Hello!

The reg/rec on my fzs 600 2003 has melted the connectors! It also has been rewired so a standard oem rec/reg wont fit any more.

Few questions!

1. Does the order of the white wires matter when connecting to the reg/rec ?
   
2. Could i just hard wire it with my new reg/rec ?
   
3. If no on number 2, what connector do i need and any advice / tutorial on how to fit the wires into the connector ?
   

Just a wee share. Finished work about half 2 in morning. Went to bike and flat rear,, punctured  :'( . Bit of pulling faces ,, 18 miles to home. Mixture of "A" and "B" roads , couple of junctions and roundabouts. Will it stay on rim  :rolleyes ,, time to try.
  and with a wee wibble and wobble  :lol and trying to go in as straight a line as possible ,, max speed around 25mph , made it home and still on the rim .  . Michelin Pilot 4,,, run flat tyres ,, YEP.

i was expecting this  just not this soon, costs more per mile for ev than petrol -

- https://news.upday.com/uk/electric-car-d...m=referral

And in murica things aren't this expensive yet, but they are catching up with the rest of the western world in that regard.

hey,anyone got an ivans or factorypro jet kit for the fazer thou,and willing to post?cheers

My bike has a Varta 12ah battery on it, although I'm a bit shocked it's 6yrs old, I thought it was more recent than that!

Bike is used at least 5 days a week all year round. I don't trickle charge it, but will give it a manual charge once or twice a year normally when the temperature really drops.

I also have 10w spotlights & heated grips

Battery readings:

Ignition off - 12.77v
Ignition on - H/L on - 12.56v
Ignition on - H/L and S/L on - 12.50v
Ignition on - H/L, S/L & H/G on - 12.30v

Engine on tickover - everything off - 14.37v
Engine revved - everything off - 14.38v
Engine on tickover - H/L on - 12.40v
Engine on tickover - H/L & S/L on - 12.35v
Engine on tickover - H/L, S/L & H/G on - 12.24v
Engine on tickover - H/G on - 14.26v

Engine revved - H/L on - 14.08v
Engine revved - H/L & S/L on 14.07v
Engine revved - H/L, S/L & H/G on - 14.01v
Engine revved - H/G on - 14.31v

Obviously this is my bike, my battery, etc, but the readings are a good guideline if you suspect any battery issues

any difference in power with a k and n fitted

If anyone is looking to upgrade their headlight bulbs to LED, I can highly recommend these as a direct replacement. No heat sink, ballast resistors or any modifications required whatsoever. A bit pricey, but great quality.


https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/product...498d&_ss=r

Can anyone tell me if my shock is standard or if not what it's off? Bike is a 2001 Fazer 1000.
Also don't think my dog bones are original, rough measurement from bolt centres is 130mm.
Don't think this standard length? Been fitted to suit shock or to raise rear end perhaps?


Cheers

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I'm looking at getting  a replacement rear shock, mine has 43,000 miles on it and pogos about over potholes.


After some reading it seems that for road use, performance-wise there isn't much between Hyperpro and Nitron other than the £110 price difference.


Can anyone confirm that the Hyperpro is a good option for a gen2? I've read a lot of good reviews on the Nitron but not much info on Hyperpro.


There's a two-month lead-time on them at the moment but I'm not in a hurry.


edit: can't use R1 shock with satan's adapter because my bike's got ABS.

Rode into work today and went to bike to come home.....flat.


It's been faultless all summer and the issue is clearly to do with the lights being used now it's getting dark at commuting times.


So I'm after advice.


What should the voltage of the battery be:-


1.  When bike is off
1a.  When bike is off (lights on)
2.  When engine ticking over (lights off)
3.  When revved (lights off)
4.  When engine ticking over (lights on)
5.  When revved (lights on)


Once I've an idea of the values I'll go round disconnecting each light to see if it's a bulb pulling too much current. 
I used to leave the light switch to on when I turned the ignition off and this was never an issue.  If I do it now the bike is dead within hours so it's still drawing a current. 


Battery is the original as far as i know. 13k miles.


Or if anybody has any other ideas.