My turn to try the head lamp upgrade on a FZS600.  Ordered the units on ebay some time ago (2 x 2.5" HID BI-XENON headlight projectors) and now they have arrived YEAH BABY!

Only opened the box so far but can't wait to install them.

It is now time to change the chain and sprocket on my bike. I have already bought  genuine Yamaha items. I have been quoted £45 for labour by the guy who MOT'd my bike. Is it reasonable?

Hi Everyone
I have a 98 fazer and want to make both headlights to H4s.
How do I change the H1 fitting to H4?
I have already taken the shroud off the h1 side but want to inpove the lights.

Thanks
Kelvin

http://ronsonwriter.com/content/view/69/9/




:eek

Help!!!

I've acquired a Givi Wingrack 2 (no indicators) with a fitting kit for my W reg 2000 FZS 600 - £75 off of Flea-Bay!

It fits perfectly with the exception of the rear indicators fouling the inside of the pannier mounts.

I found a thread that said the 1998 R1 rear indicators have the same mount as the FZS 600 but were about 2cm shorter and that they were going cheap on Busters.  I now can't find this for the life of me since the site move.

Found them, bought them and they're the same length...

Does anyone out there know of any rear indicators that I can fit that have the same mounting type but have a shorter stem?

Cheers

Due to an ongoing back problem, looks like i might need to rise my bars a little.  Going price for a set of risers seems to be around £30 - which seems a lot for a couple of alloy blocks  :'(
Anyone else done this, and what problems did you face regarding cable lengths etc?
thanks
(point to note: i dropped my yoke 12mm down the forks for handling, dont wish to raise this due to large top box on rear.  Just want to rise the bars a bit)

Hello everyone,

Haven't posted on here for a while; now that the bike is away for the winter I am trying to sort an electrical problem which is that the speedo is not working and the rev gauge dies when you go above 10,000 RPM, if I turn the ignition off and immediately back on whilst riding it solves the rev problem however the speedo is consistently not working. All of this has resulted in the head unit fuse actually melting two times.

I found the previous owner fitted a make shift wire connecting both front lights which is a bit suspicious and think this may be related to the current problem.
All other electricals work perfectly fine as far as I am aware.
Can anyone tell me where the earth points are please? I have checked the main one running from the battery down to the engine.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I would much rather sort it myself than ask a garage to do so!!

Many thanks!!!

Will

I hired a 2013 with 2000kms on it recently in Thailand, when the reserve light came on the trip meter was automatically set back to zero - they make R1's but treat the FZ8 rider like a pussy! we can all see when a reserve light comes on then we can choose to do a manual reset!!!-----  great bike , mine was so softly sprung should have done the preload and other settings to firm her up a bit, awesome brakes though!!!!
To be honest I was expecting a bit more grunt, especially in the mid range, perhaps some power commander or the like would be in need.
From a Gen 1 Thou old heavy beast rider.

well guess it was going to happen as pushed the gen 1 to limits of the force

picked up this 09 with a small gearbox issue which took 30 min's to fix yep the return spring was broke
the garage told the previous owner he was looking at £1500 to fix it (yeah right)

he then went out and bought a triumph oh well

all i have done is bin the mirrors and fit a scot oiler and some levers

so wat do i think yep it no fazer bit like a pit bull on a short lead that has seen a cat - fueling on this is ok i recall drillers 06 and this is way different

so time to explore the mods my way should be fun

I put this is the 400 section but this section might be right for what I need


My 400 takes a couple of seconds to start usually and when the weather is cold say below 5-6c it will take longer, colder and I may have to bump it. Once the engine is warmed up and ridden for 5 minutes or so it likes to drop a cylinder and then easily cuts out if I try letting it idle. If I stop and switch the engine off for a couple of minutes then restart it, it will fire up easily and given a bit of a rev it seems to clear it out? It then runs on 4 cylinders and generally doesn't give me any hassle or odd behavior for the rest of the ride.

Does anyone have any idea what could cause this?

I have changed the spark plugs and it seemed better at the time but the problem is my test day with the bike was a bit warmer so I don't think it would have happened anyway.

Cylinder 3 lead looks like it has a split as it joins the top of the caps, could that have anything to do with it? I've been using plenty of WD40 all over the shop to avoid moisture getting to it.

It will do it on a cold morning but hasn't yet done it on the way home from work, I assume due it the weather being a touch warmer by then.

Can anyone help?

How does the lead join into the cap? As the split I mention might just be the lead coming out? Can I just shove it in or?