set of Givi monolock rack and a used V46 top box in anticipation of touring but otherwise i'll leave it alone.


IMG_7283 by . ., on Flickr


IMG_7277 by . ., on Flickr


IMG_7276 by . ., on Flickr


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Hi all,


I finally got around to replacing the lamps in the clocks.


I found these on fleabay:


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T5-286-Led-Wh...2749.l2649


Red, amber, green and white available.


I used green for the general illumination and indicators, amber for the fuel, red for oil. All with no issue.


The intensity is fine for the general illumination and perfect for the indicators. The neutral lamp may be a bit on the bright side at night but I'll wait to see how I get on with it. A little rub with some crocus paper on the plastic lens of the LED would probably be sufficient as a diffuser if needed.


A dab of Evo-stick for the rubber strips after assembly.


Jobs a good un! 


Bw

Ok, apologies if this has been done.


As the R6 shock was not an OE fitment (Obviously) on the Fazer 1000, i wondered if it would be a good idea to gather together the Shock settings from the people who have fitted one. Along with weight and riding style.


Mine is as follows (as set up by Devilsyam himself)


Preload - 4th notch up from minimum


Compression - Dont really know, i wound it up 70 clicks from original setting with a 3mm allen key but never came to the end, wound it 60 clicks back from the original setting and never came to the end there either. Is this right???


Weight - 105 Kilos


Riding Style - Quick-ish on the road (there's always someone quicker, but not a great amount of them!).






And as this post fades into the distance with no replies ............................................

So went out for a ride earlier and all was going well but as I pulled up at a petrol station I noticed the bike sounded a little rough. Didn't think much to it and put it down to the fact I've got a new chain and 'silent' sprockets so have been hearing more random noises than usual due to the quoter drive train.
Anyway it started to sound worse and everytime I can to a stop it started to sound more and more 'chuggy' sort of like a twin? But this was only on idle. It would fluctuate between 800-900 to 1200-1300rpm and be really rough. Also started back firing like a twat on every over run or gear change.

Managed to get back to my house and literally as I pulled up outside and put the bike into neutral it cut out, engine light came on and wouldn't restart! Now if I try to start it the whole system goes off and restarts (like the battery has suddenly failed) and just kicks up an error code 46.
I've checked and that indicates an error with the 'vehicle system power supply'

So what do we think the issue is? I've never known a battery to fail like that? Not to affect the engine running etc and certainly not while running?
So am I going to be looking at something more substantial? Something like a rectifier maybe?

[size=1.35em]What is it?[/size]

The FZ1-S & FZ1-N Gen2 Fazer was released in 2006/2007 as the bigger sibling to the FZ6/FZ8 and shared the same design brief, sports bike engine in a cast alloy chassis with the everyday rider in mind when it came to practicalities such as riding position & center stand etc. The engine in the Gen2 is the Fuel injected 2002 R1 engine with some modifications to tame the power delivery and focus more on mid-range and torque. The chassis is heavier and longer than the R1 taming the handling to match the road going bias of the bike. Where the FZ1 loses out to the FZS is comfort and tank range. And for Yamaha, what should have been a masterstroke quickly descended into a bit of a nightmare…

A lot of the parts and information on the FZ8 are either the same or very similar to the FZ1 so will start updating this FAQ to include info for the FZ8.

[size=1.35em]Specification:[/size]

•    Engine: 998cc, 20v, DOHC liquid-cooled inline four
•    Power: 148bhp @ 11,000rpm
•    Torque: 78.2ftlb @ 8000rpm
•    Weight: 200Kg (dry)
•    Seat Height 815mm/32”
•    Wheelbase: 1460
•    Tank size: 18 liters
•    Tyres: 120/70-ZR17 and 190/50-ZR17

[size=1.35em]Which one should I buy?[/size]

•    It’s a fantastic bike but early models (2006/2007) have several issues(see below). A lot if not all of these issues were rectified by Yamaha after 2010. The 2010 models feature an all-black exhaust end can (the previous generations have a silver tip and heat shield.
•    Get up close to the frame and check the main weld seam under the fuel tank. There are have been a lot of reports of cracking on the 2006/2007 model. There was never official recall for this, which is insulting at best or dangerous at worst.
•    Second on the list is if the previous owner has sorted the fuelling. A ECU remap or Power Commander and race pipe is always a good sign and certainly improves the bike’s snatchy throttle response. But on 2010 and above model Yamaha finally fixed the bloody issue. Will need to check if 2010+ owners needed to fit a Power-Commander or not.
•    Be wary of owners who go too far as the FZ1 especially is often modified with new bars (Renthals are popular) tail tidies and cosmetic alterations. If the bike has been changed from standard always check the quality of the workmanship as hacked wiring looms and replacement bars that hit the tank are not ideal!
•    Always inspect the suspension linkages as they are prone to seizing and by now the suspension units themselves will probably be needed a rebuild or refresh, so look for any weeps and check their damping by bouncing the bike up and down.
•    The Yamaha immobilizer system ( YISS ) requires a 'red master’ key to create normal copies and without this master you are potentially looking at a new ECU, lock set & immobiliser. So when buying an FZ1 always check its included in the sale. But should you loose the red master please see the following thread - http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=26347...#msg317975
•    Prices from £2500 at the lower end, but up your budget to £3500 and you should secure a very tidy example of an early generation. The FZ1 and FZ1 Fazer go for roughly the same price and both are plentiful in the used market. If you want a final generation (black exhaust) expect to pay around £4200 to £5000 depending on mileage and condition with late model bikes going for £6500. But at that price point you can get a 2016/2017 Kawasaki Z1000SX, with traction control and LED headlights.•    This model was sold from 2006-2012 so be aware that some some cheeky dealers are trying to palm-off late 2012 models that were registered late as 2015 artificially inflating the price.

[size=1.35em]What should I look out for?[/size]

•  CRACKED FRAME - 2006/2007 models have had reports of cracked main and sub frames. In a nutshell the welds are just failing and Yamaha never issued a recall of any kind for this. If a bike has this issue the sensible decision is to walk away. That said frame can be found online, so you can get the bike cheap and have the skills you could do a frame swap.
•  BAD FUEL MAP - 2006/2007 models of FZ1 and FZ1 Fazer were plagued with a poor throttle response, so much so that Yamaha sneaked a quick update out for 2007 that comprised of a new ECU with an updated fuel map within it. While slightly better, it was far from perfect and it wasn’t until 2010 that they finally got it right.
•  GENERATOR ROTOR FAILURE - 2006/2007 models have had reports of the rotor failing, what seems to cause the rotor to fail is the poor adhesion of the magnet segments, once they start moving this crates imbalance, it's this imbalance that causes the rear bearing (93306-20230) behind the idler sprocket (5VY-15517-00) and the front bearing (93306-20124)to fail. Its precisely because the design of the rotor/magnet on the 2006/2007 was so poor that Yamaha started selling the superseded/update version on the quiet with no announcement what so ever! When what they should have been doing, is issuing a recall on that f*cking part and/or offering free swap for anyone who wanted it. The job only takes a home mechanic 30-45mins to do, let alone a trained mechanic. There are bunch of videos on youtube on howto swap-out the flywheel/rotor. Quality replacement rotors/stator are available from MotoElectrical here.
•  CORRODED HEADERS & nuts  - A common issue with FZ1's is the headers corroding, the studs, nuts and flanges are made of low quality steel which starts rusting the instant the bike roles of the forecourt. So you either find a bike with header nuts arent to bad and replace & coppa-slip them. Or find a bike where the stud/nuts have been replaced with stainless/copper.
•  CHANGING GEAR - from 1st to 2nd, the bike will go into neutral instead of 2nd. This happens below 3k rpm which equates to 20mph and when the engine is upto temp. I have personally test ridden 4x FZ1's, (3x 2007 (22k/15k/36K, 2009/13k). The ONLY fix  that we are aware of is the live with and ride around it.
•  There is the occasional reports of an ignition coil/s dying or regulator/rectifier needing replacing.
•  The riders seat is like a plank of wood, and it’s the first thing most owners replace. This seems to be par for the course with new bikes these days.
•  Less midrange torque/power than the Gen1 FZS, can be mitigates by getting a remap done? (need to confirm with a tuning shop)

[size=1.35em]Things that will brake in a smash.[/size]

•    Just like the gen1 FZS, the sub-frame and headlight wont survive if any part of the front gets a hard enough side impact. And by that I mean the sub-frame (what the headlight & whole front fairing mounts too) gets tweaked so things don't line up perfectly anymore. And some or all of the headlight mounts get snapped off. So like I and other owners did for the gen1 FZS, find and buy some spare - levers, mirrors, indicators, infill panels, a sub-frame, a headlamp. 
•    The front foot-peg bracket its mounted to tabs that are part of the frame, just like the Gen1 FZS. But the tabs on the Gen2 are cast as part of the frame, so if you done have enough side protection(like the guy in the video) and drop the bike on the side hard enough those tabs will get snapped clean off (see this video - youtu.be/W-RILbP8vKU) unlike the steel ones on the Gen1 which would just bend a little if at all. I have smashed 2x Gen1 FZS's and each time the foot-peg brake bent or snapped, the tab welded to the frame was fine in both instances. how ever all modern bikes have cast alloy frames these days 
•    The handle bars look stronger than the ones of the gen1 FZS (which were like chocolate and would just bend into the tank fyi). If hit hard enough and at the right/wrong angle I imagine these will bend also.

[size=1.35em]What upgrades / modifications should I consider?[/size]

Engine / Tuning

Stock ECU remap -

• Make sure tuner knows to keep that the stock diags in-place a
  
• Ask for the cooling fan cut-in temp-point to be reduced reduced (several owners have reported its only cutting in at over 100-104c)
  
• make sure the FC at 5k rpm is addressed/removed, this also commonly know as the fuel cut point in the rpm range
  
• If your going for a full tune you may also want to also get the following items disable in the Ecu - Exhaust valve, O2 sensor & AIS/pair valve - for some of these you will need the appropriate blanking plugs etc - I need to do more research to confirm.
  
• you have your ignition unification setting set to 3rd gear and above, this give you better advance timing in the lower gears.
  
• the tuner should look at the secondary throttle butterfly, so either smooth out the dyno curce or give you more responsive throttle in the lower gears     
  

• If you want to go the extra mile having a PC in-place before you get your ECU re0flash makes the tuners job much easier, asw its a live flash system. This should in theory save you some money - so ask your preferred tuner before you visit/him/her.
  
• Having a PC means you don't need a physical O2 sensor eliminator, you just unplug the sensor and disable it in the PC
  

Fitted 40mm lower pegs . From ebay 40odd quid.  First impressions small pegs, Look a bit weak see how they go ??? have thread locked all screws as not a 100 % on size /fitting ??? Need lower pegs as i have a very bad left knee .And looking for comfort as really struggling at the moment . Off up the dales at 4 thou lol. to hopefully clear pilot jet and try pegs .

Hi . I have a bit of a problem with her . She pops farts and stutters below around 4 thou . Trying this stuff you put in the tank . Going out this morning with a rev ceiling of 4 thou . As i think the pilot jets are dirty so will keep it under 4 as this is where the pilot jet works I THINK ??? Not sure if fuel is past through the jet at higher rpm ??? Looks more likely carb strip . SO while they are to bits would be a good time to fit a jet kit as i have KN in stock air box and an open pipe Scorpian full stainless system with baffles out so would think running quiet weak ??? .
Not sure which way to go Dynojet OR ivans the later cant find UK supplier . Anyone know who sells ivans jet kits ???? dynojet plenty available .Or are there other alternatives  to these . Also will fit stainless allen screws . Get my stainless from a local guy STIG at Darlington who is  very reasonable .
Any help/info appreciated .

Quote:The Motorcycle Action Group wrote to the Transport Secretary, Grant Shapps, last week with a set of three demands.
The three demands

• Specifically recognise and encourage the role of motorcycles and scooters as a socially distanced, congestion busting, and sustainable transport mode for post-COVID transport in all Government transport messaging.
  
• Mandate all local authorities to immediately allow motorcycle and scooter access in all combined bus and cycle routes.
  [li]Mandate all local authorities to immediately provide emergency secure two-wheeler parking facilities that can be used by both motorcyclists and cyclists.[/l][/l][/l][/l]

I have just fitted the R6 Shock (supplied by Devilsyam RIP 2 years ago) to my Gen 1 Fazer 1000. I haven't really had a chance to push on and really test out the new shock, but I may have to do a long trip with the girlfriend and luggage. Does anyone know what I should be setting the Shock to??

Been running Michilin Road 5's for last 1.5 years on my FZ6 S2, they're not bad, lasted well (over 10k). But never really had the confidence to really tip the bike into bends like I used to with my FZS600 on Metz M7RR's. A while ago, I did have confidence hit with a low side spin up when pulling out of a junction in a hurry when the Road 5s were still cold, so it could all just be in my head.

Anyways, the Road 5s nearly worn out now, contemplating going back to Metzeler M7RR or their new M9RR's. Figured they'd be a bit stickier than Road 5's, but still reasonable all rounders for all weathers, even if they likely won't last as long.

What do you have on your FZ6?
What do you prefer on it and why?Anyone tried the M7RR or M9RRs on the FZ6?

(can of worms opened, go!)