[size=78%]I've had my Fazer for a year - first big bike.. and absolutely love it. Comfortable, reliable, low maintenance, powerful, easy on petrol. But the London Mayor has proposed that, being a pre 2007 (not a Euro-3 bike) it will be subject to Congestion charge and ULEZ charge from next year. So I have been looking around to replace it, but I can't find anything post 2007 that is nearly as good ! MPG drops from 50's to 40's, and power drops even in an 800 like the Fazer 8. Also looking at the Honda CBF600S, the Fazer 8, Suzuki GSF1250SA, and the FZ1.[/size][/size] Anyone made the jump and fancy sharing their thoughts ?[size=78%]
Right, before I go off all half-cocked and break something, how are you actually supposed to release the odd looking clips that hold the rear indicators to the tail piece - It's an FZ1 Fazer by the way, I'm trying to install a pair of Givi racks, which need the indicators moving, without hacking into the factory wiring .....
Cheers
Ian
If anyone is interested I have just listed a genuine Yamaha Bellypan for a fzs1000 fazer 2001-2005 on eBay ref: 183056714150.Thanks for looking.
I also have passenger grab handles in mistral grey listed ref: 183057119256.
I never met my paternal grand father, family arguments etc., but lately have been trying to locate his grave. I know he died in Hammersmith in 1960 but so far have been unable to trace his resting place.
Had my Gen1 Fazer for 18 months now, so today I began the long overdue exhaust refurbishment. (the skanky photos need no explanation ...)
First two attempts with a hand socket wrench only served to shear the studs off. (Disappointing, but kinda expected). Then I decided to try my Impact driver – which I originally thought was a bit too heavy-duty for the 8mm studs. Turns out that each one came off fine, some with nut alone, others with the whole stud. (And I now have a lot more faith in my impact driver, ie, not just for wheel nuts !)
So here’s my question: I have now removed all the flanges, and also the Exup cables, mid-lower mounting, and link pipe/ tailpiece. As far as I can see, there should be nothing left holding the headers in place. Is there some fancy trick to this… they seem rock solid…. Or is it just a question of wiggle, wiggle, & more wiggle. Is there something that I’m missing ?
Was riding home on the M25 yesterday when the dreaded red temperature warning light came on. I stopped at the services and the engine was clearly hot (steaming in the pissing rain), but once it had cooled down I checked the coolant and it was up to level in both the rad and the overflow. I carried on my merry way and was ok for 10 minutes or so before I got the red light of doom again. I didn't want to risk it so I pulled over for recovery.
I need to do some proper diagnosis to try and find the problem. The battery is currently charging from having the indicator on for hours waiting for RAC, but will get it started in daylight when I can and try to find a leak with the engine running. Assuming I'm lucky and it is just a leak from a hose/pipe or radiator (seems that way as I can see some spots of coolant on the engine and the radiator does look a bit haggard), rather than a water pump or head gasket failure, does anyone have a link to a radiator they've bought recently that fits straight out of the box? I saw a few posts a while ago where people had ordered replacement rads but the inlet/outlet pipes didn't line up properly on the bike.
[/size]Yamaha originals at £300.00 are out of budget unfortunately.Thanks in advance,[size=small]
