![]() |
Exhaust stud removal... - Printable Version +- Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial (https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb) +-- Forum: Bikes, Hints'n'Tips (https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/forumdisplay.php?fid=66) +--- Forum: FZS600 Fazer (https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/forumdisplay.php?fid=78) +--- Thread: Exhaust stud removal... (/showthread.php?tid=68314) |
Exhaust stud removal... - HaVoC - 21-04-14 Hey guys.. again, looking a bit of advise, I recently changed out my downpipes forstainless ones (due to blow out) but I sheared off one of the studs. The problem at the minute is drilling the stud out is a b*tch, are they hardened steel? Has anyone done this themselves before, if so what type of drill bit did you use? Doing my head in, and I really don't want to have to spend £50 getting it done professionally.... Re: Exhaust stud removal... - hightower - 21-04-14 Cobalt drill bit worked for me. Two sizes, not sure what, but pilot hole first. Re: Exhaust stud removal... - Dave48 - 21-04-14 Which one sheared off? I had this happen on the left hand stud on no 3 cylinder. Access was obtained by removing front forks & radiator. The critical part is getting your pilot hole in correct position. Start with a small drill remembering not to go too deep. Then use progressively larger drill sizes. If youre lucky the offending stud(or whats left of it) may unscrew. Failing this you may need to retap hole for new stud. Good luck! Re: Exhaust stud removal... - GosportFazer - 21-04-14 As always when drilling steels, try to keep drill RPMs down, slower the better, but definitely sub 1000 rpm. makes a hell of a diff, and prevents too much heat build up hardening off any surfaces (especially true of stainless steels) Re: Exhaust stud removal... - HaVoC - 21-04-14 It's the no 3 cylinder but the right hand stud so it's right against the frame, the only way to get at it is with a long drill bit and I've only got a 6mm long drill bit... Think I'll be doing a bit of eBaying next month when I'm payed :-( those long cobalt bits aren't cheap! Re: Exhaust stud removal... - tony22 - 21-04-14 Use a punch to get a good centre Mark then use a 3mm hss drill, then open up using a 5mm and retap using an m6 tap. Re: Exhaust stud removal... - HaVoC - 21-04-14 Righto, I'll get those bits ordered up and try again! It's all working again, for the time being, but I don't have great faith with a single stud getting a good even seal... Thanks guys! Re: Exhaust stud removal... - thunderpantz - 21-04-14 Had to do exactly this on mine last week. 2 snapped. Centre punch, pilot, upto 5mm then retapped. As people of said, it's tough going and a long winded process. But it works. Good luck mate Re: Exhaust stud removal... - Sannox - 21-04-14 Also had this, tried every damn thing to get the bugger out, couldn't drill as no bits long enough and it was no. 3 cylinder, inside bolt, ended up cutting down the replacement bolt I got off ebay and welding it onto the old stud, I then had to drill out the collet hole to allow for the weld, bunged a washer on and the nut, sorted and had no problems since, the hardest part was finding someone willing to weld the bolt on. |