I am looking at selling but cant be bothered taking all the bits off i have put on over the years, the main reason being i know longer have a garage and store the bike which isn't getting out and being used, anyway here is the details as i can best remember, testing the water see if i am pitching at the right price


Thoughts 


FZ1 2008


28000 miles on the clock
Feb 2015 MOT & Tax
full front to back service incl new brake pads & fork oil / seals changed in Feb less than 100 miles since
valves checked at 25000 miles
oil & filter every 3000 miles
Renthal chain & Sprocket 1000 miles ago
new RP3`s less than a 1500 miles on them did a couple of laps round the ring
side facing tyre valves (probably cheapest but best mod on the bike)
Gel seat
wavey discs front & back
braided hoses
AGV leavers
touring screen with adjustable wind deflector
charger for phone etc
belly pan (the best one)
pillion seat cowel (the best one)
Akrapovic exhaust
Ivans fuel jet fitted
Nitron rear shock
heated grips
gear indicator
intergated rear light cluster
tail tidy
R&G crash bungs
R&G chain guard
R&G radiator cover
Gilles rearsets
carbon tank insert
carbon radiator sides
TomTom European sat nav fitted
all the standard bits from above replaced


£3500

Hey guys.. again, looking a bit of advise, I recently changed out my downpipes forstainless ones (due to blow out) but I sheared off one of the studs. The problem at the minute is drilling the stud out is a b*tch, are they hardened steel? Has anyone done this themselves before, if so what type of drill bit did you use? Doing my head in, and I really don't want to have to spend £50 getting it done professionally....

Ventura system to fit FZ1-s for sale NOW SOLD

Full system:
Aero spada bag
Sports bag
L brackets
Sports rack
Pack racks
Grab handles

To buy new nearly £400 Looking for £140 postage paid.

Pics & details to follow.

http://www.ventura-bike.co.uk/order/cart.aspx

Has anyone bunged on individual k&n air filters to the carbs, junking the original air box etc and re-jetted? Does this increase throttle response and power? Is it even worth it on a 95bhp bike? It's been suggested it's not worth stressing a perfectly good engine. Any thoughts?

I need to get some protection for the Mrs FZS600, there is a good chance she is going to drop the bike at a standstill and I want to protect it a bit. He last bike was an ER6 and the bungs were fitted quite high up and when she dropped it there was no damage at all. The FZS mountings look really low! Do I go for engine bars or bungs? Do either of them protect the rest of the bike or only the important bits? Anyone with any experience? Go on don't be shy! Most of us have had the indignity of having to pick a bike up at a junction!

Thought I'd drop in and say hi, just bought the Mrs a cracking FZS600, on a 99 plate with 30k on it, miles are a bit high but it's got FSH and loads of bills to go with it, she's very happy I just need to get the washers to restrict it to 33bhp and some crash bungs or engine bars! Looking forward to having a nose around!

wanted givi mono key top box
what you got going cheap as

As above.

Looking for a decent end can with link pipe preferred.
Something to make it sound a little less wimpy but not stupidly loud please.

Also a standard under tray as mine has a hole in it.

I'd also like some ideas for indicators, something a little less sticky outy than standard but still nice and bright.

All to fit a 2003 fox eye.

Based in Wiltshire, willing to travel or pay postage also.

Thanks

i am wanting a fazer 1000 centre stand for my 2002
thanks dean

(warning: contains gross stupidity)

OK, so in a fit of inattention while I was refitting the battery after taking it out for charging* I managed to briefly connect the battery terminals the wrong way round. Naturally, something went phut and now I have a dead, or at least dormant, bike (a 2000 boxeye 600, for reference). With the battery refitted the not-bloody-stupid way round, turning the ignition on has no effect at all - in fact, there is no circuit between the battery terminals with the ignition key inserted and turned to on. No dashboard lights or LCDs, no fuel pump tick, no nothing (which sort of follows logically from the above, I guess).

All fuses in the fuse box and the big 30A one tested and OK. Battery producing 13.4V

So, any suggestions as to which bits am I most likely to have fried, and how I should test them? Big relay under the left hand side cover next to what I think is the flasher relay? That black box under the toolkit that I've never actually identified? ECU? Something else? I didn't really notice where the phut came from but at a pinch I'd say to the right of the battery compartment somewhere.

* Needed charging because of a separate bit of stupidity, but not a relevant one as far as I can tell

Signed, A. Numpty