[size=1em]Hi all!
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Since a short while I'm also a proud owner of a Fazer 600 from 2003 with about 25.000 miles on the counter. I bought it from someone who didn't run it for a year or two and during the test ride I only had some issues with the gas not going down the moment I let go of the throttle. Easy I thought, man I was so wrong.
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On my way home I noticed (when it was warm) it would make a loud pumping noise when in neutral. Holding the clutch would make it stop. The day thereafter the fun started when I tried to start it: it ran instantly and then died within a split second. Furthermore it wouldn't show any sign of life afterwards. After waiting a long time and trying to start again it would again show some life and die as soon as it started.
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What did I do then:
[/color][color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]-I cleaned the airfilter
[/color][color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]-changed oil + filter
[/color][color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]-put in new sparkplugs (old ones had the proper coffee brown color)
[/color][color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]-tanked 'premium' gas and added a bottle of carb cleaner[/color]

[size=1em]Afterwards I started it and when it was on for a split second I gave a lot of gas and it stayed alive. Keeping it at 2-3000 rpm it became warm and would run perfect, also in neutral (noise was still there). I drove 100km and put it away. The day after again the issue occurred, I tried to let it start normally without giving a lot of gas straightaway - and failing to do so would also mean it wouldn't give any sign of life during any attempts thereafter.[/size]

So I went on:
-cleaned the carbs (some dirt, not too much)
[color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]-replaced the gas filter
[/color][color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]-reset the cam chain tensioner
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Unfortunately that did not change anything.
[/color][color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]So now every time I try to start it, it starts perfectly, moving up to high (3000-4000) rpm and then dropping fast to 0. Then when I try to start again (with or without gas, with or without choke) it doesn’t start and it sounds as if it is more and more difficult to get around every time I try it. When I put it away for an hour or two the story starts over again.
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Now my question is, any of you got any tips how to pull my fazer out of the rabit hole for good? Thanks![/color]

Do these look like exhaust gaskets?


http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/show...0&format=0

So I did an oil change about 3 weeks ago,  checked online and I think it was meant to take something like 2.8 litres with a filter change, anyway I only put about 2.4 in there and it was already showing half way up the viewing glass. So took her out for a 10 minute ride, come back and waited for it to settle then checked again.... half way up the glass. Next morning same and the next evening after riding to work was all good so didn't put anymore thought into it.

Anyway today I've just been out for a ride for an hour or 2 and the bike felt really vibey, but in a resonating kind of way. Was making my steering damper rattle like mad and I could really feel it through the bars.
So I've given her a once over and everything seems fine but I've just noticed that my oil is not only black already but also fills the looking Glass when the bike is upright!?
Can't see it when it's on the side stand but the moment it's level the window goes completely black?
I've checked the coolant and none of that has gone anywhere, and when I return the bike to the side stand the window is yellow from oil residue so doesn't look like there's anything else in there? 
Normally I would have though condensation but as I said I'd literally just rode it for an hour or 2 so it was well warmed up?
So does anybody have any ideas?
I'm planning on leaving it till tomoz just to make sure but do I need to let some oil out? And if so where the hell did the extra come from?

Is it possible to replace my rear brake disc with the rear wheel still in situ? I don't think the bolts will be hard to get off as they were taken off not long ago to swap a disc which turned out to be slightly warped. Now I have a brand new disc and I just want to unbolt the old one with wheel still on but axle pulled out a bit to allow it to slide off and slide new one in place and bolt it all back up. Is that possible?

Can someone tell me how to remove the side/kick stand switch?


I can get the outter screw off but I cannot get to the inner screw.  It looks like the sump or downpipes are in the way.


Am I missing something? The Haynes manual doesn't mention there to be any issues, it just says 'remove the two screws'

Riding home on Friday I was following a sports car down the M5. A big sports car in the Aston Martin/Jaguar mould. On the back it said Prototype Vehicle and had the logo below on it which I can't quite identify.

Soddit I can't paste an image in. How do I insert a picture from my PC without having to go to the hassle of uploading it to Flickr or whatever?

Morning All,


I recently fitted the R6 shock to my 2003 FZS 600.


I cant seem to get the C Spanner in to adjust the pre-load.  Has anyone else had this problem?  Is there an easy work around?


FYI i was going in from the offside (right hand/ accelerator side) but the larger shock makes it too tight to get the spanner on to the shock and room to adjust.


Any input welcome,


Cheers,


James

anyone got one laying about they don't want...... pm me


thanks


dave

Don't know if this has been mentioned before!
My son bought a 2007 Fz1 last year from a dealer, he has done around 2500 miles on it, he asked me to check chain adjustment, found rear wheel axle nut was not very tight, thought that maybe dealer had not torqued it up correctly, so adjusted chain, wheel felt a little bit stiff to turn, but put this down to the chain being a bit stiff as bike had not been used for a while, lubed chain, couldn't feel any play in bearings so advised him to do about 10 miles then stop and check that everything felt okay.
This he did and then went for a decent ride out, called me later as bike was making noise from rear end, had to be recovered, AA man did a few checks found axle nut loose, ( i had torqued it up 150nm ) also loads of play in wheel bearings.
On inspection i found sprocket carrier bearing had broken up, when wheel was removed found that the long spacer tube between the bearings was missing! and the inner tube that runs inside the needle roller bearing was floating about inside the wheel hub.
Not sure how long tube was lost but as it can slide out through needle roller bearing, maybe during tyre change? We had never had wheel out.
Reason for post is to make people aware that this can happen and axle nut tightens up as normal! Could have had a different ending, as son only noticed noise from rear end as following a tractor for a while with visor up.
Big thanks to Marksman Bearings for sorting out replacements, very helpful company. Had to get missing spacer from Fowlers.

I was changing my rear fender for a new one from Fowlers and I noticed a bolt sticking out the rear bodywork on the LHS. I was horrified to find this unisulated bolt wired direct to the live terminal of the bike! Why the food would someone do this? It was obviously thought about as they had wound a piece of 2.5mm red insulate ire round the live terminal and taped it up. Anyway it's off before it had a chance to short the battery out.  New fender in so the battery has somewhere to sit securely at last. I'm slowly getting the bike back to standard.


The battery was originally wedged in with rags and both terminals were insulated with children's shoe insoles ffs.