Just a heads up. It’s the return of the annual Calstock bike rally and show next weekend. Entertainment starts on the Thursday evening Aug 3rd. Usually have around a dozen bands performing over the weekend. Pay on the gate for camping. Current forecast is for rain :'( ,but can’t sit around waiting for the sun to come out.

I took off the R&G tail tidy off my Fazer 8, that the bike came with, as I wanted more weather protection.


I bought a secondhand Fazer 1000 rear guard, which it the same part numbers as a Fazer 8.


My query is regarding the number plate light, as the one on this guard seems loose. I took a look at it, and there are shouldered screws going through rubber bobbins, presumably for vibration damping, but mine seem very loose. Can anyone confirm whether this is correct and yours will move up and down to the touch?

Hi guys
Tried the tapered broom handle trick,with no results
Anyone used a damper rod removal tool
And any idea what sort of one would be suitable
Cheers
Link to the one I was looking at
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283538565213?...media=COPY

I couldn’t find any posts regarding this filter!
I found it in the fuel intake on the carbs, I’ve only just discovered it after twenty odd years
It had some crud in it! Not a lot, but enough perhaps to cause issues.

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This follows on from my post on cylinders 3&4 not firing. Managed to get those working by replacing the plug caps. Now I have a new problem!

When riding for a bit at high RPM/speed (5-10 mins at 70+ MPH), the bike starts to stutter, which will turn into a misfire if I carry on. Then after a few mins at low RPM/speed the misfire/stutter goes away.

I previouly took off the carbs and cleaned a load of gunk out of the float bowls and jets (didn't touch anything else).

Things I have tried/checked:

• Checked for kinks in tank breathers and fuel line.
  
• New fuel filter - previous one was installed backwards so couldn't see if it was blocked. It wasn't.
  
• New sparks.
  
• New spark caps (NGK straight) - Cut 10mm of the HT leads before installing
  
• New (2nd hand) regulator/rectifier.
  
• Checked coils - primary resistance out by .5 ohm, secondary resistance well in spec.
  

The switchblocks on the handlebar looked tired on my bike, not surprisingly. Found a very similar (and affordable) set on Ali [ https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32899338...1802d1IkEF ]. Recently installed it, and I would like to share my experience, for other owners, who wants to try it.- The connectors aren't the same. I bought new connectors on Ali, very cheap, I needed 2 pin (black coloured), 6 pin and 9 pin "2.8 mm" connector sets (white coloured), usually sold in 5 or 10 pcs in a bag, male and female versions. For example: [ https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10050017...slEGslEGAw ] These connectors are widespread on motorcycles.Using a multimeter and the factory wiring diagram I identified which wire goes where. The chinese swiches wired differently, they joined certain 12V and ground wires, which in theory could be OK, but the wires are thin, so I decided to make the wiring exactly the same as the originals. I had to add 2 extra wires per side, and separate some joined wires. The cluch switch connector must be changed to the new 2 pin black connector, the front brake switch connector remains as it is (I soldered over the crimping, to be honest I soldered over every crimped joints).
- The switch internals are good quality! That was a surprise, for the price. It's true, the Yamaha originals have metal tabs to hold the individual parts inside, but the the switches themselves are plastic. The aftermarked switches are built a little differently inside, no metal tabs, but they seemed good quality, I think they will work for a long time. Time will tell.- The new switches has positioning tabs, like the originals, and fit in the same position on the hadlebar.
- The new left switchblock has no choke lever, but it has a hazard lights button, I liked that, so installed a button on the choke directly on the left carburetor, and deleted the original remote choke lever.- I installed the switches, they work well, the hazard lights are working perfectly with the original flasher relay (bought an electronic one, just in case, but not needed)
GMTY[table][tr][td][/td][td]

Been thinking what would I do faced with one of their demonstrations blocking the road. Wouldn't take the chance on riding through as they all have cameras so I can be done for dangerous driving.


So what about filtering to the front turning the ignition off and taking the keys out and pushing the bike through them then once safely past jump on and off I go. Problem is now they have stopped gluing themselves to the road and instead are slow walking and my plan relys on me being able to push my bike faster than they can walk  :lol 

Took my Fazer 2003 for a drive. Stopped for a few minutes at a parking lot but then it did not start - absolutely nothing happened when I turned the key / pushed the start button. Thought it might be the battery so tried to bump start it but not even the slightest tendency to ignite. Back home I started to check the battery and this is OK (12.5V). Checked the main fuse, also OK. Thought is was the starter relay as there in no 'click' when start button is pushed, so replaced it but still stone dead. Before when it was working, there was always a ticking sound for a few seconds when I turned the key, but this is also gone.

I am out of options now :'( . Anyone who can guide me in the right direction? Thx!
//Mats

So I bought a Fazer today 2001 model, that was apparently kept in very good condition and with all services done on it from professional workshops. However the moment i got on it, i noticed it stutters and bogs down, basically little to no power below 4k rpm ( I guess not so uncommon).
I decided to ride a bit on high rpms until i get home, but then i was met with very violent vibrations. So what could be wrong? The owner told me he recently changed the spar plugs but that was probably triggered by something too, so it either aggreviated the problem or it didnt have any impact.
I would be really glad if you provide me with a list of possible solutions.
The symptoms and noise is very similar to these two videos


https://youtu.be/WFV4m4xzi8o

https://youtu.be/_yywJhcy9x8

Does anyone know the outside diameter of a 98-03 FZS600 exhaust where it fits into the head? I need a new set of headers for my 400 and I'm trying to work out if the 600 ones will fit before buying them. I've seen all the usual 'same bike' and 'same head' stuff and I don't believe it for a second, there are so many subtle differences on that bike and most 600 parts don't seem to fit which is infuriating, and even the Yamaha parts department couldn't tell me.
Please help me before i take a sledgehammer to it