Give us a shout if your interested, I'll knock ebay fee's and postage off if bought by someone on here, in other words £90 delivered.
Cheers

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272398621790?s...1555.l2649

Hi Peeps,

I have a new issue with the bike, with the choke. After I replaced the handlebars the choke lever was a little stiff and only opened halfway. I assumed it was just stretched a bit, as the bars are a little wider, but now have found that it barely moves at all, such that I can't start the bike.

I took off the left hand cluster and tried pulling directly on the choke cable to test it, but it won't budge. I was about to order a replacement cable (easier than lubing) when I thought I'd just check it at the carb end and found that it won't move there, either.

Unfortunately, the Haynes manual doesn't give much info or diagrams about the choke, but I'm pretty sure I understand how it is supposed to move - doesn't look too hard, but I cant move it in any way. Tried with my fingers, then a screwdriver. Soaked it in WD40, left it for a few hours but still no worky.

Any suggestions would be welcome, if it means I don't have to dismantle the lot and clean it all up and reassemble. I've already had so much work to do on the bike this year, I really don't want to have to start pulling it to bits yet again, at least not before next year.  :'(

EDIT: Okay, it's sorted - was jammed solid with crud - sorted with a dismantling and clean up. Unfortunately no option to delete the post.

Hello,


I've only had my little 1999 FZS600 for a few weeks so I'm still getting used to her.


It seems to have an odd gremlin to do with starter, but it doesn't show up all the time. It may be worth mentioning it has a Datatool Duo installed, a type of immobiliser.


So here's what happens:

• I disarm the Datatool
  
• I put the key in the ignition and turn it to on - all the dash lights come up correctly, all lights around the bike work fine.
  
• Kill switch isn't on and the side stand is down.
  
• I'll depress the starter button and there is no response from the bike at all, no clicking, no noise, no starter turning, and crucially the oil light on the dashboard doesn't appear.
  
• No matter how long or how many times I press the button, it will be unresponsive.
  
• I'll turn the ignition off and wait a few minutes and then try again and the starter motor will turn straight away without hesitation and the oil light on dashboard appears while this is all happening.
  

• The bike has always started straight away from cold - this intermittent issue has appeared so far when the bike is warm.
  
• The previous owner mentioned something about sometimes needing to wait for the fuel pump to prime before starting when the bike hasn't been used for long periods, but I don't think this will apply when the bike is warm.
  
• Normally when the engine is running and you press the starter button, you can hear it spin, lights dim and the oil light comes on. Today on the way to work I pressed the button and it didn't do that. This was my indication the problem was showing itself. Sure enough, I got the the bike to work and turned the engine off, and the starter button didn't work. After waiting a few minutes it started working again.
  

So after doing two stints at the Ron Haslem race school Donnington, one dry day then a wet day I got the bug to go faster safer, I am now riding an 09 Fireblade on the road, just been over to the Red Bull ring Austria, 2,500 mile trip, great fun as always and a bike that,s a belter to tour on.
Anyway I kept the Fazer so set it upfor track and 3 of us booked our first track day at Oulton Park.


Wow, about 6 sessions in Novice,about 30 or 40 bikes, started steady,,scared myself on braking and probably speed too but it just got better and better, going very very wel by the last session, fantastic fun, now wait until the next one.







I had taken the home made baffle out and shut the slots a bit and extended it by abot 7 inches and drilled it full of small holes , sound test result was 101 dcb and limit is 102 dcb so happy and allowed on track.
New front pads, lowered,well flipped bars over,removed mirrors,number plate,reset tyre pressures and GO.

Having a clear out lots of bits for sale - if you are interested PM and we can work out the postage costs .

For sale:

Box eye fairing with puig double bubble dark screen  , never dropped ,no cracks or splits, never repaired, currently Matt black base coat so could be painted any colour. £60 + postage - SOLD


Fairing infills - part and right, no cracks or splits ( from box eye fairing) mounting tabs still intact. £25 + Postage (for pair)SOLD

Alloy fairing mirror brackets £10 + postage

Fox eye mirrors in new condition  (good aftermarket copy's ) £10 + Postage

Box eye original mirrors - OK condition with some scuffs at the ends £5 + Postage

Rear caliper brace arm £5 + Postage

Alloy fork caps with orings - good condition ( non adjustable type)£5 + Postage

Levers - clutch and brake from 98 boxeye ( adjustable brake and fixed clutch) £10+ Postage

Clip on bars - size to fit 600 fazer - got them for cafe racer project that never happened £10 + Postage

Pillion handle - later aerodynamic style used on foxeye £10 + postage SOLD

Indicator fairing converter plates - to enable use of smaller indicators with boxeye fairing.£5 + postage

Bar raising brackets with Allen bolts ( gives 30mm raise)£5 + postage

Exhaust end can - original factory fitted - good condition. £15 + postage SOLD

Photos available for all of the bits on request.

Attached Files

  fairing.JPG (Size: 45.08 KB / Downloads: 112)
  infills.JPG (Size: 19.86 KB / Downloads: 110)
  exhaust.JPG (Size: 20.46 KB / Downloads: 113)

http://www.russandrews.com/select-ks6068...739993131/

Wanted FZS 600 clutch push rod  - please PM me if you can help , just can't bring myself to pay £40 plus postage for a new one:-) 

In an effort to improve my bike's handling, new fork springs are on the cards.

I have seen Ohlins springs for £115, has anyone fitted them, and if so are they a good bet?

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, all you FOC-cers


I've had what I thought was the well-documented problem, with my META M357T-V2 (NOT V2-1) internal battery dying.


I've seen all the previous posts plus similar ones from other forums.


Wanting to remove the immobiliser temporarily, I've tried to pin-out the plug(s) with paper clips.
as per photo found elsewhere on here (attached for reference).


The starter motor is now turning over, but the bike is making no attempt to fire.


Seems like the ECU pin-out isn't working.[size=78%]


I've seen on other forums (and our own FZ6) that there are different pin-outs for different bikes - is it possible I've got the wrong 2 connections for mine? 2004 FZS1000 (Mk1) by the way.


Sorry for the urgency but the bike is my only form of transport here at the moment - my other bikes have now been put up for winter and are in fact parked 170 miles away. Oh and I'm booked on a Welsh riding weekend THIS weekend. DOH![/size]

PS - also, I've found a magnet (for a reed switch) which was glued to my seat, and the matching switch fastened inside the frame.
What does this do? I assumed it put the alarm in "service" mode. Coincidentally, the magnet had fallen off the seat but for the time being, I
have taped it to the reed switch, so it thinks the seat is in place.

Thanks, in anticipation. Dave

Attached Files

  P1130446.jpg (Size: 31.84 KB / Downloads: 90)

Went out for a spin on Saturday and did about 100 miles no problem. Fired it up this morning to ride to work and it isn't running on all 4 pots properly. Can smell unburnt fuel when I'm close to the bike but it's still rideable, just hesitating at low revs, ie: below 3000rpm. Any ideas before I start ripping it in pieces!!