Decided to get the Fazer out of hibernation yesterday so lifted the cover that has been keeping it warm and dry over winter only to find a spider had made a nest in there and the whole thing was covered in cobwebs.  Tried to start it and all I got was a couple of turns on the starter then nothing.  Decided that as I'd got to dismantle half of it to clean it I'd do something I'd been meaning to do for about the last 4 years, remove the poxy Datatool Evo alarm which I figured was almost certainly the reason for the non-start.  Other than being a pain with constantly setting itself it would flatten the battery if the bike was left for more than a couple of days so I'd been removing the fuse for it whenever the bike was going to be left for more than a few hours.  Traced some of the wiring and found the back to back connectors but they had to be cut off as whoever had fitted it had Superglued them together.  Then got stuck as I'd got a few more wires going to it that I couldn't trace.  had to get my password reset on here as it's been quite a while since I was last here but the foc-u search did the business with this thread http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,17530...msg203127.  Thanks Freck, with the installation document I was able to restore it to a running state and bin a big plastic box and a load of spurious wiring.  I also found that they actually tell you to Superglue the connectors together!  It's now cleaner than it's ever been since I've owned it.  Just a shame that I spent all of yesterday afternoon and this morning cleaning it and putting it back together that I only had time for a quick run out on it this afternoon to convince myself I'd not forgotten how to ride it.  Hopefully, I'll get a bit more time to actually use it now.

Hey guys,


I just rebuilt my rear caliper (new pistons,  seals and fluid)  the whole job went fine but now it's back on the bike I drags,  not massively bit enough to generate a decent amount of heat on the disc after riding,  any ideas?  The disc is straight I clamped a straight edge to the swing arm right up to the disc and can't see any sign of a wobble, 


I'm stuck with what to do next

As some of you know I have a -2 front sprocket on my bike and as such my fuel economy is shocking (around 80-90miles from a full tank) so I'm looking whether Isles worth changing it out.
I'm looking at a 'track day' AFAM sprocket set which is -1 at the front and +1 at the back so it will keep the same level of acceleration.
What I'm wondering is would that be just as bad or would it improve the mpg?

I caved in today and went on the fazer it was mint only done 1k from new and had never seen the rain. Couldn't stand it no longer it pissed it down for 120 miles. For anyone who knows the route Blacko, Gisburn, Settle, Ribble Head, Caton, Kirkby Lonsdale. On arrival at home the bike was a mess, after cleaning best I could bike in the garage ill check tomorrow.

I have been playing around with my Tutoro oil feed to see if I can get a more even feed across the chain. Hopefully this will also lead to less throw off onto the back wheel, what you reckon?

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When slowing down to give way etc, I notice that my front brakes judder quite badly when the speed gets down to approximately walking speed. Any speed above this they are fine. The pads and discs look okay. I was planning on de glazing the pads.

Any thoughts anyone ?

Has anyone re-painted their engine and managed to get a good colour match?


I notice from previous posts that some have recommended Simoniz Engine Enamel but I have painted a test panel and it doesn't look right to my eyes - too much on the silver spectrum whereas the original is more grey in colour. Hamerite Silver smooth looks a better match, but I'm not sure it will withstand the engine temperature.


I've looked on RS Motorcycle paints and see that they do the correct colour (light yellowish grey), but again am not sure whether it will withstand the high temperatures on the engine block and cylinder head. There is nothing on their website that says it is a high temperature paint.


Any help greatly appreciated.


By the way - this 'project' started off as just an AIS removal job, but decided I had to do something about the state of the engine paint while I was at it....

Ayup chaps, looking for a good condition stainless rad guard.

Drained the old oil today, however the filter does not want to budge AT ALL. Any tips? How important is.changing the filter?
Ive put some wd40 round tye edges to see if that free anything up

Fuel pump is making a long noise when i hit the engine kill switch to start the engine from cold in the morning ? Alot longer than normal? Also the engine sounds a bit more tappy and agricultural than it used to (clutch area) and finally i sometimes get a sewing machine sound when its warming up from the clutch area ?
Ive balanced the carbs recently and about to change the oil and clutch cable as its at the end of its adjustment on the lever end (stiff to pull in as well)
Any thoughts? Cam chain tensioner? Bad cable? Gearbox?! Tbh The clutch and gear box engage fine on the move, quite slick actually... however pulling off from the lights is horrible, i have to almost launch it in higher revs to get it too slip properly? Any lower than 6k and it bogs down and then drops off the engine load (i feel a knock in the lever) and then i barely burble off the line... not sure what the issue is tbh
T