went to kempton park auto jumble on saturday,mostly british stuff with a little jap bits and peices sneaking in......everything expensive including this 03 600 foxeye,well used with plenty os scrapes and miles,paint showing its age....£1950  :eek .........real value £1000-1200......even the cheap tools were expensive  :lol ...bought two mugs of tea and a bacon butty and came home..... :rolleyes

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Hello.

My 400 takes a couple of seconds to start usually and when the weather is cold say below 5-6c it will take longer, colder and I may have to bump it. Once the engine is warmed up and ridden for 5 minutes or so it likes to drop a cylinder and then easily cuts out if I try letting it idle. If I stop and switch the engine off for a couple of minutes then restart it, it will fire up easily and given a bit of a rev it seems to clear it out? It then runs on 4 cylinders and generally doesn't give me any hassle or odd behavior for the rest of the ride.

Does anyone have any idea what could cause this?

I have changed the spark plugs and it seemed better at the time but the problem is my test day with the bike was a bit warmer so I don't think it would have happened anyway.

Cylinder 3 lead looks like it has a split as it joins the top of the black tube that goes over the top of the spark plugs (Please forgive me for not knowing the name of that... Caps?) Could that have anything to do with it? I've been using plenty of WD40 all over the shop to avoid moisture getting to it.

It will do it on a cold morning but hasn't yet done it on the way home from work, I assume due it the weather being a touch warmer by then.

Can anyone help?

Hi all I've had my black '97 FZ400 for about four months now and is my first big bike.

Iim not asking for anything other than your time !
please look at the facebook link below read some of it , and then if you'd care to join in like the page
and become pink just for the next few weeks 

Thank you 
Mark
https://www.facebook.com/#!/DoEverYthiNgFoundation

I was putting new bolts on my disks as my old ones were getting a bitt tatty.....one of the new ones must have been faulty as it sheared whilst tightening. Any one know the best way to get it out before the Loctite sets

Just replaced the front sprocket to std 16T from 15 which was worn.
The 16 is a Esjot sprocket and it was difficult to get on the shaft. I had top gently tap it on using a 36mm socket to show enough thread to get the nut on to seat it.
No way was it going to go on by hand even after checking for any burs and using a little wd40.
is this other peoples experience with the gen1?

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This is what I am getting is my PC or the site. Either way I do not like it
[smg id=1456 type=preview align=center caption="Fazer Owners Club Unofficial 2013 12 07 23 38 35"]

I have owned an fzs from new since 2005 and wanted to know the difference in handling and performance between a full monty fzs 1000 with dropped forks and r6 shock. and a fully fettled fz1 with all the tuning mods and suspension upgrades. Might be thinking of changing it.... Let the debate begin!

I have a thundercat I am breaking I am not sure if any parts swap over to the fazer
so give me a shout and I will see what I got
I also have my fazer so I can see if any parts match


Yamaha thundercat
.. breaking bike its almost complete just trying to make some space I have frame and swinging arm
rear shock SOLD
rear suspension linkages
engine is complete apart from a cover on the right hand front side, SOLD
radiator SOLD
rear wheel with disc
bottom yolk
  ignition coils
clutch lever and mount
throttle cables
clutch cable
rear light
loads of plastic bits

good fuel tank SOLD
plus loads of other bits
what I don't have fairing
clocks
front wheel or forks as already sold
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