saw an absolutely gorgeous fzs at preston harley davidson car park but never figured who owned it
through me a bit with the mix of parts then started to figure it out
t reg so must have been a boxeye
boxeye tank
fox eye front fairings
USD forks with custom triple trees
uprated brakes with wavy disc on rear
screamed nice nice nice as soon as i saw it
if anyone has any details on it please let me know the modifications below
and even better would be a photo or two to let everyone see this beauty 

I'm after a tinted MRA touring screen, not a Varioscreen , the tall one, or a tinted Yamaha touring screen and a set of original Yamaha crash bungs, must be in excellent nick.
Cheers
Carl

Looking at selling my 2007 ZX10R , thought I'd put up on here to see if there's any interest. High level summary is that its a cracking bike (bloody fast and handles fantastically) but I'm just not getting a chance to use it so would rather free up some cash to go towards doing up the house and see it go to a good home than let it sit for months in the garage!


High level info:
- 2007 plate, D7F (no generator issues on this model)
- circa 25k miles
- Partial service history. Serviced before I bought it at circa 23k miles, I've since done a full standard service (adjustment, oil, oil filter, air filter, coolant, spark plugs, brake fluid etc).
- Black
- Excellent tyres, Michelin Pilot Power 3 with <500miles
- Good chain and sprockets - O.E front, heavy duty gold chain and supersprox rear fitted circa 3k miles ago (when I bought bike)


Modifications are as follows:
- R&G crash protection (crash bungs, rad guard, bobbins, bar end protectors)
- Akrapovic end cans and Power Commander V (circa 165hp at rear wheel). Also have a decat mid pipe to go on I'll throw in which basically turns the exhaust into a race system (most restriction in this model is in the mid pipe with the headers of good quality). All bits needed to run without error message (02 blanking plugs, servo motor removal kit etc.) fitted
- Carbon engine casings/protectors
- Carbon mudguard, chainguard
- Heated grips (Oxford sports)
- Rear seat cowl (pillion seat included)
- Gear indicator
- Nissin brake calipers & braided lines (no fading issues as can happen with standard Tokicos)
- Scottoiler


In this state I'm looking for offers of around low-mid £4ks.


Have also a number of other mods that were fitted that I'd be happy to refit at an agreed cost including:
- Brembo RCS master cylinder and matching clutch perch
- Ohlins shock
- Giles rearsets
- Giles adjustable handlebars
- Giles chain adjusters
- Bagster tank bag
- Carbon ram air covers

Ideal toy for summer - any interested parties please get in touch! Bike located in NW Kent / SE London region.

This topic has been moved to FZS600.

[iurl]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=22647.0[/iurl]

Hi all , I looking for the upper fairing inner sections that fit on the inside of the fairing, one has cracked around the bolt hole on the right hand side, I don't seem to be able to find any anywhere, thanks Arnie.

Now matter how hard I look, them fooking keys allude me .
Why is it when you lose something you go back and check exactly the same place a great number of times, I think I have almost worn the back pockets out on my Kevlar jeans shoving my hand in them, just in case they are hiding in the corner but they never are.


[size=1em]Now I do have a set of (2) old keys, but, the ignition key is badly worn it is not much good as a pattern for getting a key cut from.[/size]

[size=1em]On both of the split rings of the keys (One key does ignition the other key does the seat lock and the fuel tank) are small metal tags about 10mm X 30mm and they both have a number stamped on it, both of them start with the letter 'A' and has 4 digits after it (Digits are different on both keys) Now my question is does anyone know if this is the actual cut key shape or the blank shape.[/size]
[size=1em]My guess (Hope) is that it is the cut key shape and not just the blank as the two blanks look the same and both go right into the ignition barrel but only one will turn, the same situation with the fuel cap lock, but the other key.[/size]
   

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Hi All,

I’m good with mechanical stuff, but rubbish with electrickery.

My bike came with some spotlights as shown in the photo. I soon realised after I had bought the bike that the rectifier/regulator had been fried. I thought this might be due to the high current draw of these lights, so disconnected them and returned the bike to standard.

I’ve recently bought some LED spotlights, which I assume will draw less current.

Can anyone point me to a good ‘How-to’ guide so I can get my head around the best way to wire them? Or perhaps talk me through it?

The spotlights fitted on the bike have their own fuse, but are hard wired into the headlight circuit, The set of LED lights I’ve just bought come with a switch.

When I look on line, it looks like people use the switch to switch a relay? Do I need to get one?

I’m going outside now to remove the old spotlights and get my head around how they are wired.

Thanks,

Brett

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Hi, just bought an 02 fox-eye 600 and doing the TT and Assen MotoGP on it so I'm looking out for a screen that offers a bit more protection than the standard one for those Belgian/Dutch autoroutes, a rack and a decent sized top-box. Northamptonshire/Bucks/Warwicks ideally.

Litteraly never used the choke to start the fazer, ever, it just bogs it down and stalls it if i try and ever  utilize it during startup. Cold mornings sometimes it will start with a touch of the button, or if not just a whiff of throttle imput. Hot days is different As i have to hold the starter down and pump the throttle slightly but it always starts and runs etc...
just wondering why this would be ?

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&...15OnG8S4tg

We need to really ask ourselves if religion has a place in the 21st century