2003, 53 plate Fzs 1000 gen 1. £2400, now £2200.
24392 miles.
Very good clean and tidy condition.
Decent tyres.
I am the 4th owner 3 months Mot, willing to put a new one on.
I have all of the old Mot's and some history.
Genuine Yamaha extras :- hugger, belly pan, crash mushrooms, fender extender.
Beowolf radiator guard. Dark double bubble screen. Devil's Yam frame cover bungs.
Dealer service history at approx 1,6,12,18k miles. Other than that mostly self serviced. I did have the valve clearances checked, carbs balanced and new plugs at 22987 miles last year at Webbs of Lincoln.
About 4k miles ago I replaced the chain and sprockets and also all of the suspension and swinging arm bearings (1 of the suspension bearings had a small amount of play in it, but I replaced the lot while I was at it).
Located in Boston, Lincs.
£2400.
PM me or call/text 07885138618

Available by separate negotiation, to whoever buys the bike in the first instance are a MTC can with link pipe, MRA touring screen, Renthal bars tapped to take original bar end weights and a Givi Monokey 52lt colour matched top box (2 full face helmet size) along with top plate and side arms.

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We've all (well most of us) been around long enough to remember the junk they sold in the 80's-90's what do you think of the latest gear?

Did the carbs remain the same on all Gen 1 1000's UK spec

Hello All,
I would like to buy a louder exhaust can for my FZS600 and I have couple of questions.
1. Is it possible to buy universal exhaust can that will fit different type of bikes, in case I would like to use it on my next bike?
2. Will my bike use more petrol with a custom can? If yes how much more can it be? Currently it does around 43mpg (6.6l\100km)
3. Will it increase it's power?
4. Someone recommended me Delkovic cans. Is the brand any good?
5. Can anyone recommend something decent for around £100? I'm looking for something with a removable baffle. And I don't want it to be too loud. And probably made of steel, not a carbon fibre. Can be aftermarket.

I've recently replaced the wing rack on my bike (altered to fit so the previous owner could use panniers) with a standard rack for just a back box.


As I already had the plate and the box I just ordered the rack and this is what i now have (sorry about the pic in the dark):


[smg id=2961 type=preview align=center caption="20170330 214959"]


and I have one of these:







so I now need just the bits that connect the two. I can't seem to find these for sale separately and want to make sure that when I do buy them I'm buying the right ones.


Can anyone point me somewhere where I can get them?


Cheers,
Ben

https://www.facebook.com/DailyMail/video...617983275/


Not sure if you can se all the video?? if you can think you will agree that lad was really lucky. But what is with the suits???

Anyone bought a set of the short adjustable titax'ish levers from China , any good or a waste of £15 ?

[size=1em]I have listened to what people have said on all sorts of different topics and I hope I have thought about it in a fair and open way, and of course have learned from some of them.[/size]
I have been convinced by different people’s ideas on different subjects and topics.

But just like everyone else, I tend to think that the way I have always done things is the right way, and I know that each and everyone of us is no different, hence all the heated discussion and debates on here and every other forum that you will ever go on, because we all think we are right.

[size=1em]Heated debate is not a bad thing, because just sometimes it manages to find the truth or the right or wrongs on what is being debated.[/size][size=1em]I put forward to you my thoughts on torque settings (Boring! I hear some say) but if you think that, go put the kettle on and read no further.[/size]

[size=1em]But here we go, at the end of this you can say ‘I don’t believe it, or he’s talking like a prat, or ‘what a load of bollocks’ but do not just dismiss stuff because it is not the way you have always done things or thought about things, think about it and weigh up what is being said, if you then decide its not for you then that’s OK, at least you have thought about it.[/size]

[size=1em]You know what? there was a time when pretty much everyone thought that the world was flat and that if you sailed far enough you would fall off the edge, and then someone put forward the notion that in fact they though it was round and that it was not possible to fall off the edge, and the majority said ‘What a prick’  [/size]

[size=1em]I have heard it said that lubricating nuts and bolts will give your false torque settings and it’s possible to over tighten and strip threads, or shear off bolt and screw heads if lubrication is applied.[/size]

[size=1em]Now, if you are winding up a nut and bolt that has lubrication applied, as tight as you think it should go using ordinary spanners relying on just touch or feel, then you may very well shear it off, because the passage of the nut on the bolt will be easy, with little resistance because of lack of friction (metal against metal)[/size]

[size=1em]Now If you apply the same lubricant to the same nut and bolt and tighten it up with a torque wrench to the recommended torque setting for that nut and bolt, your torque wrench will break away at the setting that you have set the torque wrench at, it will not over tighten it, or shear it, the problem comes when people feel that the nut and bolt seemed to tighten up very easily, because of lack of frictional/resistance because of the applied lube, so they then lay on the torque wrench passed the breakaway point and tighten it just a bit more, and maybe just one more tweak for good luck, because they don’t believe their torque wrench.[/size]

[size=1em]20Nm is 20Nm no matter how smooth or rough the passage of the fastener is, it is still 20 Nm.[/size]

[size=1em]In fact you will get a more accurate bite using lube because there is no dry resistance to overcome.      [/size]

[size=1em]If for example you had a small nut and bolt with fine thread that was a bit rusty or a dirty thread and it was meant to tightened up to the torque of say 5 Nm. [/size][size=1em]Because of the rust/grunge resistance of the none free running nut you could be applying 1 Nm to over come the resistance of corrosion or grunge in the threads (the non free running nut), then you will not get an accurate reading and the bolt will not be as tight as it should be, because 20% has stolen from your rotational resistance.[/size]

[size=1em]The way to get a fixing to the right torque is for it to be as free running as it is possible to get it and use a torque wrench. [/size][size=1em]And don’t doubt your torque wrench; trust it.[/size]

[size=1em]Right! where’s that kettle.[/size][size=1em]tommy.[/size]

I know at almost 20k it will need changing soon and I can see some wear but I think its ok for a while yet - what do you think ( apart from the 9mm nut )

Just looked back at my old post and the first time I had the cover off was September 2013, here http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,9882....#msg101656 I promised myself that I would do it more often to check the nut but - my how time flies, but the nut is still ok, I did actually find out that you can see the nut without taking the cover off by looking from underneath which I have done a few times.

Also some bonus photos of the inside of the cover after cleaning






[img height=1000 width=667]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1402.0;attach=28811;image[/img]


An angle shot of the nut for future use on any Nut questions

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Well the time has come to put new rubber on the bike, what do you recommend tyre wise ? Fast road and at weekends and travelling to and from what. Also sad I know but I am a fan of rim tape and/or painted wheels question is should I get the wheels powder coated while I have the wheels off or just put nice fresh rim tape on?